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Old 11-09-2020, 02:42 PM   #1
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Winterization Issues - 02 Adventurer

Afternoon kids.... having issues trying to winterize.

Drained everything - including water heater.

Now trying to fill lines with RV antifreeze. The hot water bypass valve - no matter which position I put it in, when I turn on the pump to syphon the AF into the lines, it wants to fill up the water heater tank.

What am I doing wrong? Read destructions several times... and yes, this is my first time ever winterizing an RV....

Any help or guidance would be GREATLY appreciated.
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Old 11-09-2020, 02:53 PM   #2
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ChristoRV-

There's a check valve in the water heater outlet. It's stuck open, allowing antifreeze to go into the heater.

Or, the bypass valve is not operating correctly.

My money is on the check valve.

Short-term, repair or replace the check valve, or cap off the pipe at the outlet, or suck up the $20-$25 in antifreeze to fill the heater. Long-term, replace the bypass and check valves (there's one in the cold-water inlet, too) with a three-valve system.

Some of the Winnies are major pains in the patootie to access the rear of the water heater for plumbing work. Hopefully, yours isn't.
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Old 11-09-2020, 03:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
ChristoRV-

There's a check valve in the water heater outlet. It's stuck open, allowing antifreeze to go into the heater.

Or, the bypass valve is not operating correctly.

My money is on the check valve.

Short-term, repair or replace the check valve, or cap off the pipe at the outlet, or suck up the $20-$25 in antifreeze to fill the heater. Long-term, replace the bypass and check valves (there's one in the cold-water inlet, too) with a three-valve system.

Some of the Winnies are major pains in the patootie to access the rear of the water heater for plumbing work. Hopefully, yours isn't.
On mine, I'd have to pull the tank out to get behind it.

Ok bad check valve. I'll get that replaced.

Should I have the Water Heater drain plug installed when doing the syphoning of AF into the lines???
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Old 11-09-2020, 03:18 PM   #4
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At this point, I guess I could just used compressed air and blow out the lines too...
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Old 11-09-2020, 05:07 PM   #5
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I see that you're still working out the bugs from your new unit.

So, about your hot water heater.
I expect tat your set up is the same as my 2001 32v.
Here goes:
1. If the hot water bypass valve is POINTED to the RIGHT, the hot water tank is isolated from the water system and NO water is supposed to go 'down' the line which leads directly to the tank inlet check valve located at the bottom edge of the tank.

2. The valve for the antifreeze uptake should be pointed DOWN, toward the uptake tube.

When these valves are in this position, the antifreeze being drawn from the uptake tube will BYPASS the hot water tank and be directed to the internal plumbing. (Kitchen Sink, Bath Sink, Shower AND outside spigots located in the plumbing compartment)

Now, About these check valves located in the back of the hot water tank.

These are brass housings that contain a plastic check valve, designed to direct the flow of water in ONE direction only. Both valves are the same, their function is determined by the direction they are installed.
The bottom check valve is installed to allow water to ENTER the tank only. (intake)
The top check valve is installed to allow water to EXIT the tank only. (outlet)

By design, the exit valve is lower than the top of the tank to allow for an air cushion at the top of the tank.

NOTE: The bottom intake valve HAS NOTHING TO DO with the winterization process. Its function is to allow liquid to flow through it, one way, on demand.

SO, if your Bypass Valve is in the "Bypass position" (see above), this bottom check valve will never see any liquid flow.

DO NOT consider changing the bottom check valve UNTIL you determine why the bypass valve is allowing water to get to the tank.
This bypass valve may be broken or malfunctioning in some way. I have NEVER seen one on these valves go bad. Carefully take apart your lines from the bypass valve and check if it is damaged or broken.

Next, about working on the back of the tank.
My unit has a narrow compartment next to the tank housing. I have used the seat of a picnic table and a shop bench to lay on while I slid into the narrow compartment and was able to remove both check valves. A little tight but is able to be done with a little know-how. I recently had a check valve that lost a keeper clip and needed to be replaced. All is working ok now.
Also, about 5 years ago, I removed this tank and installed a new coach heater unit, so I learned by experience how to troubleshoot this tank.

Follow my instructions above and let us know you make out.
Any further questions, please advise.
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Old 11-09-2020, 05:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winnie32v View Post
I see that you're still working out the bugs from your new unit.

So, about your hot water heater.
I expect tat your set up is the same as my 2001 32v.
Here goes:
1. If the hot water bypass valve is POINTED to the RIGHT, the hot water tank is isolated from the water system and NO water is supposed to go 'down' the line which leads directly to the tank inlet check valve located at the bottom edge of the tank.

2. The valve for the antifreeze uptake should be pointed DOWN, toward the uptake tube.

When these valves are in this position, the antifreeze being drawn from the uptake tube will BYPASS the hot water tank and be directed to the internal plumbing. (Kitchen Sink, Bath Sink, Shower AND outside spigots located in the plumbing compartment)

Now, About these check valves located in the back of the hot water tank.

