Winnebago Tour Tips

[Jbmsr]

Originally Posted by Jbmsr

I first considered taping the damage area and driving from Florida to Forest City and having it fixed at the factory. They told me that they would most likely install a corner cover cap over the damaged. I wanted it repaired as if it never happened by someone that truly cared about the quality and longevity of the repair.

First step was to build a scaffold.
Attachment 385790
Then to remove the sealant and detach the complete fiberglass roof from the rail on the passenger side to return it to its original form (flat).
Attachment 385793
Sanded both sides and used fiberglass matting for strength, coated it with resin and clamped it in sections with wood on both sides and clamped it together with c-clamps and allowed it to harden to insure a true flat repair.
Attachment 385795Attachment 385796
Now I had the roof material back to its original form and thickness so I tucked the roof material the length of the coach back into the rail. It had a good original looking bend and I was pleased.
Attachment 385801
I removed the roof material again because I wanted to take an additional step to assure there would be no problems going forward. This took 3 of us moving fast. I mixed the hardener and resin for three feet at a time. (More would harden too fast) I would paint fiberglass resin under the roof material, add additional matting, and paint it again, then the guy behind me would bend and tuck the roof material into the rail, while the guy in front of me would start the bend to assure we didn’t stress the roof material too much. The object was to get the complete roof into place before the extra coat of material hardened. This gave us the original bend with added protection in its original state. Final prep before priming and painting.
Attachment 385800
I used the original Sikkens paint. It took three different colors and a clear coat.
Attachment 385809
Attachment 385803Attachment 385804
I resealed the rail and a week later took a trip up the east coast into very rainy windy weather and all was good and has been good since. It truly looks as if it never happened.

I never want to do it again and I have a new respect for tree limbs.

Jesse

The last picture is out of order.
Jesse

[Robi.1014]

Ditto: Thanks. The Nat.Indoor in Manassas my prove to be the right place for my repairs.

[trower]

Our 2014 Tour has a Whirpool GH7208XRS Microwave. Today, without running the generator, while dry camping we were using it and the inverter shut down. After the inverter reset I watched the Magnum display and it show 12.3 v and 0 amps being used until we started the microwave. It jumped to 125 amps and the voltage sank to 10.8 volts. Yes I said 125 amps. The inverter shut down and reset as before. We always run the microwave at 70% power and it has always worked well. Even now it is working fine. Any thoughts on what is happening?

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by trower

Our 2014 Tour has a Whirpool GH7208XRS Microwave. Today, without running the generator, while dry camping we were using it and the inverter shut down.

This means your batteries are not fully charged. So, when the MW amp surge hits they simply sag the voltage below the setting you have set in your Magnum LVCO.

It could mean a number of things that your batteries are not fully charged.

1. They could be old (one or all of them) and not holding a charge as well as usual.

2. The charger in your inverter charger is having a problem charging your batteries

3. You've not sufficiently recharged them to full power.

The Whirlpool MW probably is a 1500w or more draw and this would cause a very large momentary power draw at start up. Which could pull down your battery voltage quite a lot. Below 11v would surely cause your inverter to drop out due to low voltage.

How old are your batteries? If they are original then they are very likely the reason. Do you have any other large loads on them - A/C or Water Heater, etc. When were they last at FULL charge - 12.8v AT REST.

[trower]

I know the batteries were not at full charge. The 125 amp draw has me concerned and confused.

[toddb]

Originally Posted by trower

I know the batteries were not at full charge. The 125 amp draw has me concerned and confused.

Power (Watts) is I (amps) X E (Volts) P=I*E
1500W / 12 V = 125A draw. So not out of line considering the Inverter is pulling from the batteries to convert to AC for the microwave. At the microwave in 120V AC thats about 12.5A draw.

If you connect to shore power or have the gen set running, Look at Line1 or Line 2 (I forget which one the microwave is wired into) in the power panel when you kick the microwave on, you'll see close to that 12.5A on the line.

[trower]

Good to know. Thanks for the lesson as I was doing the math wrong. I did check my static voltage last evening and saw 12.6 so apparently my solar panels are still not enough for this early in the year.

[boyland]

So on mine there are no rollers on the rear slide bar. I put a camera behind the slide rail to see where it was and we'll there is nothing there. I suspect most are the same. I had made a long extension for the slide lube sprayer to get to the rollers that aren't there. I suppose one could do the same for the front roller

[WatchMeRV]

Originally Posted by boyland

So on mine there are no rollers on the rear slide bar. I put a camera behind the slide rail to see where it was and we'll there is nothing there. I suspect most are the same. I had made a long extension for the slide lube sprayer to get to the rollers that aren't there. I suppose one could do the same for the front roller

Thanks for confirming this. I looked at the Winnebago diagram for the driver side full-wall slide and did not see a roller on the rear inside slide rail and the middle inside slide rail. The only inside slide rail rollers I lubed were on the front inside slide rail (I posted photos of these in an earlier post). I hope this gets rid of that loud squealing noise. If not, I think I may need to make a trip to Forest City for adjustment. I'm really not comfortable adjusting this slide myself. Thanks again.

[WatchMeRV]

Coach Weight - My 2014 42QD weighed 37,660 fully loaded with fuel, water, tools, beverages, food, clothes...except passengers at the Cat Scale. Steer Axle: 13,620 + Drive Axle: 24,040 = 37,660.

Does this seem similar to anyone else weights? I'm pretty sure it included the Tag Axle.

Thanks.

[Jbmsr]

Originally Posted by sbkahn

Coach Weight - My 2014 42QD weighed 37,660 fully loaded with fuel, water, tools, beverages, food, clothes...except passengers at the Cat Scale. Steer Axle: 13,620 + Drive Axle: 24,040 = 37,660.



Does this seem similar to anyone else weights? I'm pretty sure it included the Tag Axle.



Thanks.

I had my coach weighed at Gafney Freighter in 2013 and haven’t been able to find the weight recipe. Called them today and they found the recipe where I paid but it didn’t have the weights recorded.
Sorry, maybe someone else will post soon.
Jesse

[Jbmsr]

Found this

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/winnebago-tour-tips-161008-post5730336.html

Jesse

[WatchMeRV]

Thank Jesse. This helps. Looks like their total weight was 37,960. My coach was 37,660. Not sure if their coach was loaded or not. I'll just re-weigh if no responses.

[Dlowe]

Did anyone figure this out? I have a 2014 Ellipse and the radio controls do not work. Nor do they light up.