Community Forums

mandopay · 01-25-2023, 04:34 PM

Changed the bolts on the slide motor to grade 8. Bolt at the top was a 5/8 which I couldn't see, stuck torque wrench on it to see if it was tight, felt some clicks like the torque wrench had the setting.
Went to try the slide heard a bad noise and now it doesn't work.
No good deed goes unpunished.
So what did I do?

bfezz · 01-25-2023, 07:11 PM

I doubt you did anything since the bolt bosses are usually blind meaning they do not thread into the motor itself, just into the housing. You would need to look at the motor while trying to actuate it to see what is actually happening.

dp7 · 01-25-2023, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mandopay

Changed the bolts on the slide motor to grade 8. Bolt at the top was a 5/8 which I couldn't see, stuck torque wrench on it to see if it was tight, felt some clicks like the torque wrench had the setting.
Went to try the slide heard a bad noise and now it doesn't work.
No good deed goes unpunished.
So what did I do?

Don't see any advantage to going to grade 8 bolts. The weak link is the aluminum female threads, not the bolts.

My recollection is that the mounting bolt heads were 1/2" & 9/16", not 5/8". What torque setting did you use?

NCC-1701A · 01-26-2023, 09:39 PM

I agree with DP7. As far as I have ever seen, bolts into the motors are either 5/16 or 3/8 which have 1/2" and 9/16" heads respectively. My '13 MA motors take 3/8" bolts...9/16" heads. Not sure what bolts you used with a 5/8" head...not that the hex size would matter if the thread size was correct and proper length.

A 3/8-16 gr 5 (which is what my factory installed bolts were) has a torque spec of around 34 lbs dry. About 26# wet (like with loctite). BUT...I don't know that the aluminum bosses can withstand that torque long term (just my opinion) without stretching the threads. Gr 8 won't help because the weak link is the threaded aluminum boss.

All that said, have you looked to see if the motor housing cracked? Are the bolts still in place and tight? Are the brackets the motor is mounted to still in place and not cracked or bent? Does the system make any sound or do anything when you attempted to operate it? You didn't disconnect the power coupler at the motor somehow or pinch/damage a wire?

I changed out the bolts on my large slide motor with the SLS method, which completely cured loosening bolts. But I had to loosen the big torque nut and pull the motor back then reinstall to do that. I re-tightened the trans torque nut to 125# per the spec on the instructions in my coach. At that torque the shaft would slip making a banging sound and the slide would not move up the ramp. I had to add another 10# of torque to the trans torque nut and all was well. But it doesn't sound like you did anything but change out your bolts and retorque them.

Winepress · 01-26-2023, 11:46 PM

I’m sure the OP meant to say Stage 8 fasteners, which is a way to prevent the loosening of the slide motor bolts.

mandopay · 02-08-2023, 09:43 PM

The front gear box made an awful noise. So the process began. Found a replacement motor at Visone rv, $445.
Now those trantorque bushings were a project. I got all 4 loose by using a 1-1/2 crows foot and a 1/2 in breaker bar and a 2 foot cheater bar. Broke them loose and gingerly tapped for a day , no luck getting the internals to let go, so time for the heat gun. In an hour I had 3 undone.
Okay,let's get this motor out, undo the 4 9/16 bolts and now I have the motor hanging on the 1 inch shaft like a barbecue spit. I need to move the shaft all the way to the front (left)so I begin tapping it over. By tapping, I mean a steel bar and a 5lb sledgehammer. The problem is that they painted everything black under there including the shaft. I have to sand paper the paint off these parts to get the shafts to slide. But not quite enough I need to tap the short shaft to the left to separate the keyed shaft finally gave enough room to lower shaft and remove the motor. Man, my friend and I are really tired. This was 10-4 pm, crawling around and sitting on the asphalt not to mention the 5lb sledge.
I am going to let it sit for a couple of days then go back and tighten 4 trantorque bushings ,I did all 4 because the rear of the slide was hanging out a bit and looks like a good time to adjust it.
Thanks for all the support, I found out the 5/8 nut was for manual retraction of the slide which is close to impossible to use. Hope this helps someone down the line.
My tips, heat gun, sandpaper, 5lb sledge.

Nadge · 02-27-2023, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mandopay

The front gear box made an awful noise. So the process began. Found a replacement motor at Visone rv, $445.
Now those trantorque bushings were a project. I got all 4 loose by using a 1-1/2 crows foot and a 1/2 in breaker bar and a 2 foot cheater bar. Broke them loose and gingerly tapped for a day , no luck getting the internals to let go, so time for the heat gun. In an hour I had 3 undone.
Okay,let's get this motor out, undo the 4 9/16 bolts and now I have the motor hanging on the 1 inch shaft like a barbecue spit. I need to move the shaft all the way to the front (left)so I begin tapping it over. By tapping, I mean a steel bar and a 5lb sledgehammer. The problem is that they painted everything black under there including the shaft. I have to sand paper the paint off these parts to get the shafts to slide. But not quite enough I need to tap the short shaft to the left to separate the keyed shaft finally gave enough room to lower shaft and remove the motor. Man, my friend and I are really tired. This was 10-4 pm, crawling around and sitting on the asphalt not to mention the 5lb sledge.
I am going to let it sit for a couple of days then go back and tighten 4 trantorque bushings ,I did all 4 because the rear of the slide was hanging out a bit and looks like a good time to adjust it.
Thanks for all the support, I found out the 5/8 nut was for manual retraction of the slide which is close to impossible to use. Hope this helps someone down the line.
My tips, heat gun, sandpaper, 5lb sledge.

Mandopay,
How did you learn/know how to remove the Trantorque bushing as you described the steps you took? Late news, as always the case for me.
I read, to turn nut until you heard a snap and the nut turns freely. Then continue to turn nut and it will tighten up. Continue to turn nut until you hear another snap and it will be free.
I followed these directions to the "Tee" and the second snap I heard, was the nut broke into 6 pieces. Oh my aching next two days, dropping the entire short shaft from cog wheel to motor gear box and much more and toooo much to include here.
I have a 2016 Ventana 4037 LE.

traveller333 · 02-28-2023, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nadge

Mandopay,
How did you learn/know how to remove the Trantorque bushing as you described the steps you took? Late news, as always the case for me.
I read, to turn nut until you heard a snap and the nut turns freely. Then continue to turn nut and it will tighten up. Continue to turn nut until you hear another snap and it will be free.
I followed these directions to the "Tee" and the second snap I heard, was the nut broke into 6 pieces. Oh my aching next two days, dropping the entire short shaft from cog wheel to motor gear box and much more and toooo much to include here.
I have a 2016 Ventana 4037 LE.

The method for removing the TranTorque bushings is definitely unique.

Here is a link outlining my trials an tribulations with TranTorque bushings.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/rep...-a-586048.html