2016 Solar Prepped Coach - Solar Installation

[C.Martin]

dp7

Wow...nice list. I had forgotten all about using SOC instead of Time or Amps (tail current) for end of Absorb. I always figured the meter needed to see a full charge via one of the other methods to calibrate the full. I know the Victron keeps a count of every time it “calibrates” 100%. If you only use SOC, then maybe it wouldn’t refine the calibration anymore. Somewhere in Victron documentation they mentioned allowing the bank to be fully charged at least once every so often to allow for this calibration.

As far as replacing the Magnum monitor with the Victron. We’re using both!!! I had the ME-BMK installed on my coach first. I added the Victron BMV-712 later. The Victron BMV-712 uses the same shunt value of 50mV/500A as does the ME-BMK. In addition, the Victron has a small PCB that happens to be screwed to the shunt. It’s tiny screws were a perfect place to add the Me-BMK Blue and Orange sense wire terminals. You have to use Victron Shunt to gain the ability to add Temp Compensation using the BMV, if not using their standalone Battery Smart Sense device.

[creativepart]

I reinstalled the Magnum ME-BMK today and I simply cut off the small eyelets on the Orange and Blue wires that normally connect to the side of the shunt blocks and wrapped the wires around the Battery and Load side posts of the Victron SmartShunt.

I'll know soon enough if it's working correctly - typical for when you first connect the ME-BMK the display now reads "Think'n".

I'll report back when it's done thinking.

[richpatty]

Originally Posted by creativepart

I reinstalled the Magnum ME-BMK today and I simply cut off the small eyelets on the Orange and Blue wires that normally connect to the side of the shunt blocks and wrapped the wires around the Battery and Load side posts of the Victron SmartShunt.

I'll know soon enough if it's working correctly - typical for when you first connect the ME-BMK the display now reads "Think'n".

I'll report back when it's done thinking.

Sounds good. Keep us posted.

[R.Wold]

Originally Posted by C.Martin

This is a couple of shots of the Solar Prep.

The bay directly behind the battery compartment had a red and black #6 wire and a network cable ziptied and fastened to the bulkhead.

The other end of these wires are located under /near a metal plate on the roof. There isn't a hole there...just a metal plate held down with four screws and sealed with dicor.

The network cable...well I didn't use it. I've heard you can find it in the control cabinet over the passenger seat...but I didn't look for it.

Reading thru the forum...previous years solar prep wiring wasn't done in this manner.

I posted these pictures to help you find your wiring. If you do not find it there...before you go any further...find out what you're working with. You may elect to run all new wiring.

Thanks to this I finally found mine - THANKS!

Now I have to go back and read the other 337 posts

[R.Wold]

So I’m a little late to this party, but I’ve had solar stuff on my last three coaches, the last two being fairly elaborate set-ups with Leaf lithiums starting in 2018 on my Four Winds 30’ Class C with 6 315w panels, then the Bay Star with the same equipment but 5 panels.

I won’t go into great detail unless someone wants me to but suffice it to say that the use of residential solar allowed much smaller panel wire (16ga iirc) and the lithium bank (2/3 of a gen 2 Leaf battery pack) has allowed me to run the AC for about 7 hours after sundown. Doubling the battery bank for the Ventana will give me power to run both ACs or one all night, which I’ve found is desirable in the South during summer trips.

The system is in my garage now waiting to go on the ventana but I’m redesigning and rethinking some stuff, not the least of which is the ability to run both ACs. Because the inverter/charger max’s out at 28v, the only way I can make it to full charge of 32.8v is with the solar. I completely abandoned the OE inverter and batteries in the Bay Star and ran all 12v off the converter drawing power from the inverter - inefficient I know but with this amount of power it really doesn’t matter.

My dilemma is do I want to cobble together something to use both the 24/3000 and my existing Mag 2000w each doing their own thing, or scrap all the OE stuff (which I like) and just run a 48v 8kw inverter. 48v is a great number to work with for lithiums in multiples of 4.1v. In this case runs of 14 modules would have a max charge of 57.4v, within the capabilities of the Victron 48/8000, so I could reach full SOC on shore or gen power when the sufficient sun isn’t avail. So decisions, decisions....your input is welcome! So far all I’ve done is remove the TV antenna and sat dish to make room for the panels.

Basics: Victron 24/3000, 5 LG 315w panels, two 150/35 controllers, and the Leaf lithium bank - here’s some pics of the components (the battery bank was sealed off behind the inverter and controllers, and the inverter space was vented to the outside though the rear cap using computer fans controlled by a very analog fantastic fan thermostat and probe):

[dp7]

Originally Posted by creativepart

I reinstalled the Magnum ME-BMK today and I simply cut off the small eyelets on the Orange and Blue wires that normally connect to the side of the shunt blocks and wrapped the wires around the Battery and Load side posts of the Victron SmartShunt.

I'll know soon enough if it's working correctly - typical for when you first connect the ME-BMK the display now reads "Think'n".