These are brass housings that contain a plastic check valve, designed to direct the flow of water in ONE direction only. Both valves are the same, their function is determined by the direction they are installed.
The bottom check valve is installed to allow water to ENTER the tank only. (intake)
The top check valve is installed to allow water to EXIT the tank only. (outlet)

By design, the exit valve is lower than the top of the tank to allow for an air cushion at the top of the tank.

NOTE: The bottom intake valve HAS NOTHING TO DO with the winterization process. Its function is to allow liquid to flow through it, one way, on demand.

SO, if your Bypass Valve is in the "Bypass position" (see above), this bottom check valve will never see any liquid flow.

DO NOT consider changing the bottom check valve UNTIL you determine why the bypass valve is allowing water to get to the tank.
This bypass valve may be broken or malfunctioning in some way. I have NEVER seen one on these valves go bad. Carefully take apart your lines from the bypass valve and check if it is damaged or broken.

Next, about working on the back of the tank.
My unit has a narrow compartment next to the tank housing. I have used the seat of a picnic table and a shop bench to lay on while I slid into the narrow compartment and was able to remove both check valves. A little tight but is able to be done with a little know-how. I recently had a check valve that lost a keeper clip and needed to be replaced. All is working ok now.
Also, about 5 years ago, I removed this tank and installed a new coach heater unit, so I learned by experience how to troubleshoot this tank.

Follow my instructions above and let us know you make out.
Any further questions, please advise.
Ok,
I will try this again tomorrow... ran out of day and patience today..

Thanks for the detailed instructions... I will be back with a report of another attempt.

I do know that bypass valve works - as this was an odd issue when I de-winterized it... I will explain... when we were setting up to use for two more trips, I had flushed the system etc and I could not get the water tank to provide hot water - it would kick on and then stop, after I replaced those button thermostats and replaced control board, she fired up and got hot but still could not get any hot water to come through any of the spigots - when I checked that bypass valve, it seemed to be turned to normal operation, but once I turned it the other way, everything then worked as expected.... it seems that valve knob pops off and I have NO WAY of knowing how it goes back on and to which setting is correct... I just know it was working internally as it should. So I figured if I turn it the opposite way - that should be bypass. But the pumped sucked up a gallon of AF and put it all into the hot water tank.

Hope this makes things as clear as mud now,.
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Old 11-09-2020, 06:58 PM   #7
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So, try the bypass valve in the other position, should not allow liquid to flow to tank.
Advise...........;
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Old 11-20-2020, 05:23 PM   #8
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So,
I wonder where he ended up with his issue??????????????????????
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Old 11-21-2020, 02:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winnie32v View Post
So,
I wonder where he ended up with his issue??????????????????????
I ended up just blowing out the water lines with air. Bypass valve works, but no matter what position itís in, the antifreeze ended up in the hot water tank. :(
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Old 11-21-2020, 02:40 PM   #10
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I ended up just blowing out the water lines with air. Bypass valve works, but no matter what position it’s in, the antifreeze ended up in the hot water tank. :(
Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!!

Well, if the 2-way valve works the SAME in Both positions, I would conclude that the valve is faulty. Sounds like the handle is turning buy not the actual valve.
Suggest that the fittings be removed from the valve and then replace the valve.
This valve should be a stock item at any RV shop/Store and pretty cheap.

If you blow out your lines, don't forget the toilet valve, outside spigots AND run the pump 'dry' to remove any standing water.

If you do have the opportunity to look at the bypass valve, please let us know what you find.
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Old 11-21-2020, 04:39 PM   #11
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On our '96, I just used compressed air as described in the owner's manual. I'd remove the water heater drain plug, open all the taps, plug in the compressed air to a fitting I made up to go in the city water connection, and blow everything out. I'd drain the fresh water tank too, of course, and pour antifreeze down every drain to fill the traps. Then, dump to get all the fresh water of the black and grey tanks. On our coach, tilt to the right to drain fresh, then to the left to dump black and grey tanks.

This was pretty painless. It gets middlin' cold here. No problems in the spring, ever.

All this took maybe 20 minutes after the first couple of times. Way faster and easier than trying to fill all the lines with RV antifreeze, and no need to flush them to get it out in the spring, either.

Is this not an option for your coach?
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Old 11-21-2020, 07:21 PM   #12
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I believe the guts from the old valve can be replaced with the guts from a new valve without removing the original valve.
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Old 11-22-2020, 03:35 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChristoRV View Post
I ended up just blowing out the water lines with air. Bypass valve works, but no matter what position it’s in, the antifreeze ended up in the hot water tank. :(
I have to ask, there are at least 2 if not 3 valves that need repositioning. Close the inlet, open the bypass and maybe shut the outlet. Did you forget one of them?

If the bypass works as yo stated then check the inlet shut off valve.
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Old 11-22-2020, 03:41 AM   #14
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Yo already did what a lot of do, use air. Now if yo want to save time next year and beyond then install one of these: https://store.lci1.com/flo-integrate...wn-system.html

A Floe system.
Just my .002 worth
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