Here are the key parts:
1. FLX-00017 12 in. - 3000K Warm White - LED Tape Light - Dimmable - 12 Volt, 1000bulbs.com. I used 12 strips and glued these in on the two sides and ceiling in one continuous C shaped light. The ends are maybe 4” from the floor. Mark the placement and place two strips at a time after you test the entire 12 strips together. Also buy the 12v wiring connector with two bare wires on one end and a connector for the first light strip. Although the website suggestions you need 4 pin connectors and possibly corner connectors I found these were not needed. One strip plugs into the next.
2. Switch, 9001BX by COLE HERSEE - 9001 - Door Push-Button Switches Series 9001BX by COLE HERSEE, finditparts.com. Various places carry this, the trick is finding one without a high minimum order as the switch is about $6. Used a 3/4” drill bit to drill into the base board, carefully measuring to leave 3/8” wood either side of hole so baseboard remains strong. Prewire a positive tail to this switch then tape the connections with electrical tape to insulate. Use quick connectors on all other wiring connections.
I installed a generic inline fuse after the switch also on the positive side.
The rest of the parts are less unique. 16 gauge wire is fine, the supply to the closet light is only 18 gauge. Find a two strand, black and red combo to help you keep positive identified.
In line fuse for 12v, same gauge. I used a 5amp fuse. Quick connectors and use a pair of channel lock pliers to do a strong crimp. Regular pliers don’t quite do a good enough job.
You may need to buy some butt connectors. I found there was very little extra wire on the wardrobe closet light so I used butt connectors to extend each tail by 4 inches so I could more easily use a twist on wire connector to connect three wires for both the positive and negative wires. Used gorilla tape to tape down the wiring in the lamp before reattaching to the closet ceiling, one inch further away from the initial mount as I needed that room for the 2 wire to exit.
Measure carefully as the ceiling in the closet is a little higher than the pantry, looks the same but maybe 1/2” in our coach. Solid wood to drill through to pantry.
The wire connector you buy with the strips is not marked positive or negative and plugs in both ways. If the lights don’t come on flip the connector over it it should work.
I used gorilla tape to secure the wiring down in the pantry against the wood frame on the left, front side of the inside pantry door frame to hide the wires from view and keep them from getting snagged. Same in the floor after the switch in case you use the floor of the pantry as we do.
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