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Old 08-11-2022, 08:39 PM   #15
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I do all my own maintenance and repairs. Actually oil changes are more dificult on my Silverado than my Freightliner, just takes more time. Fuel filters are extremely easy if you have a side radiator and if you raise the coach and use a creaper greasing isn't too bad. My generator and AquaHot are pretty accessable so I do regular service on them also.
for me , it takes lesss time to change oil than it takes to drive to the Western Star shop for service.
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Old 08-11-2022, 10:18 PM   #16
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Servicing is a little easier than your car, just a lot more fluid and bigger filters to deal with. It can be intimidating due to the engine size, but do some research and it will all come together. Fleet filter is a great source for filters. Look into a Fumoto drain valve for the second time you change oil, much easier to deal with 5-10 quarts at a time than it is at 45 quarts it once.
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Old 08-11-2022, 11:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
I have a question for you. Since you have big rigs and say you aren't a fan of 10k or 1 yr service. Do you or your mechanics think it is harmful to wait 2 yrs between oil changes? I have roughly 4k on the Valvoline Premium synthetic oil. It really feels like a waste of time and expense. I will probably take a sample to send off for testing after it cools down.
Nope, there will be no issues with a low use bi-annual oil change service schedule. I'm on the 8K/24 month schedule myself. Annual chassis lube/inspection is still mandatory though. Annual oil/filter changes with only a couple thousand miles of use are just a waste of money.
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Old 08-12-2022, 08:18 AM   #18
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I have a question for you. Since you have big rigs and say you aren't a fan of 10k or 1 yr service. Do you or your mechanics think it is harmful to wait 2 yrs between oil changes? I have roughly 4k on the Valvoline Premium synthetic oil. It really feels like a waste of time and expense. I will probably take a sample to send off for testing after it cools down.
All of my big trucks run daily, we service them at 10 to 15 K miles depending on what the manufacturer suggest, I just see no need in changing the oil every 12 months if the unit just sits around in a shop and only has 3-4 K miles put on it.
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Old 08-12-2022, 11:59 AM   #19
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On the Freightliner chassis, there is a fan drive gear box that can only be serviced from the bathroom, looking down. It should be checked at least once and make sure it's not leaking. If it's leaking, occurs fairly often, it will through gear oil on the engine fan. Change the oil in it, a few ounces, and that shouldn't need to be checked for a few years.
∆∆∆∆∆∆∆ THIS!!!

I have Orangutan arms, so I can check the gearbox oil level from below, but checking to see if oil is being forced or sucked out of the vent is best done from above. I also fashioned a long tube onto a funnel so I could add oil from behind the motorhome vs going through the hatch in the bathroom.
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Old 08-12-2022, 01:21 PM   #20
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One other comment.....On all three of my DP's, I added the Fumoto drain valve. When I do an oil change, I use the 2.5-gallon jugs of Rotella, from Walmart. I save the old jugs for the next oil change. I slide the empty jug under the Fumoto valve and start draining the oil. Once that jug is full, I swap it with another.

For the first oil change, you won't have the empty jugs, but more than likely you'll have some empty DEF jugs.

Once I'm done, I put the caps on the jugs and drop them off at the local auto parts store. The big thing.......no transferring oil from the pan to the container, no funnels and no mess. I save large chunks of cardboard 3' x 4' from delivery boxes and place a piece down when doing the oil changes.
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Old 08-12-2022, 01:47 PM   #21
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Don, how do you access the desiccant filter on that Freightliner? It looks like quite a challenge for us mere mortals.
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Old 08-12-2022, 03:33 PM   #22
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All of my big trucks run daily, we service them at 10 to 15 K miles depending on what the manufacturer suggest, I just see no need in changing the oil every 12 months if the unit just sits around in a shop and only has 3-4 K miles put on it.
I'm in a similar situation and have done oil sampling / analysis and change ecery other year when mileage low. Lots of emotional arguments pro & con but I prefer to rely on testing & data... thats what large fleets do so good enough for me.
I dont test every year on MH or boat but do periodically to confirm analysis remains similar.
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Old 08-12-2022, 05:42 PM   #23
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Thanks Guys! That is my thinking also. I know most all professionals will tell you to change oil before storage. But, mine isn't really being stored. I use it through the summer here at home then, drive it to Arizona for the winter. Our cars don't even get enough miles before the "oil change" lights come on.


