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1talltxn · 09-09-2018, 01:40 PM

Howdy folks!
Just acquired a 1999 MAFW39BRCK from a family member that's no longer full timing. Overall it's in good condition with only minor issues related to its age and use levels.
What's got me stumped today is how to fix a sagging cabinet in between the living room and kitchen.
I'm not concerned with it falling, but it's not where it's supposed to be.

Is there a good way to pull the cabinet and the ceiling panel down to get a look at what's going on and add some reinforcement?

Thanks in advance! Looking forward to learning more from y'all!

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RKins · 09-09-2018, 02:18 PM

Welcome to iRV2! Nice looking rig.

I guess I would figure out a way to see how it is mounted to the ceiling rafters. One thing I've found in mine is that they use a ton of self tapping screws on everything.

1talltxn · 09-09-2018, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RKins

Welcome to iRV2! Nice looking rig.

I guess I would figure out a way to see how it is mounted to the ceiling rafters. One thing I've found in mine is that they use a ton of self tapping screws on everything.

Thanks!

Anyone got tips on how to get the ceiling panels themselves down?
Appears the cabinets are screwed in from the other side due to no visible screws or attachment points. Glued in maybe?

keger · 09-09-2018, 05:12 PM

I would think they used cleats screw to the ceiling then horizontal run screws thru the cleats and into the cabinets to hold the cabinet tops. You'll have to get inside the cabinets and look around to see exactly how they did it. Then maybe screws are run through the backs into wall studs. You might have to remove some trim or trim panels to access the hardware. On my MH I just wanted to remove a small trim piece and found it was held on by about 20 screws. Good luck with your project.

JFXG · 09-10-2018, 02:05 AM

1talltxn....... keger’s on the right track. A lot of cleats used in both cabinet assembly and mounting, while some are screwed directly into the ceiling. Some of the cabinets seem to have been assembled in place as the installation progressed. I’ve hung an awful lot of kitchens, and these things had me scratching my head sometimes!
I just finished — well, mostly finished- removing/replacing my entire over-dash TV and cabinet set. I had to almost completely disassemble the things to get them out.
Question: can you flex the cabinet assembly up and down if you push up on the bottom of the cabinet? Does the ceiling flex as well? You say you’re not worried about it falling. Why is that? But it’s “not where it’s supposed to be”. Just what do you mean by that?

1talltxn · 09-10-2018, 04:58 AM

JFXG, the cabinet is quite solid where it is. I can't feel it move when I lift up on it or when I push front/back on it.

I don't see any screws inside the cabinets. And the corner wood pieces don't feel to have any thing going from them up. My hunch is its attached from the other side of the ceiling. But, if they were assembled in place, that would make it interesting.

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RKins · 09-10-2018, 05:38 AM

I see 3 screws in the cleat in the picture - probably long screws going into the small cabinet piece behind it. Somewhere in the connection of the cabinets a tie into the rafters will probably be found.

1talltxn · 09-10-2018, 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RKins

I see 3 screws in the cleat in the picture - probably long screws going into the small cabinet piece behind it. Somewhere in the connection of the cabinets a tie into the rafters will probably be found.

That 'wall' is the end in the center of the camper. No other cabinet for that to connect too.

keger · 09-10-2018, 07:29 AM

A lot of these cabinets use what's called pocket screws to hold styles and rails together, and possibly the cabinets to your ceiling. If you want to truly remove your cabinets you might have to just start disassembling the wood pieces from the bottom. You'll have to determine how these things were mounted and move accordingly. If and when you do start disassembling the cabinets the screws holding this all together are probably a #2 square drive. Sometimes there made to use either a square drive or Phillips drive. Again you'll need to investigate which type you'll need. Good luck I hope you complete your project without too much trouble.

1talltxn · 09-10-2018, 07:33 AM

Thanks for the tips! I'll take a closer look.

JFXG · 09-10-2018, 04:38 PM

Look also for telltale sign of air gun use- the tiny head of a staple or small finish brad. Very often (but not always) the only solid wood or wood product is the face frame, assembled with pocket screw joints as keger mentioned. The balance is often a hollow wall construction where a cleat is screwed to the ceiling, and then prefinished inner and outer wall panels are tacked into place with airguns. Seems bizarre, but it saves weight and can be quite efficient if all the parts are pre cut and ready. That’s how my TV cabs were done. They were a strong as a solid wood cabinet, much lighter, and an absolute pita to deinstall.