I'll report back when it's done thinking.

Don't see why it wouldn't work. The BMK sense module is just looking at the voltage drop across the shunt. As long as the shunt values are the same, the BMK sense module would not know whether it was connect to a Victron shunt or a Magnum shunt.

[C.Martin]

Originally Posted by R.Wold

So I’m a little late to this party, but I’ve had solar stuff on my last three coaches, the last two being fairly elaborate set-ups with Leaf lithiums starting in 2018 on my Four Winds 30’ Class C with 6 315w panels, then the Bay Star with the same equipment but 5 panels.

I won’t go into great detail unless someone wants me to but suffice it to say that the use of residential solar allowed much smaller panel wire (16ga iirc) and the lithium bank (2/3 of a gen 2 Leaf battery pack) has allowed me to run the AC for about 7 hours after sundown. Doubling the battery bank for the Ventana will give me power to run both ACs or one all night, which I’ve found is desirable in the South during summer trips.

The system is in my garage now waiting to go on the ventana but I’m redesigning and rethinking some stuff, not the least of which is the ability to run both ACs. Because the inverter/charger max’s out at 28v, the only way I can make it to full charge of 32.8v is with the solar. I completely abandoned the OE inverter and batteries in the Bay Star and ran all 12v off the converter drawing power from the inverter - inefficient I know but with this amount of power it really doesn’t matter.

My dilemma is do I want to cobble together something to use both the 24/3000 and my existing Mag 2000w each doing their own thing, or scrap all the OE stuff (which I like) and just run a 48v 8kw inverter. 48v is a great number to work with for lithiums in multiples of 4.1v. In this case runs of 14 modules would have a max charge of 57.4v, within the capabilities of the Victron 48/8000, so I could reach full SOC on shore or gen power when the sufficient sun isn’t avail. So decisions, decisions....your input is welcome! So far all I’ve done is remove the TV antenna and sat dish to make room for the panels.

Basics: Victron 24/3000, 5 LG 315w panels, two 150/35 controllers, and the Leaf lithium bank - here’s some pics of the components (the battery bank was sealed off behind the inverter and controllers, and the inverter space was vented to the outside though the rear cap using computer fans controlled by a very analog fantastic fan thermostat and probe):

Wow...that’s pretty awesome. Your working with a whole new tier of components. Our Ventana was 8 - Interstate 6v...so, we didn’t go to the voltages you are working with.

If I had to design a new coach, ground up...and running air conditioners strictly from solar production...definitely, more storage/lithium/higher voltage/dc-dc converter/larger Inverter...

That level of project was tough for me to justify. I had a 1-yr old coach. Kinda liked the AGS, MS2812, Bi-directional relay... Would have been easier if our chassis was 24v. I kept reminding myself...I do have a generator if I need it... So, cobbling a system into the pre existing architecture was a rabbit hole I didn’t want to climb down.

I should also point out. There is a whole sub-forum....not Newmar dedicated...called Going Green. A lot more diversity of Solar Systems discussed there as well.

Wow...7 hours of air conditioning. With respect for a 50% depth of discharge on our lead acid battery’s an Peukert stealing his ration...we can run about three...with the sun. It doesn’t reward us to go into periods of darkness with discharged batteries, so at some point...we needed generator.

When boondocking on our solar...it’s worked out if the overnight hours are cool. During the day, and not during any type of quiet hours...we set our air conditioner to trigger the AGS. It cycles, solely for air conditioning. We go into night time with fully charged batteries and wake the next morning to 75% or better. That’s with the furnace cycling during the cool night on diesel. Living in Florida...we rarely have conditions favorable. The times we have done it were one year at the balloon fiesta rally, and the FMCA rally in Perry, GA. Worked great. When we hit retirement...we’ll try to include our solar and the climate in our planning to take better advantage. Perhaps by then...we’ll switch to Lithium and have a bit more to work with.

[R.Wold]

Originally Posted by C.Martin

Wow...that’s pretty awesome. Your working with a whole new tier of components. Our Ventana was 8 - Interstate 6v...so, we didn’t go to the voltages you are working with.

I only have six so it’s been a struggle during the few months I’ve owned the coach - guess I was a little spoiled with the Bay Star set-up

If I had to design a new coach, ground up...and running air conditioners strictly from solar production...definitely, more storage/lithium/higher voltage/dc-dc converter/larger Inverter...

This is the opportunity - an 8kw inverter to run everything and double the lithium capacity

That level of project was tough for me to justify. I had a 1-yr old coach. Kinda liked the AGS, MS2812, Bi-directional relay... Would have been easier if our chassis was 24v. I kept reminding myself...I do have a generator if I need it... So, cobbling a system into the pre existing architecture was a rabbit hole I didn’t want to climb down.

This is other side of the equation and why I haven’t ripped into it yet.

