Bedroom slide out

[150man]

Bedroom Slideout gearbox is broken
No problem finished the trip moving it in and out by hand
New parts are here
4 easy steps
Remove torque bushing
Split the shaft
Slide the new gear box on
Fight with warranty company to get my money back
Got stuck on step one. The bushing will not come off any more than the first 1/8 turn
Been hitting shaft and bushing but still stuck
What am I missing

[Skip426]

Originally Posted by 150man

Got stuck on step one. The bushing will not come off any more than the first 1/8 turn
Been hitting shaft and bushing but still stuck
What am I missing

Nothing ; the trans torque bushing can be a !@#$%$#@! PITA , to remove .

Are you holding a block behind the bushing housing while tapping it ; the shaft bouncing will absorb the impact if the housing can move at all .
Another member went to extremes when his bushing cones would not release .

[tom chelbana]

Since I have done the job of replacing 3 bed room slide out motors I can tell you each has been a 5 to 7 hour job. It is a tight work area which makes the job a real bear to do. Have used pry bars, big hammers and special tools to do the 3.
The best thing I can tell you is to check your slide out motor bolts to see if tight so you don't end up doing this fix. Best to take the bolts out one at a time and put red Lock-tight on all the threads. Better to use a stud and then a double lock nut on the end of the stud with again red Lock-tight also on the lock nuts.
All 3 of these jobs were on late model 2016 or newer coaches.
Newmar Man

[ThunderRidge]

There’s absolutely no excuse that these slide out problems are continuing. A complete lack of concern by Newmar.

[outlawten5]

"LIKE" ThunderRidges" comment

[Bobby Dowdle]

You need to do the one on the motor last. You also need to lift the room outside to take the weight off of the motor area. You will then need to loosen the bearing cage bolts and try to get the shaft as straight as possible. This will help you. You also need a 1 1/2" wrench with a 90* open end on one side And good luck sir.

[150man]

Took 3 advil and going out to try again
Thanks to all
Blocking and unloading the shaft are tops on the list

[NCC-1701A]

Originally Posted by 150man

Took 3 advil and going out to try again

Missed a step ... a chaser shot for the Advil! :-)

I just did my large flat floor slide (not a FW) two weeks ago and it took me an hour of tapping, banging, and shooting PB Blaster into the torque bushing before it begrudgingly released. Laying crunched up in that bay across the rails for the slide trays had me sore for three days.

I used the SLS method with studs (actually large cup point set screws), Nordlok washers, and serrated flange nuts. Since the aluminum threads in the bosses were stretched (I highly doubt they can take the torque of the bolt over time which is one cause of the loosening) I JB Welded the studs in the bosses. Red loctite on the inside serrated nut and blue on the outside.

[tom chelbana]

I have thought of using J&B Weld on the studs and think this might be the answer above the red Lock-Tight. The stud gets a 1/4 more worth of threads in the slide out motor and with J&B Weld would really make it secure attachment of the 4 studs with locking jam nuts. 90% plus of slide out repairs from the many coaches I have checked are caused by loss bolts. Next job will see if that is what to do to stop these expensive and trouble to repair jobs.
Newmar Man

[150man]

Man almost ready to blow 18 years of sobriety on this job
Blocking and removing bolts on rear bearing hangers is what did it I think plus looking at the 3 wedges I think they can take more abuse than what I first thought
Thanks Tom, Bobbie and Skip and everyone else for checking in and posting regularly
Just a few odds and ends to finish in the AM

[150man]

Also
Used the stage 8 system on the bolts