Air Fliter Placement

[Wil_H]

I just had the air filter replaced at the mothership and I am wondering if this looks correct. It appears that the back end of the connection to the engine intake is not fully seated. There is also silicone sealant at the junction of the rubber hose and the metal framing of the air filter, but only at that back edge. Is this going to be a problem?
Also, does anyone know what the torque requirement is for the hose clamps here?

Thank you,

[NCC-1701A]

Well...the fact that they felt the need to put silicone sealant around the back would indicate, at least to me, that it is not sealed enough by itself...and it should be positioned fully, or very nearly fully, into the rubber connection. Minimum, according to the ECO instructions, is 1 1/4" of the outlet tube into the rubber connector.

These can be a bit of a bugger to get seated fully, but it's effort that just needs to be done. The ECO instructions do call for some silicon spray lube to make the job easier, but I have always been hesitant to introduce anything "foreign" into my air stream AFTER the filter.

Just my opinion, but I would not be satisfied with that.

As far as torque, the manufacturer's recommendation needs to be followed. Could be 60 to 150 INCH pounds depending on bolt size.

[Lt Dan]

If it's against the filter housing on both sides like the circled area, then that's as far as the boot can go onto the outlet due to the curvature of the housing. There is at least an inch or more of metal outlet inside the rubber boot. Don't know why they would put silicone under it unless it was just an extra measure of sealing.

[palehorse89]

I have seen filter's with silicone on the "seam's" for the connection's to the rubber boot fittings on the main filter body. I think that silicone was just slopped on there and was dry......No one would be stupid enough to silicone these boot joints to the air filter.......and as tight as these boot's fit the air filter, there would be silicone piled up around the boot end the whole way around it. I think it is just fine.......
Look to the right of your red arrow, on the main filter body, looks like some more slopped on there also......
How about the other boot with the fresh air hose on it?

[Kevin Bell]

Originally Posted by Wil_H

I just had the air filter replaced at the mothership and I am wondering if this looks correct. It appears that the back end of the connection to the engine intake is not fully seated. There is also silicone sealant at the junction of the rubber hose and the metal framing of the air filter, but only at that back edge. Is this going to be a problem?
Also, does anyone know what the torque requirement is for the hose clamps here?

Thank you,

Torque spec is 30-45 in/lb, but I don’t know anyone who actually uses a torque wrench to set a clamp. As long as the boot clamp area is positioned over the metal flange an adequate seal will be established. If not fully seated, most likely it will slip off when clamp is tightened. Each tech has a preference as to what lubricant to use to make assembly easier, but for someone to use a sealant would be highly unlikely. Not sure what residue your looking at in the picture. Realistically, if there is an air leak in that area, the percentage of air coming through there verses the filter media would be negligible.

[NCC-1701A]

Originally Posted by Kevin Bell

Torque spec is 30-45 in/lb...

Kevin, I see 30-45 in/lb for standard worm gear clamps, but for large constant-torque clamps like used on those large air filters, these are the specs I find:

BREEZE Constant-Torque Heavy-Duty Clamps

These clamps are found in sizes ranging from 1" to 9 1/8" in size. The torque value for this HD clamp is 90 in. lbs. Let’s take a minute to stress how important it is to use a torque wrench on the constant-torque style clamps. These are designed with a Belleville spring that allows the clamp to expand and contract with temperature fluctuations to prevent cold leaks. They only work properly when they are installed at the proper torque specification.

BREEZE T-Bolt Clamps

These range in size from 1 ¼" to 8 13/16" in size. The correct clamp tightening torque for this is 60 in. lbs. for the clamps with a ¼ screw and 150 in. lbs. for clamps with a 5/16" diameter screw. This specification is for standard and spring-loaded clamps.

[Kevin Bell]

Originally Posted by NCC-1701A

Kevin, I see 30-45 in/lb for standard worm gear clamps, but for large constant-torque clamps like used on those large air filters, these are the specs I find:

BREEZE Constant-Torque Heavy-Duty Clamps

These clamps are found in sizes ranging from 1" to 9 1/8" in size. The torque value for this HD clamp is 90 in. lbs. Let’s take a minute to stress how important it is to use a torque wrench on the constant-torque style clamps. These are designed with a Belleville spring that allows the clamp to expand and contract with temperature fluctuations to prevent cold leaks. They only work properly when they are installed at the proper torque specification.

BREEZE T-Bolt Clamps

These range in size from 1 ¼" to 8 13/16" in size. The correct clamp tightening torque for this is 60 in. lbs. for the clamps with a ¼ screw and 150 in. lbs. for clamps with a 5/16" diameter screw. This specification is for standard and spring-loaded clamps.

Guess I was referencing the wrong Star Fleet manual, thanks for the correction.

[Dutch Star Don]

That's not new silicone, it's something left over from possible assembly when new. The lip on the air cleaner is about 1.5" long, so the rubber tubing is seated all the way. The hose clamp is in the proper position.

Just a note for those who change their own filters....... Before changing the filter, rinse the engine compartment and specifically that area around the hose and let dry. You can disconnect the air cleaner from the hose where the OP has photographed or disconnect it further down where it connects to the turbo inlet. I prefer to disconnect at the turbo inlet. In the OP's photo, you can see where you can get dirt built up on the top edge of the rubber boot. When you try and remove the air cleaner, the dirt can fall down into the turbo. By disconnecting at the other end of the rubber hose, it slips over the inlet so less chance of dirt getting into the turbo.

Once the filter is off, remove the boot and install it on the new filter and then install the filter. You'll also find it easier to R&R the filter at the lower fitting.

[Wil_H]

The silicone is new and slightly tacky.

[Dutch Star Don]

Are you sure it's not grease or vaseline. Those air cleaner tubes are a pain to slide back on.

[Wil_H]

Don, That’s what I thought at first. It is not grease, it’s clear silicone sealant.

[Argosy]

Silicone grease and silicone sealant look a lot the same, silicone grease will stay tacky, silicone sealer will harden. Use a putty knife or screwdriver to scrape some off and see what it is.

[PanJH]

I was at the Freightliner Factory Service Center in Gaffney a couple months ago for my annual service. They told me that they did not replace the air filter as scheduled because the vender that supplies the air filters made them incorrectly ( didn't fit properly) and that there was a national backlog of the filters. No scheduled time frame for availability. I wonder if you got one of the "bad" filters. You might want to call Gaffney to get details and then Napanee.

[NCC-1701A]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

The lip on the air cleaner is about 1.5" long, so the rubber tubing is seated all the way. The hose clamp is in the proper position.

I guess I'm not seeing what those of you who feel the filter is fully seated are seeing.

I see the front edge fully seated. The back, however, appears far from seated, the way I'm looking at it. I see about an inch of metal (behind the arrow) that should be down into the rubber tubing. Looks like the filter is not straight down into the rubber. ???