Wow...7 hours of air conditioning. With respect for a 50% depth of discharge on our lead acid battery’s an Peukert stealing his ration...

The real benefit of lithium - greater discharge and more cycles

When boondocking on our solar...it’s worked out if the overnight hours are cool. During the day, and not during any type of quiet hours...we set our air conditioner to trigger the AGS. It cycles, solely for air conditioning.

In 20,000 miles of mostly boondocking over a year and a half in the Bay Star I never needed the generator, and that was my goal. Now, with the 8kw “quiet diesel“ gen, I’m looking at things differently.

We go into night time with fully charged batteries and wake the next morning to 75% or better. That’s with the furnace cycling during the cool night on diesel.

Right now we barely survive the night going in fully charged, while my solar equip sits in the garage so I need to do something, but like you, I like my Magnum components

Living in Florida...we rarely have conditions favorable. The times we have done it were one year at the balloon fiesta rally, and the FMCA rally in Perry, GA. Worked great. When we hit retirement...we’ll try to include our solar and the climate in our planning to take better advantage. Perhaps by then...we’ll switch to Lithium and have a bit more to work with.

One of my goals is to be able to travel comfortably in the South in the summer but at some point the effort becomes somewhat unrealistic - like running both ACs off the system over night - not sure it’s worth it, and probably not necessary.

Another goal is to use existing inventory because I don’t like wasting money. I don’t mind the idea of purchasing another inverter and more lithium batteries, but I don’t want a surplus Victron inverter/charger sitting on the shelf. So I could incorporate my 24/3000 (to run one AC) with the Mag 2000 (for all the rest of he 110v stuff) but that’s the “cobbled together” system I referenced.

Decisions, decisions...

[C.Martin]

At night...I stagger the thermostat settings...with zone 1 cooler. This usually keeps the front a/c doing the work...so it's quieter in the bedroom. The common ducting, and tower fan we have...keeps things comfortable in the bedroom. From that...I would say you are probably good for nighttime with one air conditioner.

I have to admit....it would be nice to be completely solar sustained without restriction. I would imagine that as efficiency goes up, prices come down, manufacturers engineering guys become more savvy, buyers more educated, and eco consciousness gets stronger...a no limits self sufficient solar powered coach will become the norm in the luxury coach market. I mean who wouldn't want to have a quiet, green, self reliant coach? Instead of folks worrying..."Where can I get a 50 Amp pull-thru?"...suddenly all they will want is the occasional "Sewer + Water" campsite...

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by richpatty

Sounds good. Keep us posted.

Yes, it works fine and seems completely normal. I have not tested it in comparison with the Victron SmartShunt yet because I'm plugged in at home and doing various jobs around the RV. So, both BMKs read 100% SOC.

I just exposed the orange and blue wire ends and wrapped them around the shunt posts. It would have been more "correct" to put large enough eyelets on the wire ends to put over the posts. I was saving time because it was a "test" but now I wish I had done so. Maybe someday it will wear me down and I'll redo it.

[C.Martin]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Yes, it works fine and seems completely normal. I have not tested it in comparison with the Victron SmartShunt yet because I'm plugged in at home and doing various jobs around the RV. So, both BMKs read 100% SOC.

I just exposed the orange and blue wire ends and wrapped them around the shunt posts. It would have been more "correct" to put large enough eyelets on the wire ends to put over the posts. I was saving time because it was a "test" but now I wish I had done so. Maybe someday it will wear me down and I'll redo it.

Just be careful...loosening those studs...should you forget to remove the Inverter POS lead first...can result in damage to the ME-BMK and ME-AGS. When the inverter is still connected to those devices and looses ground, it will seek an alternate ground thru those sensitive circuit boards.

Just a friendly reminder...

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by C.Martin

Just be careful...loosening those studs...should you forget to remove the Inverter POS lead first...can result in damage to the ME-BMK and ME-AGS. When the inverter is still connected to those devices and looses ground, it will seek an alternate ground thru those sensitive circuit boards.

Just a friendly reminder...

I left everything attached and just loosened the bolts enough to fit the wire in between the split washer and the cable end. But thanks for the reminder.

My inverter has a salesman's switch on the positive lead from the inverter to the battery and that's normally what I switch off when doing any of the wiring work. But this time I kept everything connected (and off) the whole time.

[richpatty]

Originally Posted by creativepart

I left everything attached and just loosened the bolts enough to fit the wire in between the split washer and the cable end. But thanks for the reminder.

My inverter has a salesman's switch on the positive lead from the inverter to the battery and that's normally what I switch off when doing any of the wiring work. But this time I kept everything connected (and off) the whole time.

Thanks for the report. Maybe I will put the smartshunt back on my wishlist.

[C.Martin]

Originally Posted by richpatty

Thanks for the report. Maybe I will put the smartshunt back on my wishlist.

And when I was looking at photos of the SmartShunt500A...I see a ve.direct port. Yippee... That means future Cerbo or Venus GX compatibility. Awesome...

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