2014 Canyon Star Suspension/ Slide Out

[Jester47]

We are considering a 3424 Canyon Star. Most of our previous Newmars have been diesel. What would be recommended for improving the ride and handling. We added sway bars and Bilsteins to our 1996 gas rig. We did not have a toad brake system with the diesels. What would be the recommendation for the Canyon Star. Any issues with the full wall slide out?

[Rev. Roy]

My recommendation would be a 4 corner Liquid Springs™ system, but that will cost $25,000+/- which is a lot extra. I can understand why you went to this because it is nearly impossible to find a diesel that short. My wife and I are considering picking up a Class C for a trip to Alaska. Wouldn't expose our KA to that kind of trip.

[Stuart W]

1)Aftermarket front sway bar would be first on my list if I were to do it again.
2)Cheep Handling Fix on the rear sway bar, basically moving the links into closer mounting hole
3) Sumo springs on front
4)Safety T Steer steering damper
5) additional rear sway bar
Another thought would be new shocks Koni’s due to age

[Jabber Jaw]

Originally Posted by Jester47

We are considering a 3424 Canyon Star. Most of our previous Newmars have been diesel. What would be recommended for improving the ride and handling. We added sway bars and Bilsteins to our 1996 gas rig. We did not have a toad brake system with the diesels. What would be the recommendation for the Canyon Star. Any issues with the full wall slide out?

There are TWO DIFFERENT approaches to the issue, and I've done both!

Last one first! LIQUID SPRING front & rear suspension installation! Yes, expensive, at about $25,000. Rides drives & handles as well or better than a "DP" with a solid front axle. Most all entry to mid level "DP's" will have a solid front axle, and "LS" handles better!

Second approach.....I did all of this prior to installing "LS"!
1)Saf-T-Plus steering stabilizer, significantly reduces steering correction input, & wandering.
2)Ultra-Trac rear track bar (other brands available & most important to handling). Will all but eliminate sway, & most "lean & roll" characteristics. Ties the rear housing to the frame, & eliminates the excessive movement!
3) Koni shocks, will substantially improve ride characteristics, due to its' rapid damping (up/down) adjustments, and will also help the clang & bang from bridge transitions! Others claim a different shock will work, but I can say from experience, Koni is the best!
4) Sumo front springs, replace the solid hard rubber factory installed bump stop. The Sumos' are a compressible cellular construction and will allow better compression on bridge transitions & potholes than the factory bump stop!
Other will suggest added sway bars, etc, but with the track bar, are not necessary. There are plenty of other things to spend money on, if you so desire!
The above items , ordered & installed in 2019 were approximately $3,600-$4,000. Not sure at today's prices.
All of this, substantially improved the ride of my 38' Newmar Canyon Star (3710). Drove it about 10,000 miles. Was much better, but not what I ultimately wanted!

Had "Liquid Spring" suspension installed, and WOW!! Yes, expensive, but worth it! Have put over 13,000 miles with "LS" to include out West to Montana,Wyoming,ND,SD, etc. From sea level to 11,000' elevation, straight & smooth, mountainous & curvy, & even bridges & potholes (nothing eliminates them), & I have been extremely happy.
And Yes, even with the added expenses of the above....I'm still about $50K less than a comparable same year model "DP"!
I would not trade my Coach for a comparable "DP"!

This post is a bit long, but hopefully it may help you in making your decision!

Me, I'd save my other expenditures, & use it toward "LS" suspension!

Happy "RV'ing"!!

[doc]

This is going to sound goofy. We have a 2016, 3911 Canyon Star and I just put new tires on it. The Toyos have a bit wider footprint than the Michelins that were on it. Drives so much better and the squirrely feel is gone. Michelins had timed/aged out but only had 16+K miles on them. I was surprised and quite pleased.

[permitwriter]

We have a FWS. It worked fine for a while but now it kind of chugs and hesitates as it comes up the ramp. Once it gets up the ramp, it comes in smoothly. It's never not come in. Another thread suggested WD-40 on all metal contact points, rollers, etc. That didn't help. I removed the switch and connected it with a long jumper wire so I could operate the slide while outside watching it. I didn't see anything. I now suspect a 12V issue but haven't investigated that fully yet. The house batteries tested ok but I'm not convinced and the inverter doesn't have 110V output (12V input seems ok).