Adjusting Bay doors

[redbaron73]

Today I decided to tackle the bay door adjustments. This is the 3rd time I have done so, and only minor adjustments where needed.

The one door I have never been able to get correct is the front driver side fuse bay. This has always required a very hard slam compared to others.

I made an accidental discovery that may help others.

By removing a single screw the door shuts with ease.

I have spent about 3 hours trying to figure out which way this thing flexes, including videoing from the inside while close. I cannot figure out this helps but it is dramatic.

[redbaron73]

Another project while I was on the doors was to add some aluminum ferrules to the end of the lock pull.

[Dutch Star Don]

I'm guessing if you could put a one way flapper valve (like a duck bill) on the wall of the electronics aby, it might close easier. It doesn't bother me too much as I'm not in that bay that often.

I've probably adjusted my doors about three times. It takes time to dial them in just right for flat sitting and on jacks. I'm down to one door that I could probably fine tune a little more.

[RandDescape]

By happenstance I was tackling the ferrules yesterday myself. When I got to the drivers side chassis electrical bay I found that all 3 of the screws on the forward side of that plastic lock shroud were backed out and that forward side was protruding from the door 1/4”. I don’t go into that bay often but I don’t know how I missed it. I’ll monitor those over the next few trips (after quarantine is over).

My cable clamp nuts were tight all around, no play in any of them so the factory was having a good day when mine went through. But 2 had been cut too short for the ferrules and I’ll be replacing those.

The chassis electric bay takes about the same force to close as the 2 drivers side rear corner bays on my Ventana. I really think as Don alludes to, the smaller bays (by volume) take more effort to overcome the air pressure. That and they are not as long compared to the pegboard bay. All other bays are semi-interconnected (for the convenience of any rodents.

I also have noticed it’s harder to keep the long (front to back) shorter height doors under the full wall slide aligned compared to those under the kitchen slide.

- Richard

[Hawkeye]

Redbaron, are you saying by removing that screw, it is releasing the air pressure when closing the door? Your picture is too dark, but is that a screw for the plastic cover? Thanks

[redbaron73]

Originally Posted by Hawkeye

Redbaron, are you saying by removing that screw, it is releasing the air pressure when closing the door? Your picture is too dark, but is that a screw for the plastic cover? Thanks

It is not related to air pressure at all.


If I remove the entire black plastic peice, 4 screws, and leave it off, I can use just my pinky to close. Very simple. I can get it resting on the latch, and then just press gently anywhere along the chrome and it closes.


If I put the black piece back in, I have to slam the crap out of it. By removing just the one screw that is on the far left (area circled) I can again just pinky close it with no momentum.


I spent a very long time trying to figure out why. I placed the camera inside and closed it. At no time does the black part come in contact with anything to do with the frame, bulb seal, latch etc.


I then loosened the screw, and it again closed perfectly. As soon as I tighten it down, no longer can I close. If I turn 1/4 turn, it closes again.


This tells me there is something I am not seeing that is pressing on the plastic, and it is being restricted.



I gave up...removed the screw, and said "screw it"...I am happy with how it performs with 3 of the 4 screws.

[Dav L]

ie: air pressure. I never slam any of the doors. Close, Push to click. Then no problem with air pressure even if super tight seal (a good thing).
ie: cable ferrules - model airplane axle ferrules have allen head screw lock down. Might be better than clinched for reuse / service.

[Hawkeye]

That is weird, must be releasing the pressure thru the latch itself. I guess for the other doors, it makes sense to latch them lightly then a push to secure tight. My coach is sitting in Nappanee, otherwise I would check it out.

I have put the extra throttle cable set screws on all of my door latches, and also put an emergency pull cable on all my doors. I don't like to be locked out.

[ShelbyTom1]

I have played with adjusting my bay doors but it seems like hit or miss.
It appears that most of the hooks are too far into the coach so if I move them out they close easier.
What is the trick to an easy adjustment?

[Dutch Star Don]

Originally Posted by ShelbyTom1

I have played with adjusting my bay doors but it seems like hit or miss.
It appears that most of the hooks are too far into the coach so if I move them out they close easier.
What is the trick to an easy adjustment?

It's kind of a fine line. If you move the striker too far outward, the bay won't seal and the door can stick out a little at the latch end. The up down adjustment is also important. Close the door and watch where the striker hits. I like mine to close with a reasonably moderate push, but if one doesn't and still hard to close, I extend the striker out a little farther.

[Canuck53]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

It's kind of a fine line. If you move the striker too far outward, the bay won't seal and the door can stick out a little at the latch end. The up down adjustment is also important. Close the door and watch where the striker hits. I like mine to close with a reasonably moderate push, but if one doesn't and still hard to close, I extend the striker out a little farther.

How do you extend the striker? Bend it?

[Canuck53]

Originally Posted by redbaron73

Another project while I was on the doors was to add some aluminum ferrules to the end of the lock pull.Attachment 280476

Do you take the cover off to see the wire?

[redbaron73]

Originally Posted by Canuck53

Do you take the cover off to see the wire?

Yes, you have to remove the 4 screws holding.


I only did the off-door side of the coach yesterday, and of those bays, 3 did not have enough length to add a crimped end.


I called Newmar today and ordered 8 more sections of the cable with the pre-attached Z link end. Shipped it was $20, so I will be ready to upgrade all of these.

[Hawkeye]

They told me at Newmar last week to adjust your doors off the jacks, the same reasoning for putting the slides out first before leveling.

Another easy just in case mod, is to drill a 1" hole into the plastic cover right over the cable lever. Then if you have a failure, you can reach in from the adjoining door or remove the hinge bolts and easily push on the lever to open the door. Someone had that suggestion on here awhile back.