02 Dutchstar 3872

[Eric Lis]

Hello all, and thx for the welcome to iRV2. I recently purchased a DSRP, and it is my first Pusher. Although not new to RVing, I`m looking for guidance on a few things related to this rig. The unit I bought was on consignment at a dealer in FL. The name dealer will be used. I used an RV tech from a local RV center that prepped my previous RV for the prebuy inspection. Everything worked with the exception of a few LED exterior clearance, and marker lights. The dealer provided a LOF of the eng,and chassis, done by an outside vendor a Ford truck center. Well the oil might have been changed, but the chassis was definitely not lubricated. During this same period of time I opted to have the Transmission serviced, and fuel filters changed. It was sent to a cummins dealer for this. Granted it has a CAT they certainly have changed fuel filters, and serviced Allison Trans before. After I received the coach back, I started to look things over a little closer. I noticed then the zerk fittings that were never greased by the Ford dealer, and a few things from Cummins. Primarily the $800 dollar charge from Cummins where I saw the bill the "Dealer" paid for. I was charged for 6 gallons of Transend where they could have used Dex 3 fluid, and with filter service and refill it only holds 4.75 gallons. Second I was charged for a fuel filter that was clearly never changed. Third I was charged for the filters for Allison service that were clearly never changed. The filter cover bolt heads still have road grime and never were touched. The service advisor was asked about these issues with emails between the dealer I was bcc`d on. Question is do I have recourse on charges for parts, and labor that was never performed?
Next thing is guidance on water leaks on the roof. I was driving back from a trip to New Orleans through a cold front and had some pretty heavy rain most of the way back. A few days later noticed brown stains on the side of coach clearly indicating water leaks. Up on the roof noticed water holding under the Tape that had been previously installed. After pulling the tape back the 40 feet on both sides I saw cracked caulk, rusted screw heads, saturated ply, algae etc. I began the dry out by using a 8 in 1 tool and cleaning out all the butyl tape the length of the seam between the wrapping cap and roof. Also the silicone that was used to seal the 3 sections of side to top wrap along the length of the coach. The tape was a bear to pull off, and left adhesive residue. I have a 1/4 of the coach prepped so far by using a heat gun for adhesive removal, DA sander 120 grit to remove dried caulking, and lacquer thinner for final cleaning. Now for the wood ply to finish drying out, and replacing all the screws. Then the reseal. This is where I need guidance. After all is dried out and cleanly prepped. Do I reseal the wrap ply seam with a good grade of silicone caulk, then retape, and seal tape seam? Or? any help here would be great. Thx for hearing my story.

Eric

["007"]

Welcome to the forum and irv2 Eric.
Here is a Brochure and Owners Guide for your DSDP.
Below in my signature there are links to many others for your Newmar.
In this link you can find build material for your coach and many other items for your year coach, follow instructions.
This info will be found in QT's 1 & 2.
You will find more info on roofs in the 1&2 link below.
As to your other charges should have gone to a Cummins of Freightliner shop, I doubt Ford would even know where all the grease fittings are and your large Trans wholes more than 4 gal plus Transend is expensive but if they flushed all the old out will take quite a bit of fluid.

[Mr_D]

TranSynd is what should be used in the trans. If they only used a few gallons then they didn't do a full exchange and you need to have it redone in a couple years. Hopefully they didn't do a flush on the trans either as Allison says not to do that. When I did the changeover I bought a 5 gal can at the local Allison shop, that was enough to do one change, then a couple years later I did it a second time as per Allisons instructions.
As to the charges for the undone work, well you'll need to work that out with the shop. All of your problems are why I do my own work!! Not sure about FL as we now have a Spartan chassis but their manual gives the grease points. We had a 2000 3865 on FL but I don't remember the manuals any more.
BTW: there is no longer any "approved" Dexron III as GM quit certifying it a few years ago. You are at the mercy of the manufacturer as to it's real formulation.

