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Old 09-07-2015, 06:40 PM   #1
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02 MADP drivers power window leak

This weekend I discovered that I have a small leak around the drivers window. The outer wiper is in need of replacement ad it is curling out most likely allowing more water in than usual. Ordered a replacement for that but even that should not allow water to leak inside.
There was a nice diagram on comnet of the window. There is a pan under the window frame at floor level that catches any leaking water and drains out in front of the tire.

Here is what got me looking, there was a growth pushing up my vinyl tile and out the edge.
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I removed the tile and it seemed to be limited to the lower edge of the wall. So cleaned that up and put some bleach on to kill the mold.
Next up was to remove the console panel to check out the window frame and pan.
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Here is the drain hole towards the front and the exit point underneath. It seemed to be clear and not clogged.
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And signs that there may have been a problem in the past with the pan. Lots of caulk and some Eternabond to try and repair.
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So now I need to size up the situation more and determine the best path to repair. I am leaning towards pulling out the window and fabricating an aluminum pan. The current pan is thin plastic and apparently has failed.



Steve
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:57 PM   #2
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Today we had some rain and with the outer wiper taped up no water came inside. All seems to be dry.
But I am still worried about the condition of the drip pan and floor directly under the window. So decided to take the rubber molding off the outside of the window to access the screws so the window can be removed and everything fixed properly.
Did not take much to remove the rubber strips.

And there had been some leakage behind it rusting the lower screws. Those will need replaced.

The rubber trim is held in place with an adhesive 3M 4799 I think.
And there was a strip of tape sealing the edge. I cannot find any information on what this tape may have been. It is not Butyl tape. Seems more like the adhesive on Eternabond tape.

With the trim removed these screws need removed to remove the window.

And the interior screws.


I may try to call Newmar tomorrow on the tape and adhesive. Need to make sure I have all the supplies on hand before pulling the window.
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Old 09-09-2015, 06:16 PM   #3
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As I remember Newmar had leaking troubles with that power window. Don't know now what the fix was but I'm glad I didn't order it in our '02 DSDP.
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Old 09-09-2015, 06:22 PM   #4
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Yea, I found a few post from others but not much information to go on. Once I yank the window out it should be easy to fix.
For the most part the system does not look bad. I suspect the cheap plastic drip pan may have some cracks and the drain hole should have a tube through the floor.


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Old 09-10-2015, 11:54 AM   #5
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Another thread for your old coach maintenance section.---- QT's # 3
There was some info at one time in COM_NET but cannot find it.
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:41 PM   #6
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Not directly related to the leak and window repair. But while I had the side console off and waiting on my supplies.
Decided to dress up the switch panel. I did not like that the mirror defrost switch was not marked so decided to make a new switch panel.
Here is the old panel. 3/16 polycarbonate, back painted black and back engraved with white paint filling in letters.
Simple to replicate.
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And with a sketch of original it is reverse engineered and ready to cut on the CNC.
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:15 PM   #7
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Took some material to work so I could shear and make the bends. Much easier with the right equipment.
Just need to weld the corners and add a drain tube. Will wait till the window is out to check the fit and make sure drain is located correctly. Once installed I do not expect to ever see problems with the pan leaking.
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Old 09-14-2015, 07:43 PM   #8
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Tonight I finally got started with the window removal.
First check out existing seals.
Butyl tape and a bead of caulk on top. There are 2 places where the butyl was used. Between the coach wall and the outer frame and between the outer and inner frame of the window. Removed all the outer screws attaching the 2 frames and the screws holding inner frame to walls.
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Then start gently prying and working it apart.
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Had to cut the wires for the power window. But first be sure to roll the window down. Needs to be down to change the wiper seal that was the main source of water intrusion.
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Ands now fully remove the window. As you can see this was done without removal of the seat. There was plenty of room to access everything.
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With the window out I can see that there is some punky spots on the floor. It is mostly dried out and appears to have been there for a while. The new sub-floor a PO installed for the vinyl tile is still in good shape. The drain hole also shows signs of water getting into the floor. Since our coach is parked on a slight grade most of the recent water leaking was towards the back of the window.
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And now the point of failure. The original drip pan. This pan was a mistake in their design. Material is too thin and tightly fitting. The constant movement cracked all the corners. The PO tried to caulk and put Eternabond on it but without fully removing the window you are just putting a leaky bandaid on it. The drain tube attachment is also poorly executed as 2 small screws and some butyl was used this leaked also.
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And now for the replacement pan. .040 aluminum welded corners and a welded drain.
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Old 09-14-2015, 07:51 PM   #9
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While the window is out need to replace the wiper seal. This is in need of replacement as more than the usual amount of water is leaking past the seal.
You can see how it is warped out away from the window.
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This seal is held in place with screws on the inside of the window frame. Removal of the window and one of the cross extrusions is required to access the screws. There are 2 screws on each end that hold the cross extrusion in place.
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The old seal did not have any of the felt flocking on it. Not sure if it did originally or not.
Here is the old and new.
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One end requires trimming to fit. I left a small overlap as the original was this way also.
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Next up will be cleaning all the old caulk off of the surfaces. Dry out and treat the punky floor.
I think I still have some CPES to seal it up.



