Bed Slide Trantorque Slipping - Can I Tighten?

[Sky_Boss]

Today while putting the bed slide out it started making a thumping sound. We went ahead and pulled out all the stuff under the bed and removed the panels. I could see that when the slide was all the way out the motor was turning and the trantorque was slipping. I don't see any broken parts.

The slide moves in and out equally and doesn't show any other "bad" behavior.

Can I tighten it and if so, how? If I got it right...attached is a very short video. The slide is fully extended and the shaft to the left of the motor doesn't move. The bushing on the right is moving but the shaft doesn't.

Perhaps I'm missing something but I'm not sure why the shaft to the left of the motor is not moving but the bushing on the right is. I would have thought the shaft on the left would have caused the motor to "amp out".

[Mr_D]

Transtorque bushings take different values for different slides and a 1-1/16" crowsfoot wrench. The only one I needed to remove was the main slide on my '02 DSDP. I had to call Newmar to get the correct torque value.

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by Mr_D

Transtorque bushings take different values for different slides and a 1-1/16" crowsfoot wrench. The only one I needed to remove was the main slide on my '02 DSDP. I had to call Newmar to get the correct torque value.

Thanks...

So...armed with the appropriate tools and torque values, can this be (re)tightened assuming it isn’t broken?

I would think it isn’t normal for it to losen but not unheard of.

[JMH]

You slide motor controller may be out of spec also. Sometimes they can overdrive the bushings. Best to have the factory look at.

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by JMH

You slide motor controller may be out of spec also. Sometimes they can overdrive the bushings. Best to have the factory look at.

Over night I was also wondering the same. I was very familiar with my previous coach's slide controllers and motor settings. I'm not familiar with this one.

I also started thinking (over thinking?) about the gear box. What has troubled me is that the shaft to the left stops moving but the one on the right is moving. Could this be a sign that something is broken inside the gear box?

Unfortunately we are traveling through north NM & AZ and not near any Newmar friendly shop. The good news is that the slide does move in and out evenly. (For now? LOL)

I'm wondering if the slide controller can be adjusted to amp out a bit earlier.

[Algoma]

The trantorque should be tightened to 175 ft/lbs. The controller is not adjustable, but that doesn't sound like your problem.

[knightstorm]

If the bushing is loose it can be tightened with a large pipe wrench if you can’t find the crowfoot and torque wrench.

I had my kitchen slide adjusted by a mobile tech who used his pipe wrench for the job. That slide required a 1-1/2” wrench but the bedroom slide may use a smaller bushing and wrench and different torque spec. Newmar customer support should be able to give you the correct wrench and torque specs.

Your uploaded video is not working on my iPhone so I can’t comment on the shaft motion you are seeing.

[Polyian]

The bushing is definitely slipping. I would loosen it off and inspect it for damage before tightening it again. The internal pieces that tighten around the shaft can be damaged from over tightening so get the correct torque spec from Newmar.
Newmar instructions I have read show 2 torque values, 125# on a 3/4" shaft and 145# on a 1"shaft.
I am surprised that the bushing would loosen on it's own and that's why I think you should inspect it before tightening. Also when you have it apart make sure the other end of the shaft is not frozen.
Here is a link to Newmar's Slide adjustment instructions on Comnet2...
https://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/insta...2013SLPRES.pdf

[Algoma]

Originally Posted by Polyian

The bushing is definitely slipping. I would loosen it off and inspect it for damage before tightening it again. The internal pieces that tighten around the shaft can be damaged from over tightening so get the correct torque spec from Newmar.
Newmar instructions I have read show 2 torque values, 125# on a 3/4" shaft and 145# on a 1"shaft.
I am surprised that the bushing would loosen on it's own and that's why I think you should inspect it before tightening. Also when you have it apart make sure the other end of the shaft is not frozen.
Here is a link to Newmar's Slide adjustment instructions on Comnet2...
https://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/insta...2013SLPRES.pdf

You are correct that those are the torque values from the document, which is very old info by the way.
The reason I stated 175 ft/lbs is that that is the value on the work receipt I got from the Newmar service center when they replaced the drive on my slide-out 3 days ago. The tech. told me they often tighten beyond the spec. due to slipping.

[Polyian]

Originally Posted by Algoma

You are correct that those are the torque values from the document, which is very old info by the way.
The reason I stated 175 ft/lbs is that that is the value on the work receipt I got from the Newmar service center when they replaced the drive on my slide-out 3 days ago. The tech. told me they often tighten beyond the spec. due to slipping.

Interesting, if you have a more recent document from Newmar I think it would be useful to post it here and have 007 add it to the Newmar Tip section.
Until I see an update I will use the info in the document I posted, it worked fine when I adjusted my slide. The document clearly states that the bushing can be damaged from over tightening.
As I suggested, when in doubt call Newmar for the correct spec.

[Sky_Boss]

I decided to put a 15" wrench on the bushing and give it a little nudge. I didn't want to put my full force into it but couldn't get it to budge with a pretty good effort. I didn't want to loosen it at all.

Clearly (at least to me) the motor/slide controller is not "amping out". I'm wondering if putting the controller in the learning mode might help. Does anyone have the instructions to put it in learning mode?

[Polyian]

Originally Posted by Sky_Boss

I decided to put a 15" wrench on the bushing and give it a little nudge. I didn't want to put my full force into it but couldn't get it to budge with a pretty good effort. I didn't want to loosen it at all.

Clearly (at least to me) the motor/slide controller is not "amping out". I'm wondering if putting the controller in the learning mode might help. Does anyone have the instructions to put it in learning mode?

It's clear in your video that the bushing is slipping, the motor is turning and the shaft is not. I don't see how adjusting the controller will stop the bushing from slipping.
When I did my slide adjustment I had to use a 30" breaker bar with the crowfoot wrench to loosen the bushing , I seriously doubt your 15" wrench and a nudge would move it.

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by Algoma

The trantorque should be tightened to 175 ft/lbs. The controller is not adjustable, but that doesn't sound like your problem.

Did Newmar start using a different type controller? Our '02 DSDP had a "pot" to adjust the amps drawn.

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by Polyian

It's clear in your video that the bushing is slipping, the motor is turning and the shaft is not. I don't see how adjusting the controller will stop the bushing from slipping.
When I did my slide adjustment I had to use a 30" breaker bar with the crowfoot wrench to loosen the bushing , I seriously doubt your 15" wrench and a nudge would move it.

Ya...I wasn't to sure that I could move it. LOL Thanks for that info.

Regarding the controller I am hoping that it could re-learn things. However, if the relearning process involves it closing/opening full travel and seeing an amperage to use as a cut off. The question is whether it will "see" a sufficient amperage increase at the end of the travels. This ASSUMES that Rev B has the same learning processes as Rev C.

BTW...I did pull the cover plate off of the controller and I do have Rev B. I think the next step is to have Sandee move the slide in and out to see the current reading on the controller and see if there is a significant amp change at full travel.

I'm still thinking that there is a chance something inside the gear box is potentially wrong. The fact that the left shaft doesn't move and the right one does is perplexing. I would think the left shaft stops would increase motor amps enough to cause the controller to stop. That also sort of makes me hope that if I can get the controller into a learning mode it might protect the motor until we can get it to the factory or service facility.

I'm hoping that we don't suffer a full blown slide failure before I can get a "pro" to look at it.