[Eric Lis]

007, the coach is going to caterpillar when I get home as I`m on the road a lot traveling. The dealer chose to take it to Ford truck for the service as he thought all was being done from the beginning. Yes a complete fluid change is way more then 4.75 gallons but they never dropped the filters. Should have taken it to Caterpillar as they locally put the coach in the air, and give you a walk around. 21 point inspection is included as well.Service mgr was well versed, and also offered tips about fan clutches, belt replacement fact that the waterpump belt needs to be turned inside out to fit over the balancer etc. Great info.

Also the fluid was only exchanged the system wasn`t flushed, and the caterpillar dealer is going to service this and everything else at the same time.


Mr. D all I can go by is Valvoline sells DexIII, and that is what they should have used, unless I specified Transend. Now I have to stay with the synthetic.

Thx for the response fellows now it`s on to the roof!

[PDR John]

For the roof, after everything is dry, I would use 2 different products.

First seal the seam with something like this:

Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant - Dove (Bright White) - Dicor 501LSD-1 - Roof Maintenance & Repair - Camping World

Not with silicon, or anything containing silicon.

After that has dried, cover in 1 long strip of this type of tape:

DiSeal Tape - 4" x 50' Roll - White - Dicor 522TPO-450-1C - Roof Maintenance & Repair - Camping World

[PDR John]

Prep is the key.

Final cleaning with lacquer thinner or acetone, then sealant, let dry.

Clean again with lacquer/acetone, apply tape with a roller to get as much pressure as you can apply to the tape.

[dennis45]

All very good advice but, before you repair the roof seals on the length of the roof, I suggest you dig out the OEM Silicone Sealant from the three curved joints on the roof caps since these tie into the roof.
Dig out and clean these with acetone or suitable cleaner for silicone. Then apply a good Marine Grade RTV Silicone. If they are anything like mine, you will find them ready for resealing. RTV is the OEM product used by Newmar in these joints.

[Eric Lis]

PDR John, I have pulled the tape the entire length of the coach, and begun the prep and got about a 1/4 done had to come back to work for 2 weeks. The coach is under shelter so the length of the coach has 2 weeks to dry out. Everything is pulled out of the seams just prep work to go. I didn`t pull the tape on the front, and rear headers as it seems to be stuck well, and appears to be something of a woven tape not the white rubber tape I pulled front the length of the coach. The lap sealant is what I was looking for as what to use with the tape. I have already bought 2 rolls of the tape.
You mention not to use Silicone? What would you suggest I use for the "as I call it" header joints, and these are the joints that "Dennis4s" mentions. He mentions using a good grade of RTV. Use a Lap sealant and tape it off to prevent sagging? I know these joints will be the biggest PITA to clean out and seal properly. Yes it appears the factory, or someone previous used an clear RTV of some sort.
It also appears I will replace about 95% of the screws with SS. Do you recommend using the finish washers with these as it appears they will hold they sheeting down better? I figure I have about 2 days more prep to go when I get home, and then the application. I only plan to do this once, and am pretty picky about my work. I figure 12 tubes of lap sealant will work? what do you think need to get it ordered as sale ends soon.

Thx for the input guys

Eric

[PDR John]

I say don't use silicon, because nothing will stick to it. So if you cover it with the tape, you give the tape a place to start lifting.

Most of the RV roof sealants sold have no silicon in them.

I would do the taping to prevent sagging of lap sealants.

Using finishing washers will help spread the clamping load, I would use them.

[dennis45]

I don't know if there are many choices as far as the curved joints are concerned. Newmar uses RTV on almost every joint.

[Kurtsara]

