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Old 12-30-2012, 05:28 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbaron73

Do you have the auto-spool for your power cord? I have not seen a close up shot of what kind of space there is, but you will find where the end of the shore cord connects to the coach wiring. Usually there is an electrical gang box that has the connection. What I did on my Fleetwood was remove that box, and replace it with the EMS-HW50C. had to do it twice because for some unknown reason I didn't pay attention to which was load and which was line, and installed it upside down.

I got the version with the remote display and routed the cord in the bay to a place that was easier to see when hooking up. I don't know why I would ever want it inside the coach.
I do not have the auto spool but do have a Progressive PD52 gang box that I would like to remove. If it can be replaced with the HW50c, that solves the space problem.

Planning to be at the Tampa show in January to get some more information and hope to buy it there with show pricing.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:06 PM   #30
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It would have to be in front of that box as that is the transfer switch between shore and generator.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:33 PM   #31
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Quote:
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Thanks! The Progressive EMS-HW50C is what I am planning to install, but I need to find room for it.
Had Surge Guard 34560 50 amp surge protector on our 2011 All Electric Ventana. It worked fine and definitely took up less space than the Progressive models -- one of the reasons we went with it then. But the thing I learned in researching this time around (when we were less rushed in our decision) is that the Progressive LCHW50 has Lifetime Warranty v. 1 year Warranty on Surge Guard and the Progressive has a much stronger Joule rating -- 3,580 for Progressive v. 1,750 for Surge Guard.

Roughly same price. Many more features on Progressive.

It's an important enough gizmo that I decided to go for the Progressive this time around.

Btw, best price I found on Progressive was from Lawrence RV Accessories, Inc., a Progressive dealer in Livingston, Texas. LCHW50 (with digital display on unit but without remote display) is $289.00 and HW50C (with remote display) is $339.00 -- both include free shipping. Ours came within four business days after ordering. On their website, Lawrence advertises that they do Progressive surge protector installations at RV rallies at $110.00.

I did ask Newmar if they would install our LCHW50 along with our the Air Force One equipment we will need to have installed on the coach. They said they would do both installs at the reduced $75.00 per hour winter special labor rate if we supply the parts.

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Old 01-01-2013, 06:01 PM   #32
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Thanks Deek,

I'm convinced that the Progressive is the way to go and after looking at the pictures posted by skmwalden, I think that I'll have room to do a vertical installation.

The only remaining question now is, where to put the optional display. Leave it below or try to fish the wires up into the bedroom area.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:11 PM   #33
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I have decided to also ask Newmar to mount a surge protector in my unit at the factory. I have decided to go with the Progressive Industries 50 amp Hardwire Surge Protector EMS-HW50C. Initially I was going to go with the portable version, so I could easily bypass the unit if I wanted. But there is a bypass feature on this unit built into the remote (a switch).

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Old 01-02-2013, 07:10 AM   #34
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I have decided to also ask Newmar to mount a surge protector in my unit at the factory. I have decided to go with the Progressive Industries 50 amp Hardwire Surge Protector EMS-HW50C. Initially I was going to go with the portable version, so I could easily bypass the unit if I wanted. But there is a bypass feature on this unit built into the remote (a switch).

Ma Snart


Wish that I had the opportunity for a factory install during my order, but didn't know all of the right questions to ask. Had I been smarter, I would have had the Progressive remote display wiring run during the assembly process directly to the control panel above the front door. This could have been a clean professional look with immediate access from the inside of my Ventana.

From previous posts, I believe that you and Deek are still waiting for for your orders to go on line, just a thought to consider.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:18 AM   #35
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From Deek.....""I did ask Newmar if they would install our LCHW50 along with our the Air Force One equipment we will need to have installed on the coach. They said they would do both installs at the reduced $75.00 per hour winter special labor rate if we supply the parts.""