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Originally Posted by Alpine36 View Post
Nope, there will be no issues with a low use bi-annual oil change service schedule. I'm on the 8K/24 month schedule myself. Annual chassis lube/inspection is still mandatory though. Annual oil/filter changes with only a couple thousand miles of use are just a waste of money.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kampers View Post
All of my big trucks run daily, we service them at 10 to 15 K miles depending on what the manufacturer suggest, I just see no need in changing the oil every 12 months if the unit just sits around in a shop and only has 3-4 K miles put on it.
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Old 08-12-2022, 05:45 PM   #24
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Yup... I don't mind sending in a sample of oil in comparison to a full oil change. And, it tells you what is going on in the engine.


Quote:
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I'm in a similar situation and have done oil sampling / analysis and change ecery other year when mileage low. Lots of emotional arguments pro & con but I prefer to rely on testing & data... thats what large fleets do so good enough for me.
I dont test every year on MH or boat but do periodically to confirm analysis remains similar.
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Old 08-12-2022, 06:19 PM   #25
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Don, how do you access the desiccant filter on that Freightliner? It looks like quite a challenge for us mere mortals.
My 2014 DS on a Freightliner had the desiccant filter mounted with the removal can facing upward. Just an inch below the floor of the coach. The entire unit had to be removed and serviced on the bench. After several hours of cussing and trying, I finally got it out and swore I would never change one again. Back then the dealer wanted $400 in labor.

My 2019 DS on a Freightliner has what looks like the same unit, but it's mounted so you can remove the can. I will let it go to the five-year mark and then see what it takes to change it. I'll be another two years older and closer to 70, so it may get hired out.

My Monaco had a Waabco SPIN ON filter, it was soooooo easy to change.
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Old 08-12-2022, 09:13 PM   #26
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FL has and continues to be a mess when it comes to servicing the air dryers. Wish they would take a lesson from Spartan, but my guess is they mount it where they can save the most on running extra air lines to it. Same goes for FL fuel filters. Newer coaches are fine but some of the older ones were a mess as well. And that fan drive gear box DS Don was mentioning is a mess too. On my 21, I need to remove the bathroom floor access and the big steel plate that runs underneath the radiator as well in order to service it. At my first service I did the DS Don modification to the vent line so you can tell if you have a real leak or not on the gear box.
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Old 08-13-2022, 08:19 AM   #27
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I can easily change the oil in my cars, etc. The issue with doing so on the RV is the sheer volume of oil. I don't have a container big enough to catch 6 gallons of oil. Trying to drain half, get the plug back in half way, then get the other half out would be an incredible mess. I know many put the Fumoto valve in place of the drain plug, but that first time would still be an enormous mess. How do you DIY guys deal with that?

I always have the newmar service center do the first oil change on my coaches, then install the Fumoto valve rather than the old oil plug. I am given the old plug when they are finished.
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Old 08-16-2022, 10:05 AM   #28
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I do all my regular engine maintenance myself ... after getting burned (twice) at the service shop, once with an incorrectly tightened oil filter (which dripped oil for several weeks when starting from cold) and then with a coolant filter shutoff valve where the locking screw was not retightened (the entire valve spindle came loose and dumped several quarts of coolant - everywhere!).

I purchased a 15 gallon wheeled, low profile catch tray from Northern Tool and use a low profile creeper to get me under everything. Spartan do a service kit which contains all the filters and belts I need, except the air filter (a separate transaction). It takes a while, the only really difficult item is removing/replacing the oil filter (the installation is tight and there are lots of other hoses and wiring harnesses in the way). Lubing the chassis is another tough and messy task, most of the zerks are accessible, but the drive shaft is difficult without a pit or some other way to get additional vertical access without the risk of being crushed.
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