2002 Newmar Mountain Aire MACA3560-Generator and What are these Plugs in Gen Bay

[RV_Guy_Mark]

Hi I recently purchased a 2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, I believe it is a MACA3560 on a Workhorse W22 Chassis.



I am new to RVing and have a few things to learn, I am fairly handy with some DIY work and have a good knowlege of electrical wiring haveing been an IBEW member and an electronic technician and HAM radio operator. I am not a generator expert but I have used them in my career on many occassions.

I am trying to get the old Generac Primepact 66G working. The previous owner who had it for 3 years said the generator worked and that it was LP Gas. He said he only ran it 3 times. It has 370 Hours on it. He was a young guy in his late 20's and he only went by what the prvious owner told him.

The generator would not start, I checked the oil, it was full. My LP Propane was at 3/4 tank and turned on. Still the generator would not start,



Well, I suspected this was a Gasoline Generator, not LP Propane. I was looking at some YouTube Videos of work being done on a Primepact 55G that looks very similaar and saw the generator on a bench being fed from a gas can. I also read the model would be a 66LP if it was propane after doing more research.

Remembering some RVs using the vehicles fuel tank have a feature that shuts off the genrator below 1/4 tank of fuel to prevent you from burning all your vehicle gasoline on the generator and being stranded not able to start your RV to drive it.

Note:*My gasoline tank was at 1/8 tank. *

So I drove and filled the RV with gasoline.
With plenty of gasoline in the tank, I was able to start the generator.

There was a good bit of smokey exhaustfrom generator as if the engine was running rich and my winter coat now needs washing as it smell like gasoline exhaust.

I switched the breakers to ON, (I did a diagram) of the breakers, the stickers on the door were not clear but if anyone can look at this diagram and give me some clarification at to exactly which breaker does what, i would appreciate it.


no electric reading at microwave 0 VAC, the back TV turns on, BUT NO 120 AC power read at any of the outlets in Bathroom and Kitchen. ) volts read

The House Battery is switched to IN USE.


I went into the basement, last bay on drivers side
and looked at the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) It is a Lyght LPT 50 CA




I am reading 89 VAC from either Leg of the generator 240 line into the ATS and same on output side.



So I am thinking perhaps the Voltage regulator board might need an adjustment or is bad, there is a red diode that lights up, and I noticed what looks like a blue potentiometer or perhaps selector switch, not sure if this could adjust the voltage?


I am hoping someone here might be able to give me some insight on this old Newmar and Generator.

Also can anyone tell me what these sockets were for? I believe these are from the Workhorse chassis and look like the same socket and wire colors as the sockets attached to the dual radiator fans up front under the hood. See white arrow.


I want to add, as the generator has run a few times, it is less smokey, still not great.

Thanks, Mark

[edgray]

Originally Posted by RV_Guy_Mark

Hi I recently purchased a 2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, I believe it is a MACA3560 on a Workhorse W22 Chassis........

I am new to RVing and have a few things to learn, I am fairly handy with some DIY work and have a good knowlege of electrical wiring haveing been an IBEW member and an electronic technician and HAM radio operator. I am not a generator expert but I have used them in my career on many occassions.

I am trying to get the old Generac Primepact 66G working. The previous owner who had it for 3 years said the generator worked and that it was LP Gas. He said he only ran it 3 times. It has 370 Hours on it. He was a young guy in his late 20's and he only went by what the prvious owner told him.

The generator would not start, I checked the oil, it was full. My LP Propane was at 3/4 tank and turned on. Still the generator would not start,



Well, I suspected this was a Gasoline Generator, not LP Propane. I was looking at some YouTube Videos of work being done on a Primepact 55G that looks very similaar and saw the generator on a bench being fed from a gas can. I also read the model would be a 66LP if it was propane after doing more research.

Remembering some RVs using the vehicles fuel tank have a feature that shuts off the genrator below 1/4 tank of fuel to prevent you from burning all your vehicle gasoline on the generator and being stranded not able to start your RV to drive it.