I am also looking at the Air Force One install for the braking system but having read the Freightliner warranty information and they do not recommend any type of modification to the chassis. Has anyone confirmed that the warranty will remain intact?
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:21 AM   #36
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Very, very sweet ride, congratulations!
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:29 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lass View Post
Wish that I had the opportunity for a factory install during my order, but didn't know all of the right questions to ask. Had I been smarter, I would have had the Progressive remote display wiring run during the assembly process directly to the control panel above the front door. This could have been a clean professional look with immediate access from the inside of my Ventana.

From previous posts, I believe that you and Deek are still waiting for for your orders to go on line, just a thought to consider.
Thanks to everyone on these posts, I now am smart enough to ask the question. And yes I hope to have the readin the up front panel.

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Old 01-02-2013, 02:41 PM   #38
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Thanks to everyone on these posts, I now am smart enough to ask the question. And yes I hope to have the readin the up front panel.

Ma Snart
Having had one of these, I am not sure why you would want the readout any place other than where your power cord is.

here is my reasoning:

When you are connecting the shore power, you want to see that L1 and L2 are suppling proper voltage, and that there is not a miswire. That is what the display shows you. I would not want to connect power, go inside read it, go back out, move the plug, go back inside....you get the idea.

I have never had the unit show a bad power, but I have had it show low voltage. At that point, I moved spots, and problem solved.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:40 PM   #39
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Hey Rebaron73!

Well that makes sense. I can see why you would want the readout in the basement.

You then rarely find a need to read the panel after that? So having the readout in the unit is of no value? Not having had one of these surge protectors I was assuming that there would also be a time when the electricity was shut down and you would use the readout to see why. Therefore you would have to go outside to see why with it in the basement.

I see you can buy an additional readout, maybe that makes sense.

Thanks

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Old 01-02-2013, 05:41 PM   #40
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Hey Rebaron73!

Well that makes sense. I can see why you would want the readout in the basement.

You then rarely find a need to read the panel after that? So having the readout in the unit is of no value? Not having had one of these surge protectors I was assuming that there would also be a time when the electricity was shut down and you would use the readout to see why. Therefore you would have to go outside to see why with it in the basement.

I see you can buy an additional readout, maybe that makes sense.

Thanks

Ma Snart
In the 3 years that I have been using my HW50C, I have only lost power 3-4 times, and everytime the display was "blank". Following the cord led me to the pedestal, and that led me to the breaker that was tripped. I believe the only condition that would interrupt power once it is running other than 'loss of power' is a surge, and that condition will also require a trip to the electrical bay to reset it I believe that requires a move to bypass, and a replacement part.

The move to bypass is what scares me about the remote, and a reason why I want it out of the way. I don't want that moved to bypass on accident.

As for adding a second unit, no argument against that, and that may be the best of both. I know there is room for it, and the only reason not to do it would be the $$. You certainly are doing it at the right time.

The installation is very simple, as it is just a telephone cord. If it were me, i would have them install a CAT5e cable from the bay to the overhead..heck even 2 of the Cat5 cables. This is going to give you flexibility for future accessories and options, and you can just crimp the RJ11 end that you need. You will have to pay attention to the wiring schematic, as it is not the same as phone.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:40 PM   #41
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I am also looking at the Air Force One install for the braking system but having read the Freightliner warranty information and they do not recommend any type of modification to the chassis. Has anyone confirmed that the warranty will remain intact?
No worries about this, Lass. Take it from a lawyer.

Deek
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:50 PM   #42
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Another thing to consider is how you will have the protector installed. There are 2 methods, Before the transfer switch, and after the transfer switch.

My fleetwood did not have an easy way for me to install it after the transfer switch. Since the fleetwood was not an all-electric, the EMS was pretty active in making sure that the generator did not get a load for 2 minutes, so I felt safe in doing this. I know that surges *can* happen from the generator, but that is not as common.

Now that I am getting an all-electric coach, I am leaning towards installation *after* the transfer switch.

Cons:
* There is no protection to the transfer switch.

Pros:
* It is very easy to install since the transfer switch is located in the bay.
* When set to timer mode, this will ensure that no load is placed on the generator for 2 minutes +. This will always give a good warm up period.
* Protection from generator based surges


Is the transfer switch protection enough of a reason to place the surge in front of it?
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