Originally Posted by Eric Lis

Hello all, and thx for the welcome to iRV2. I recently purchased a DSRP, and it is my first Pusher. Although not new to RVing, I`m looking for guidance on a few things related to this rig. The unit I bought was on consignment at a dealer in FL. The name dealer will be used. I used an RV tech from a local RV center that prepped my previous RV for the prebuy inspection. Everything worked with the exception of a few LED exterior clearance, and marker lights. The dealer provided a LOF of the eng,and chassis, done by an outside vendor a Ford truck center. Well the oil might have been changed, but the chassis was definitely not lubricated. During this same period of time I opted to have the Transmission serviced, and fuel filters changed. It was sent to a cummins dealer for this. Granted it has a CAT they certainly have changed fuel filters, and serviced Allison Trans before. After I received the coach back, I started to look things over a little closer. I noticed then the zerk fittings that were never greased by the Ford dealer, and a few things from Cummins. Primarily the $800 dollar charge from Cummins where I saw the bill the "Dealer" paid for. I was charged for 6 gallons of Transend where they could have used Dex 3 fluid, and with filter service and refill it only holds 4.75 gallons. Second I was charged for a fuel filter that was clearly never changed. Third I was charged for the filters for Allison service that were clearly never changed. The filter cover bolt heads still have road grime and never were touched. The service advisor was asked about these issues with emails between the dealer I was bcc`d on. Question is do I have recourse on charges for parts, and labor that was never performed?
Next thing is guidance on water leaks on the roof. I was driving back from a trip to New Orleans through a cold front and had some pretty heavy rain most of the way back. A few days later noticed brown stains on the side of coach clearly indicating water leaks. Up on the roof noticed water holding under the Tape that had been previously installed. After pulling the tape back the 40 feet on both sides I saw cracked caulk, rusted screw heads, saturated ply, algae etc. I began the dry out by using a 8 in 1 tool and cleaning out all the butyl tape the length of the seam between the wrapping cap and roof. Also the silicone that was used to seal the 3 sections of side to top wrap along the length of the coach. The tape was a bear to pull off, and left adhesive residue. I have a 1/4 of the coach prepped so far by using a heat gun for adhesive removal, DA sander 120 grit to remove dried caulking, and lacquer thinner for final cleaning. Now for the wood ply to finish drying out, and replacing all the screws. Then the reseal. This is where I need guidance. After all is dried out and cleanly prepped. Do I reseal the wrap ply seam with a good grade of silicone caulk, then retape, and seal tape seam? Or? any help here would be great. Thx for hearing my story.

Eric

What dealer is it, spread the word?

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by Eric Lis

Mr. D all I can go by is Valvoline sells DexIII, and that is what they should have used, unless I specified Transend. Now I have to stay with the synthetic.

Thx for the response fellows now it`s on to the roof!

They can sell anyting they want as Dexron III now. As I said earlier, GM no longer licenses it nor tests it so you're at the mercy of the manufacturer. It still might be the exact same formula approved by GM or it might not be.

BTW, to fully change from Dexron to TranSynd you have to do two full fluid and filter changes. Do one full change then a couple years later do the second (that's what I did). The gentleman the wrote the TranSynd specs posts on the forum and he states that also.

[Eric Lis]

Originally Posted by Kurtsara

What dealer is it, spread the word?

Cummins Power South Hillsborough Ave Tampa.

[Eric Lis]

Originally Posted by Mr_D

They can sell anyting they want as Dexron III now. As I said earlier, GM no longer licenses it nor tests it so you're at the mercy of the manufacturer. It still might be the exact same formula approved by GM or it might not be.

BTW, to fully change from Dexron to TranSynd you have to do two full fluid and filter changes. Do one full change then a couple years later do the second (that's what I did). The gentleman the wrote the TranSynd specs posts on the forum and he states that also.

Mr D, not doubting what should, and subsequently will be done. I was just stating that DexIII is still available whether it has the GM stamp or not? At the time of the change it wasn`t specified to change to Transend. Cummins responses at this time are not very forthcoming. Secondly me as a consumer, and if I didn`t know any better Cummins at the least should have asked before assuming. The reason the questioning about quality of service began was I noticed a more firm downshift which equates to line pressure on the clutch packs. The question now is whether there has been any damage done, or it`s a simple proper service? After all the dust settles! I will be hands on, or REAL close by when anything is done to this coach from now on. The stories I read about with all the commercial "big chassis" centers has come to truth, and it is sad! I spoke personally with the Shop foreman/manager at the CAT "Ringpower" facility in Gibsonton, FL., and felt as though we are on the same page. I will be allowed to observe the service, and question. That in itself is a big plus.