Note:*My gasoline tank was at 1/8 tank. *

So I drove and filled the RV with gasoline.
With plenty of gasoline in the tank, I was able to start the generator.

There was a good bit of smokey exhaustfrom generator as if the engine was running rich and my winter coat now needs washing as it smell like gasoline exhaust.

I switched the breakers to ON, (I did a diagram) of the breakers, the stickers on the door were not clear but if anyone can look at this diagram and give me some clarification at to exactly which breaker does what, i would appreciate it.


no electric reading at microwave 0 VAC, the back TV turns on, BUT NO 120 AC power read at any of the outlets in Bathroom and Kitchen. ) volts read

The House Battery is switched to IN USE.


I went into the basement, last bay on drivers side
and looked at the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) It is a Lyght LPT 50 CA




I am reading 89 VAC from either Leg of the generator 240 line into the ATS and same on output side.



So I am thinking perhaps the Voltage regulator board might need an adjustment or is bad, there is a red diode that lights up, and I noticed what looks like a blue potentiometer or perhaps selector switch, not sure if this could adjust the voltage?


I am hoping someone here might be able to give me some insight on this old Newmar and Generator.

Also can anyone tell me what these sockets were for? I believe these are from the Workhorse chassis and look like the same socket and wire colors as the sockets attached to the dual radiator fans up front under the hood. See white arrow.


I want to add, as the generator has run a few times, it is less smokey, still not great.

Thanks, Mark

Hi Mark: WELCOME to iRV2 .com and the Newmar forum
I can't help much with your electrical questions, but hope you can find some help from others here. There is a complete sales brochure HERE: https://newmar.imgix.net/wp-content/...s-a-luxury.pdf You will see it is for both gasser and DP coaches(Newmar did that back then). I can tell you that "MACA" was Newmar lingo for the gassers and they used "MADP" for the pushers. Many of the floor plan numbers were the same regardless of chassis. Looking at the brouchure's specs page, I see the Generac 6,600 watt generator was standard. My 2003 KSCA 3740 came with an Onan, which looked nothing like your pictures.

Since yours is on the Workhorse W-22 chassis, you need to be aware there were 2 recalls on it to correct problems with the brakes. Unless you have proof that the last brake recall, 51101-C, was completed I can run the vin # thru the WCC database to determine that for you. I only need the LAST 8 digits of the chassis vin # that begins with "5B4". If you want me to check this, send me an email, so I can attach the info to a reply. edgray1@gmail.com

[RV_Guy_Mark]

Originally Posted by edgray

Since yours is on the Workhorse W-22 chassis, you need to be aware there were 2 recalls on it to correct problems with the brakes. edgray1@gmail.com

Hi Ed, thanks for the link, yes I had the recall done, we had discussed this with my wife on another thread back in January. I was the one who had the work done at an Authorized Workhorse Dealer and RV Center in Gettysburg, PA. S&S RV Service Center.

I got new calipers through the recall and a lot of other work done. Had the brakeline fluid replaced, new brake pads. Had some work done on the passenger side manifold that had two mounting bolts broken and was causing a leak between the engine head and the manifold which burned a sparkplug wire... Installed front and rear Roadmaster anti-sway bars, Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer and I upgraded the shocks, 6 new tires. Did I mention this is an 18 year old coach but it looks really nice and rides like a big fat car now.

The Onan I believe is a Diesel Generator that uses the DPs diesel fuel tank, yes different manufacturer.

I am hoping I can esily get this old Generac back to putting out 240 VAC at 6,600 Watts.

I am considering a Champion Gas/LP generator as a plan B. I can do my own electrical work and I have thought removing the old Generac, I would like to install a slide out style rack to mount it on and could easily tie the 240VAC into the existing wiring box above the Generac and a little fuel line plumbing and tie in the starting switch. Might take a little more research, butthis is all Plan B.

Preferably I would like to get this old Generac running, it only has 370 Hours.

