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Old 09-10-2016, 01:28 PM   #1
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Bedroom slide motor removal

I'm trying to replace the gear/motor assembly on my '07 Canyon Star's rear BR slide as the gear probably has broken. I've removed the bed & frame and have full access to the mechanics. I have read and re-read every related post on the site and viewed all pictures but still have questions about the difficulty in removing the gear/motor.

1) I can easily move the slide in/out using a 1-1/2 wrench. Does this mean that the transtorque is properly disengaged for motor removal? If not, how do I re-engage it?

2) I assume that the shaft is permanently connected to the gears and when the gear/motor are remove some length of shaft will be part of the gear/motor. How long is the shaft that extends from the gear housing? Does it extend beyond the transtorque and 1-1/2 nut? Past the square adapter? Beyond the cog wheel?

3) If I use a "pickle fork" to separate do I position it between the gear housing and the 1-1/2" hex nut?

Thanks.
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Old 09-10-2016, 03:51 PM   #2
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Check the links out in this thread and see if they help, link is from QT's # 3.
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Old 09-10-2016, 04:00 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planopat View Post

1) I can easily move the slide in/out using a 1-1/2 wrench. Does this mean that the transtorque is properly disengaged for motor removal? If not, how do I re-engage it?


Thanks.
I replaced a motor for a kitchen slide where the shaft was 1 inch diameter. Don't know if your trans-torque is the same in yours (probably is) you will know when it's disengaged, loosen it completely and three parts will fall out and then everything will come apart. Easy to re-assemble. I had two of those bushings, one on the shaft and one at the motor gear housing. Mine have to be torqued at 145, yours might be different but will need a specific torque as it has to disengage for protection if anything goes wrong...
I used a crows foot wrench to work mine but under the bed is more accessible so regular wrench may work.
Best of luck!
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Old 09-10-2016, 04:22 PM   #4
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I'll review those again. Thanks.
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Old 09-10-2016, 04:26 PM   #5
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That's good information. Thank you.
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Old 09-10-2016, 04:28 PM   #6
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You will need a Crows foot regardless of where the transtorque bushing is located...the bushing couples two shafts so there is no way to get a socket on the nut thus a crows foot to use the torque wrench.
The Newmar documents 007 pointed you to will indicate the torque settings for both size shafts.
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Old 09-11-2016, 09:50 AM   #7
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You will need a Crows foot regardless of where the transtorque bushing is located...the bushing couples two shafts so there is no way to get a socket on the nut thus a crows foot to use the torque wrench.
The Newmar documents 007 pointed you to will indicate the torque settings for both size shafts.
Thanks for the info. How do I prevent the shaft from turning ( and the slide moving in or out ) when I'm trying to loosen the transtorque. I can easily access the nut with an open end wrench and won't need to apply torque with crows foot until I reinstall.
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Old 09-11-2016, 10:00 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by planopat View Post
Thanks for the info. How do I prevent the shaft from turning ( and the slide moving in or out ) when I'm trying to loosen the transtorque. I can easily access the nut with an open end wrench and won't need to apply torque with crows foot until I reinstall.
I think a 24" pipe wrench on the shaft will hold it from turning.

BTW, those bushings can be tough to break loose, I had to use a 24" breaker bar with the crowfoot on my LR/DR slide to crack it loose...and that took all I had to pull the bar. You might need a helper on the pipe wrench unless you can jam the handle against a 2x4 or something.
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Old 09-12-2016, 11:22 AM   #9
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I think a 24" pipe wrench on the shaft will hold it from turning.

BTW, those bushings can be tough to break loose, I had to use a 24" breaker bar with the crowfoot on my LR/DR slide to crack it loose...and that took all I had to pull the bar. You might need a helper on the pipe wrench unless you can jam the handle against a 2x4 or something.
Got the bushing to release and Motor & Gearbox have been removed. Opened the gearbox to find a broken tooth on large gear. Of course Newmar can't supply the large gear, only the 2 small ones. Had to buy the complete motor/gear assembly @ $480. Now I'll just wait for delivery. Thanks for your input.
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