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Old 06-17-2020, 08:18 PM   #15
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Sorry but I don’t know why pictures double post.
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Old 06-17-2020, 08:21 PM   #16
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I assume if it was a limiting adjustment, it wouldn't work when power was applied directly, which you indicated it does, unless you were somehow bypassing the limiting mechanism.


OK, so according to the data sheet, that appears to be a "standard" double pole double throw (DPDT) switch. Only one "pole" is being used. As expected, the center wire is connected to one of the adjacent wires when the switch is pushed one way and the other one when pushed the other way.
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Old 06-17-2020, 08:28 PM   #17
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From the testing I’ve done with multimeter, what Dav posted on post 4 seems right. Both the drivers side and passenger side switches for the passenger sunshade have wires hooked up the same. Switch the three light blue connector wires to the right side of the switch has the same effect when using the multimeter to test. I don’t think the wires are hooked up incorrectly.
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Old 06-17-2020, 08:37 PM   #18
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Happy2. I got thinking about your statement that the two top positions (double red wire and double black wire) on the switch are for the lighted switch. I was thinking that it was the power to the switch. I may need to take it apart again and do more testing.
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Old 06-17-2020, 08:41 PM   #19
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So, according to the data sheet, the red and black wires are for back lighting. They may be on all the time or may be switched on with the parking lights, depends on the manufacturer.



The black, red with white stripe, and pink are what is being switched. I would expect these three wires run either directly to the passenger side switch in the same configuration or to a switching module/relay and then on to the passenger side switch. They could be independently run to said control/relay module.
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Old 06-17-2020, 09:03 PM   #20
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You should have a total of six wires. I’m only seeing 5. Also, you have a wire connected to terminal 3 and nothing to terminals 6 and 8. See below diagram.


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Old 06-17-2020, 09:48 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy013 View Post
You should have a total of six wires. I’m only seeing 5. Also, you have a wire connected to terminal 3 and nothing to terminals 6 and 8. See below diagram.

Attachment 289994

This is DEFINITELY NOT a simple polarity reversing switch as you have diagrammed. That there are two switches, one on the driver's side and one on the passenger side for the same function, is a clue, but the real proof is in the data sheet. The L28D1... shows the terminal pinout: position 1 momentary connects terminals 2&4 to each other (pole 1 throw 1) and 6&8 to each other (pole 2 throw 1) 6&8 are open here); position 2 center off; position 3 momentary connects 1&2 together (pole 1 throw 2) and 5&6 together (pole 2 throw 2 open here). "Terminals 9,10, & 11 for lamp circuit only." The red and black wires are on 9 (black) and 10 (red). This is a double pole double throw momentary switch with only one pole being used.



I can only speculate, based on experience, the origin and destination of the three switched wires. One would hope that they go to a module with some logic, either in the way its wired, or semiconductor logic, that prevents the driver from pressing up and the passenger from pressing down causing a short circuit.
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Old 06-17-2020, 10:42 PM   #22
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Ok, I see what your saying. I stand corrected. Terminals 9 & 10 which have the double wires is daisy chained along the switches to provide illumination to all the switches. (Similar to what I added to my coach). And yes, only one throw is being used. The red/pink wire on terminal 2 is most likely the power wire and terminals 1 and 4 get power when the switch is held in the up or down position.

The wires connected to terminal 1 & 4 are most likely each connected to a relay. He should be able to disconnect one of these wires at a time and determine which one works and which does not. Then trace the wire thats not doing anything to the up relay. I would suspect either the up relay is bad or there is a loose wire. I suspect the two relays are co-located and he should be able to swap them to determine if the relay is the issue.

I suspect that each relay normally has ground connected to the wire going to the shade. When the switch is pressed in the up or down position, the corresponding relay outputs 12v on the wire going to the shade, moving the shade in the appropriate direction. If the driver and passenger both activate their buttons at the same time, one up and the other down, each relay would output 12 volts on each wire going to the shade. This would stop the shade from moving, but would not cause a short, as there is no connection from 12v to ground.
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Old 06-17-2020, 11:02 PM   #23
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Hadn't thought about that logic. Used to thinking about things being grounded, but obviously if the motor is reversing polarity, neither side of its coil is permanently tied to ground. Agree that seems the most likely configuration.



Also agree that problem is likely either a bad relay or loose connection going to or from relay.
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Old 06-18-2020, 10:54 AM   #24
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Ok. Did more testing this morning. Confirmed double red and double black wires are tried to the headlights switch to illuminate switch.
Next disconnected other three wires and put multimeter on single black and red/wht and then red/ wht and pink wires. Both showed 13.5. All good.
Next did continuity test for three poles where single black and red/wht attach and where red/red and pink attach to switch. Both were good. So power into the switch and out of the switch are good.
Could not find any kind of relay in the wiring leaving the area. It has to be either a bad relay or loose wire at the relay or bad wire between switch and shade.
Hopefully Newmar can tell me where relay is.
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Old 06-18-2020, 10:54 AM   #25
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This is a great forum.
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Old 06-18-2020, 12:24 PM   #26
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The relays generally make a clicking sound with energized. If you still have the shade working in one direction, I would recommend having one person push the rocker switch while other person listens for the clicking. You could even disconnect the shade wires to cut down on the noise it may generated.

The relay could be in the passenger arm rest (the area where all the button are). It could be behind the driver side button, behind the instrument cluster, or any other area where you have electronics tucked in.
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Old 06-18-2020, 12:38 PM   #27
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Found this picture on internet and this is how my two switches are wired.
I talked to CS at Newmar and they didn’t have wiring diagram for my coach. They sent me what they had that was for a 2014 Baystar/ CanyonStar. It really didn’t help much. I’ll have to have someone look at it. Thanks for all the help.
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Old 06-18-2020, 04:28 PM   #28
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Try running a wire from the switch to the blind. That will tell you if the switch is working and that there may be a bad spot in your wiring. I don't think there is a relay for the blinds. That switch is probably a 15 amp switch. The wires on the motor are small like 18 or so.
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