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Old 10-07-2022, 06:55 PM   #1
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120V source for kitchen outlet

I am replacing all the electrical outlets on my 2000 DSDP 3565. Before I started I noticed the only plug near the sink was dead which is in a kitchen/ living room drivers side slide.
I pulled the outlet and the Romex wire goes down the wall, but to where? I only have two GFIs, one in the bathroom and one in the kitchen slide wall; they both check ok and are supplying voltage out. Every other outlet in the coach has power.
It almost seems like I have another GFI somewhere. The outlet in question has been fine till recently. Any one have a wiring diagram or know where the outlet gets itís power???
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Old 10-07-2022, 07:07 PM   #2
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I am replacing all the electrical outlets on my 2000 DSDP 3565. Before I started I noticed the only plug near the sink was dead which is in a kitchen/ living room drivers side slide.
I pulled the outlet and the Romex wire goes down the wall, but to where? I only have two GFIs, one in the bathroom and one in the kitchen slide wall; they both check ok and are supplying voltage out. Every other outlet in the coach has power.
It almost seems like I have another GFI somewhere. The outlet in question has been fine till recently. Any one have a wiring diagram or know where the outlet gets it’s power???
It is likely powered from the other GFCI, did you pull the other kitchen GFCI to see if a wire came loose or check the LOAD terminals to see if it is supplying power to the downstream receptacle?
edit: I noticed you said the other GFCI was sending power out, I know some slides have a connector, perhaps it came apart. If you don't know where the outgoing power from the GFCI goes then it's probably to the dead outlet. One way to find out is to trip the kitchen GFCI and see what goes dead. If nothing does, it likely goes directly to the dead location. If you find another outlet that goes dead with the GFCI tripped then the dead location likely comes from that one. Don't overlook any outside/compartment receptacles.
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Old 10-07-2022, 07:20 PM   #3
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Check in the ceiling in the outside storage bins. There may be a GCFI there, also.
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Old 10-07-2022, 07:42 PM   #4
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Mt Boyer, I’ll check those in the morning. This particular outlet and the two outlets on the opposite wall are all controlled by one GFI in the kitchen/LR slide. All outlets are energized except this one ?
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Old 10-08-2022, 04:43 AM   #5
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Hope you find the problem. Our Fleetwood has 17 outlets on the same 20amp circuit. The 8th outlet in the line is a GFCI in the bath room. We have never overloaded it, but we watch what we use.
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Old 10-08-2022, 05:40 PM   #6
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Kitchen outlet power source

UPDATE: continued to check for continuity on said outlet to corresponding GFI receptacle. There was continuity. Then checked continuity to the other two outlets in the circuit, continuity there also BUT no power to sink outlet but power to the other two in the circuit??
What we ended up finding was this; the breaker had tripped sometime previously but was still positioned in the on position. So flipped off and then on and voila, there was power in the outlet.
The interesting part of all this is, why did two outlets still receive power and one didnít and all with continuity between them?? The only thing I didnít do was actually place a load on the other two to see if they were getting full voltage. Thanks everyone
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Old 10-08-2022, 05:56 PM   #7
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UPDATE: continued to check for continuity on said outlet to corresponding GFI receptacle. There was continuity. Then checked continuity to the other two outlets in the circuit, continuity there also BUT no power to sink outlet but power to the other two in the circuit??
What we ended up finding was this; the breaker had tripped sometime previously but was still positioned in the on position. So flipped off and then on and voila, there was power in the outlet.
The interesting part of all this is, why did two outlets still receive power and one didn’t and all with continuity between them?? The only thing I didn’t do was actually place a load on the other two to see if they were getting full voltage. Thanks everyone
Either the breaker is unrelated to the ones that were still working or you were measuring a phantom voltage, what were you using for a tester? Non contact testers are notorious for false positives, and digital meters will show phantom numbers due to nearby live wires inducing a magnetic field on the de-energized ones. Was the breaker a GFCI breaker?
Also it is common for some older circuit breakers (Bryant with colored handles are notorious among similar designs) to trip internally with no obvious handle movement.
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Old 10-08-2022, 09:11 PM   #8
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Bigb56, I used a non contact tester. It’s been pretty reliable at other times. Never thought to load the working outlets for true voltage though. There are 5 outlets on the circuit including the GFI, I suspect as you stated, phantom voltage.
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Old 10-10-2022, 09:24 AM   #9
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Non contact testers are good in that they won't give a false negative (unless operator error like failure to test on known live circuit before and after test or trying to test conductors that don't broadcast a magnetic field like SEU cables)
but they do give false positives under many conditions. Once you work with one for long enough you will recognize a false positive by the distance from the conductor at which it rings. I won't use any NC tester except for Fluke, the high voltage model not the HVAC model. https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-...56304134&psc=1
Retired electrician.
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