Community Forums

dnhxx · 02-22-2017, 07:27 AM

Hello,

I know there are many posts on this subject, but we are getting close to putting in an order for a Bay Star 3401.

My question is does anyone know how the wiring is ran for the solar prep kit, end to end?

I called Newmar and they sent me an old 2012 document (strange no current drawings) stating that the wires are ran to the front on gas units to the engine compartment. They also leave a loop behind the control panel - which explains the sticker in some of the photos I saw. I would think you could pull the wires on one side to get the loop out, but if the wires do go to the engine compartment, they would need to be re routed and shortened, negating the benefit of ordering the solar prep kit.

We are buying the residential refrigerator option which adds two more batteries, and from the units I saw, all four batteries are then installed mounted in a pull out tray in a bay on the drivers side. I would think the solar wires would run from the roof straight down to here.

Can anyone with a Bay Star or Canyon Star with the residential refrigerator option confirm where the solar prep kit wires are ran end to end?

Thank you and we look forward to owning a Newmar.

don
Dallas

lnanne · 02-22-2017, 09:22 AM

We ordered this option and in hindsight wish we hadn't. When we had solar installed, they found one end nowhere near the plate on the roof (it was above the hallway by the shower but the plate was farther forward about 3-4 feet). The other end is in the passenger bay with converter and inverter directly across from the batteries in the tray on the driver's side.

The reason we wish we hadn't done it is we ended up needing #4 gauge instead of the 6 that Newmar uses (and we're only a 31' coach!). So the solar installers closed up the hole and we now have a new maintenance spot to keep caulked (if they knew the 6 gauge wouldn't work, why did they cut the hole and look for it?!!). They ended up routing the 4 gauge down the gray water plumbing vent to under the fridge so they didn't use any of the solar prep.

I don't recall how much that option was but it might be worth it in case it works for you.

Good luck!
Ellen

Canuck53 · 02-22-2017, 09:55 AM

Why did #6 gauge not work? Installed 1500 watts or the distance to long from combiner to controller?

dereed999 · 02-22-2017, 01:50 PM

We have a 2016 Bay Star and have a few comments re solar prep...

First, the plate on the roof is indeed just a "marker for where the wire generally is" - there's no "box" behind the plate or anything - just a "marker".

Relative to the comment about where the end of the wire was... both in our coach and in watching them go down the line, they leave a coil of wire generally centered on that plate. I didn't know that at first. Which meant when I removed the plate and cut an access point I couldn't find the wire. Thankfully I have a wire tracing tool and was able to use it to discover the loop of wire (which was indeed centered on that plate - but was in a circle about 12-16" around the plate). It was a "fun" task to use a wire fish tape, a dental mirror, and a penlight to find and hook part of that loop of wire and "fish it to the middle" of the hole/plate. So I have no doubt the other poster was accurate and the "end" of the wire may have been on the other side of the coach but I would be surprised if it wasn't also looped "around" that plate and some fishing and a wire trace tool could have found it near the plate.

We have an 1000W array. As for wire gauge, #6 works fine and voltage drop is minimal as the run length really isn't that long - BUT we setup the panels to be in pairs so our open circuit voltage is around 36V vs 18V (an 18V panel being considered a 12V solar panel as that's the practical voltage as it relates to battery voltage). If we ran every panel is parallel so we only had 18V on the #6 wire the voltage drop and loss would be significantly higher. I've measured the voltage drop as well as using an online tool and it's acceptable to me in terms of loss (just under 2%). Would I order the option again? Without a doubt

As for where the #6 wires end, yes, it's the converter/inverter bay.

lnanne · 02-22-2017, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canuck53

Why did #6 gauge not work? Installed 1500 watts or the distance to long from combiner to controller?

They had charts that showed for this length of run with 640 watts (with room for more in the future) and 12v panels it required (recommended?) 4 gauge. We weren't consulted, just told they'd use what was recommended per the charts.

I guess less voltage drop is better but perhaps 6 would have been fine?

Ellen

vsheetz · 02-22-2017, 05:11 PM

I am not a fan of factory solar prep, as it may not be what you want or need for your PV system. It may not be the correct or optimal wire size, number of wire pairs, or routing. So it's a waste of money if unused or limit your PV system design options if constrained to use the factory prep wiring.

Canuck53 · 02-22-2017, 05:29 PM

I agree to use #6 wire with any system that is at or around 1000 watts+ you need to get the voltage up. Bigger panels that have 30+ volts or 2 smaller panels in series.

Or you can use a pair of #6 wires.

vsheetz · 02-22-2017, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lnanne

They had charts that showed for this length of run with 640 watts (with room for more in the future) and 12v panels it required (recommended?) 4 gauge. We weren't consulted, just told they'd use what was recommended per the charts.

I guess less voltage drop is better but perhaps 6 would have been fine?

Ellen

At 600+ watts of 12v panels all wired in parallel, #4 would likely be best. Also leaves wire capacity for a couple future additional panels.

vsheetz · 02-22-2017, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canuck53

I agree to use #6 wire with any system that is at or around 1000 watts+ you need to get the voltage up. Bigger panels that have 30+ volts or 2 smaller panels in series.

Or you can use a pair of #6 wires.

Agree, multiple pairs of wires with larger PV arrays. I have three strings of multiple panels with three pair of #10 coming from the roof to a combiner box in the basement, then feeding on to a MPPT controller.

ByeTheWay · 02-22-2017, 07:36 PM

Running conduit for #6 or4 from roof to solar controller makes sense

dnhxx · 02-23-2017, 07:54 AM

I agree, after talking with our dealer, running conduit is probably best idea
Newmar was willing to add a second solar prep kit, giving us 2 pair of #6 AWg, which would be large enough wire for at last a 800W system. But given the expense for that option x2, and not knowing where the wires are, doesn't make sense.
We will ask for a 1 1/2" conduit ran from the roof to the bay where the batteries are, made as short as possible. Both ends are then known, and it will be large enough to easily fit 4-6 #4AWG wires.

thanks everyone for the comments, once we get our coach, I will post how it all works out.

Canuck53 · 02-23-2017, 09:01 AM

I will be surprised if they put in a 1.5 inch conduit but I would like to know.

dnhxx · 02-23-2017, 09:18 AM

One more question

Where on the roof will be the best spot to terminate the conduit? towards the front? Or should I just ask for center and midpoint of roof?