Steve
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Old 09-15-2015, 07:20 PM   #10
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I found on our Essex that by putting a strip of the coarse side of Velcro on the wiper of the window glass on the outside the water no long leaked down the inside of the window frame. The rubber was not sealing close to the glass and this 1/2 inch Velcro made a tight fit.
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Old 09-16-2015, 06:55 PM   #11
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Finally put the window back in place. Would have started yesterday but wanted to run some fans on the damp area to finish drying it out.
Added a small extension to the drain to insure water is fully out of the coach.
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And here it is installed.
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The original outer frame had butyl tape between the 2 frames and a foam tape on the outer seal to the coach wall. I put butyl on both places. 1/2" wide 1/16" thick black. I put the tape on the outer frame then put it in place. With the screws tightened I had just a small squeeze out letting me know there was a good seal. Then I caulked the sides and top with DAP 230. It dries clear
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And with the new wiper seal I have a good seal against the window.
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Now just need to finish up the outer trim which I am having trouble locating new. I may need to just call Newmar and see if they have it. They do not seem to respond to emails.

Then put the inside trim back together. But I want to do a water test before closing it back up.



Steve
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Old 09-18-2015, 08:31 PM   #12
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Called Newmar today and with Derek's help I now have some new trim rubber for the outside.
Part number 96448 Screw Cover Pwr Wind. 3.88 per foot. Looks like it comes with the tape pre-applied on the one edge. So just the 3799 adhesive on the other edge.

Also tonight I did a water test to check for leaks. I tried to mimic a heavy rain for a few minutes with the hose.
I was really surprised at how much water makes it through to the drip pan. With the test I ended up with about 1/2 cup in the drip pan. My coach is parked on a slight grade with the drain tube on the uphill side. So any water making it in will not drain fully until the coach is moved or it evaporates. I am glad to say that the new pan is holding the water fine and none is leaking out. I am going to replace the plastic sheeting on the inside of the window frame though. This is a must to keep the water draining towards the drip pan.


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Old 09-22-2015, 06:03 PM   #13
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Put the finishing touches on the window yesterday. I received the new rubber trim from Newmar but unfortunately it was not the same.
Old molding vs new
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So decided to clean up the old.
Took some work and acetone but it looked almost new when finished.
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Applied new VHB tape on the one edge. And now ready to install
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I had to stretch it slightly but the tape held it tight in position.
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The lower edge around the screws has 3m 4799 adhesive to hold and seal it in place.
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Here is a shot showing the corner and the screws that are covered with the molding.
It also puts another layer over the frame halves.
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Steve
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:33 PM   #14
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Great pics and writeup, Spk64. Thanks. Excellent work. I'll be checking mine tomorrow morning.
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