As far as the model, I found a 2003 Brochure and that model looked like my floor plan.

[twinboat]

Open up the air filter housing, remove the filter and see if the choke butterfly is opening up while the engine is running.
If the choke is partially closed, it will run rough and not to speed.

It needs to run at governed engine RPMs to output good voltage.

That is a 2 cylinder engine and will run on one one cylinder but It won't run good.

There can be a number of reasons for it to run poorly but, in my opinion, not enough to tear it out and install something never meant for built-in RV service.

PS: Its defenetly a gasoline engine, there is the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel line to the RV tank.

[RV_Guy_Mark]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Open up the air filter housing, remove the filter and see if the choke butterfly is opening up while the engine is running.
If the choke is partially closed, it will run rough and not to speed.

It needs to run at governed engine RPMs to output good voltage.

That is a 2 cylinder engine and will run on one one cylinder but It won't run good.

Thanks so much for responding!

The engine is running a lot better and smoother today. It may have had old gas in the line, and not clouds of smoke like it was when first started a few days ago. I added a few caps of duralube yesterday. It is running smoother and quieter today. Votage is still at 89 VAC on both circuits red to white and black to white. Also there is no voltage read between the two Hots, black to red, so this may not be a true 240 VAC generator, but supplies two 120 VAC on each side of the two circuits. Not sure if it is designed like that or that is a problem?

I pulled the air filter off, looks like there is another cover under that and I will have to get out a nut driver tomorrow and pull it apart. It is getting cold and dark now. Hopefully it won't rain tomorrow.

While running it just now I played with the throttle lever and spring, just pushed it up and down and could make the voltage drop to 75 VAC and when giving the engine more throttle voltage raised to 109 VAC but it sure isn't a quiet honda at the higher voltage. I was next to the generator though So maybe that is a good sign. So where do I make the adjustments.

Originally Posted by twinboat

There can be a number of reasons for it to run poorly but, in my opinion, not enough to tear it out and install something never meant for built-in RV service.

PS: Its defenetly a gasoline engine, there is the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel line to the RV tank.

Yes I have no doubt it is gasoline, 66G is Gas, 66LP is propane. It probably could be converter over, but that is another thread. Thanks for responding. I will update on the carborator buttlerfly ASAP.

Mark

[RV_Guy_Mark]

While I have the thread going, I didn't take voltage reading here, but I am assuming the back bedroom fuse pannel is for all 12 VDC stuff, the labels are a bit vague. Are the rooms just lights? There is also the missing mystery fuse and label covered by black sharpie. Any clarification would be appreciated.



Thanks in advance.

Mark

[twinboat]

Most RV generators are wired for 2, 120 volt outputs.

Some can be wired for 240 volts and some of the larger ones are.

[RV_Guy_Mark]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Most RV generators are wired for 2, 120 volt outputs.

Some can be wired for 240 volts and some of the larger ones are.

Good to know. Thanks.

[RKins]

Originally Posted by RV_Guy_Mark

While I have the thread going, I didn't take voltage reading here, but I am assuming the back bedroom fuse pannel is for all 12 VDC stuff, the labels are a bit vague. Are the rooms just lights? There is also the missing mystery fuse and label covered by black sharpie. Any clarification would be appreciated.



Thanks in advance.

Mark

The empty one on yours, as I look at mine, is marked EMS 7.5AMP and is also empty on mine.

[RV_Guy_Mark]

Originally Posted by RKins

The empty one on yours, as I look at mine, is marked EMS 7.5AMP and is also empty on mine.

What are wrap lights?

Is the TV/Stereo fuse for the in dash stereo and is the TV above?
I thought the TV was 120VAC fed from Generator or shore power or is this for an antenna booster.

Or could this be for the backup monitor and TV which might explain why both stopped working when I was driving back and the house batteries went dead.

Also found for some reason the connection off the front vehicle battery to the house batteries were disconnected which might explain why my house batteries died on my drive from Gettysburg to Philadelphia. Even my steps would not deploy. Could have been worse, they could have deployed at the gas station and not gone back in.

