Basement Door Latch Cables

[turbopilot]

Skywatcher1 posted a very important problem that most likely applies to all late model Newmars but was posted here in the New Aire Observations thread.

Every basement door on the NA (and most likely other Newmar DP's) has one or two cable driven latches. When you pull the outside latch a cable pulls on the over center latch to open the door. This cable is attached via a fitting retained by a single Allen screw. If those Allen screws are not tight eventually the cable will pull out of the fitting making it impossible to open a basement door without some very difficult surgery explained by Skywatcher1 in the post noted.

I have had no latch failures (yet) but yesterday I took every basement door apart for an inspection. 80% of my Allen screws were loose. Four of these doors had cables just about to pull out of the fittings. Many of these cables had excessive play. In other words the cable was not tight between attachments. You can easily test for slack cables (which may mean they are pulling through the fitting because of a loose Allen screw). Simply pull on the latch. If the latch does not release as you first move the latch the cable has slack. I also found several stripped self tapping screws holding latches. The latches were actually moving on the door when closed.

As I moved around the coach repairing all the latches I thought about all the problems I would encounter on the road if one of those doors would not open. For instance, the DEF tank is behind one of those latches. There would be no way to fill the tank if the latch failed.

It takes a couple of hours to inspect and fix all the latches.

[Beach Aire]

You can get cable retainers from various sites that will prevent the cable from passing through the latch assembly. We use them on Corvette hood release cables all the time.
Available from Zip Corvette: https://www.zip-corvette.com/63-82-h...p-w-screw.html

[Algoma]

You want to leave a little slack in the cable to ensure the latch is fully closed.

[turbopilot]

Originally Posted by Algoma

You want to leave a little slack in the cable to ensure the latch is fully closed.

Correct. I found you have to rig the cable with the latch in the closed position, which will provide some slack open.

Doors work much better when these latches are properly rigged. Other than cable rigging I was amazed how many latches were loosely attached with either stripped self tapping screws or screws not properly torqued. My doors close and open much better now.

These little cables can really ruin a trip if you can't get a basement door open. Other than DEF door not being able to get to your tools would put you in a situation with a locked door and no way to get to the tools to fix the door as Skywatcher1 experienced.

[Stuart W]

I did check a couple on my 2018 DS and so far they were tight. The latch does have a cable put the mechanism appears different.

[Algoma]

I just looked at a friend's Holiday Rambler and his latch and handle are a single unit, so no cable between the handle and latch. Also the lock actually locks the latch, not just the handle. Anyone know why Newmar doesn't do it this way? After all the front door handle and latch is a single unit.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by Algoma

I just looked at a friend's Holiday Rambler and his latch and handle are a single unit, so no cable between the handle and latch. Also the lock actually locks the latch, not just the handle. Anyone know why Newmar doesn't do it this way? After all the front door handle and latch is a single unit.

Did he have power locks

[Algoma]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

Did he have power locks

No.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by Algoma

No.

I think that will be the answer, this design accommodates the electric actuators

[Skywatcher1]

If your latch cable is frayed you can order a new one from Newmar parts - they are only a few dollars. I had a couple loose cables and one pulled free and only need one to cause you a lot of grief since it locks you out of your baggage bay. I ordered a couple a latch cables and should get them this week. The cable retainers would work but you need quite a bit of excess cable and most of my cables did not have much excess to thread through a retainer.

[turbopilot]

Originally Posted by Skywatcher1

The cable retainers would work but you need quite a bit of excess cable and most of my cables did not have much excess to thread through a retainer.

Another reason you need excess is that there needs to be a little slack in the cable. If it is too tight pulling the door handle will open the door even in the locked position. Dialing in the cable tension requires repeat trial and error. Too slack and the door is hard to open or the other end of the cable can come out. Too tight and the door over center latch will open even when the door is locked.

Could be a better design.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by turbopilot

Another reason you need excess is that there needs to be a little slack in the cable. If it is too tight pulling the door handle will open the door even in the locked position. Dialing in the cable tension requires repeat trial and error. Too slack and the door is hard to open or the other end of the cable can come out. Too tight and the door over center latch will open even when the door is locked.



Could be a better design.

I’m sure there is some variance with heat and cold that requires some slack

[CLB2]

On my 17 BayStar the cable for the electrical bay door broke. Fortunately that is a pass through bay. I was able to "suck it up" and crawl into the bay. I ripped 0 check set screws mentioned in OP.

[CLB2]

Not sure why narrative got truncated. I was able to tear the thin plastic cover off and trigger the latch with my finger to get the door open. The cable broke at midpoint with no obvious rub point. Maybe defective cable. Took all the other covers off to inspect cables and check set screws. Will leave covers off so can check cables frequently.