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Old 05-13-2023, 01:33 PM   #1
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'08 DS 4023 slide lock arm proximity switch+

I have a broken slide out lock arm proximity switch. The screw in the (paddle?) that signals to it appears to have cracked it in its middle and also broken off a mounting tab.
(1) I need a proximity switch part number, please, hopefully one available less expensively from Amazon or eBay instead of from Newmar.
(2) Is there a 'best method' to replace this switch? The actuator I've just replaced is the hardest one on the coach to reach. It's on the end of kitchen slide that has extra depth. It's a full arm reach, and for only one arm. The proximity switch appears to be inaccessible from the inside. While I was able to replace the actuator through the cabinet, I'm thinking that replacing the proximity switch with the slide extending will be the easiest. I will have no problem running out the slide, as I have figured how to hotwire the actuators to be either in and out, and also how to hotwire (bypass) the proximity switch.
(3) The "signalling" screw has a notable bend in its middle. It looks as if the bend is actually a "factory" bend. Is this true? Are there instructions for setting this screw -correctly- and hopefully in a way that won't end up breaking the new proximity switch.
Thanks!!
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Old 05-13-2023, 02:13 PM   #2
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If you were just replacing the lock arm actuator, you ended up breaking the prox switch as you were manipulating all the bits back into place. I did the same on my MA. I had to pull the paddle box in order to replace the prox switch, and then the wires had to be connected in the actuator box from the inside. also tape or tie wrap the wires out of the actuator. The "bend" is a factory adjustment and most likely is not your issue.
Like you assumed, it is best to do this after you extend the slide from the outside the vehicle.
Good Luck!

PS, I could not find that prox switch anywhere but Newmar, it was $79.00
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Old 05-13-2023, 02:41 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply. However, I feel that it's different then you're suggesting. The paddle with the proximity-signalling screw is held solidly in place on one side by the paddle's hinge, and it's limited in closing (and approaching the proximity switch) by the paddle bottoming out in its pocket. The proximity switch is...as best I can tell with the moderate visibility of it that I have at the moment...attached solidly to its mount, and seemingly without adjustment. But until I can get closer to it and see it better, I cannot be completely certain about the mounting. With what I've seen and worked on so far, which is a pretty good bit, I feel that the actuator wouldn't change either of these pieces.
Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2023, 02:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HECthe2 View Post
Thanks for the reply. However, I feel that it's different then you're suggesting. The paddle with the proximity-signalling screw is held solidly in place on one side by the paddle's hinge, and it's limited in closing (and approaching the proximity switch) by the paddle bottoming out in its pocket. The proximity switch is...as best I can tell with the moderate visibility of it that I have at the moment...attached solidly to its mount, and seemingly without adjustment. But until I can get closer to it and see it better, I cannot be completely certain about the mounting. With what I've seen and worked on so far, which is a pretty good bit, I feel that the actuator wouldn't change either of these pieces.
Thanks!


Correction: It WAS solidly mounted until the mounting tab broke, and the center of the switch crsked in the middle and caved in, LOL!
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Old 05-13-2023, 02:51 PM   #5
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STRich, I hope I didn’t sound rude in my reply. Your info is much appreciated. Thanks
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Old 05-13-2023, 04:22 PM   #6
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No offence taken. It is hard to paint the picture of all these mechanical bits.
Good luck and if you find an alternate source for those switches, please post a link.
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