I cleaned up the house batteries, added distilled water and had them on a good charge and been cycling them. They came back up to 12.7 Volts and seem to be holding up better than at first.

I still need to reconnect the front hot cable to the vehicle battery so they will charge while driving.

[RV_Guy_Mark]

Good news!

I pulled the air cleaner and cover off over the carborator and checked that everything was running smoothly. The engine is running quieter and cleaner (for a gas engine).

I found a Generac Technician Repair Manual that gave good instructions on the governer and adjusting the voltage regulator.

I made adjustments to the Voltage regulator and am now at 122 Volts AC.

Now there is good AC power throughout the RV.

[Onegeorge1]

Originally Posted by RV_Guy_Mark

Hi I recently purchased a 2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, I believe it is a MACA3560 on a Workhorse W22 Chassis.



I am new to RVing and have a few things to learn, I am fairly handy with some DIY work and have a good knowlege of electrical wiring haveing been an IBEW member and an electronic technician and HAM radio operator. I am not a generator expert but I have used them in my career on many occassions.

I am trying to get the old Generac Primepact 66G working. The previous owner who had it for 3 years said the generator worked and that it was LP Gas. He said he only ran it 3 times. It has 370 Hours on it. He was a young guy in his late 20's and he only went by what the prvious owner told him.

The generator would not start, I checked the oil, it was full. My LP Propane was at 3/4 tank and turned on. Still the generator would not start,



Well, I suspected this was a Gasoline Generator, not LP Propane. I was looking at some YouTube Videos of work being done on a Primepact 55G that looks very similaar and saw the generator on a bench being fed from a gas can. I also read the model would be a 66LP if it was propane after doing more research.

Remembering some RVs using the vehicles fuel tank have a feature that shuts off the genrator below 1/4 tank of fuel to prevent you from burning all your vehicle gasoline on the generator and being stranded not able to start your RV to drive it.

Note:*My gasoline tank was at 1/8 tank. *

So I drove and filled the RV with gasoline.
With plenty of gasoline in the tank, I was able to start the generator.

There was a good bit of smokey exhaustfrom generator as if the engine was running rich and my winter coat now needs washing as it smell like gasoline exhaust.

I switched the breakers to ON, (I did a diagram) of the breakers, the stickers on the door were not clear but if anyone can look at this diagram and give me some clarification at to exactly which breaker does what, i would appreciate it.


no electric reading at microwave 0 VAC, the back TV turns on, BUT NO 120 AC power read at any of the outlets in Bathroom and Kitchen. ) volts read

The House Battery is switched to IN USE.


I went into the basement, last bay on drivers side
and looked at the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) It is a Lyght LPT 50 CA




I am reading 89 VAC from either Leg of the generator 240 line into the ATS and same on output side.



So I am thinking perhaps the Voltage regulator board might need an adjustment or is bad, there is a red diode that lights up, and I noticed what looks like a blue potentiometer or perhaps selector switch, not sure if this could adjust the voltage?


I am hoping someone here might be able to give me some insight on this old Newmar and Generator.

Also can anyone tell me what these sockets were for? I believe these are from the Workhorse chassis and look like the same socket and wire colors as the sockets attached to the dual radiator fans up front under the hood. See white arrow.


I want to add, as the generator has run a few times, it is less smokey, still not great.

Thanks, Mark

In the picture of the generator I notice that the two breakers are off. Have you tried turning them on?

[RV_Guy_Mark]

[QUOTE=Onegeorge1;5192509]In the picture of the generator I notice that the two breakers are off. Have you tried turning them on?

Yes sure did, I got the generator working and giving good voltage in the coach now.

I had to adjust the voltage regulator and now I have 120 Volts in the coach.

Thanks for responding.

[Dav L]

Throw some SeaFoam in the gas tank to help clean up the old gas residue in the generator and engine carbs / pumps.

And plan on replacing the fuel filters on both as well.