Bedroom slide question

[noserider]

I have noticed lately when I bring in the bedroom slides it seems to act a little sticky. It's starts to come in normal and 1/3 way through or so it seems to hang up very very slightly. When this happens you can hear a slight change in the slide motor as if it's being slowed intermittently. The slide will wiggle slightly from it's normal continuous smooth operation. This is very subtle and others may not notice it unless they were looking for it. This is the same hooked up to external power or generator running so have ruled out a battery issue. Main slide has no issues. The sides seem pretty slippery but I may trying cleaning them up and waxing to ensure a slippery surface. I remember asking on this forum last year when I bought the coach about lubrication and was told by many you don't need to lube these slides. I looked under the slide during operation and all seems to be normal and no slipping. Maybe nothing or the beginning of something I need to check?

[GaryKD]

Hi noserider,
You are correct not to lubricate anything to do with the slides. I understand your situation. Mine is the same. Based on 10 years with my coach, I've found temperature, humidity, wear and power play an important role in how the slide moves. I notice the same little deviations you mentioned. Consider keeping a mental record and see if they:
1. get worse
2. go away
3. come and go depending on the external factors mentioned above
I've gotten to the point where I just watch the slides and remain thankful they deploy and retract when the button is pushed.

[noserider]

Originally Posted by GaryKD

Hi noserider,
You are correct not to lubricate anything to do with the slides. I understand your situation. Mine is the same. Based on 10 years with my coach, I've found temperature, humidity, wear and power play an important role in how the slide moves. I notice the same little deviations you mentioned. Consider keeping a mental record and see if they:
1. get worse
2. go away
3. come and go depending on the external factors mentioned above
I've gotten to the point where I just watch the slides and remain thankful they deploy and retract when the button is pushed.

Thanks Gary. Had to laugh at your number 3 point as I say a little prayer every time I push the button now. I need to look into the manual slide retraction procedures. As of right now I don't know them. I watched a youtube video recently on how to use a jumper wire to bypass the controller but need to review that also as my brain still works fine but my memory has slipped a little.

[GaryKD]

Hi noserider,
If you mean moving a slide when pushing the button fails, this is what I have:
1. portable 12 VDC auto starting battery
2. made some long leads with clips
3. attach the leads to the auto starting battery
4. attach the leads to the slide motor
5. turn the power of the auto starting battery on
WARNING #1: If the leads are on backwards the slide will go in the wrong direction.
6. Turn off the auto starting battery and reverse the leads
WARNING #2: Doing this is bypassing the slide auto stop feature. Watch the slide and one must determine when it is fully extended or retracted.
7. Turn off the auto battery power and disconnect the leads

[noserider]

Originally Posted by GaryKD

Hi noserider,
If you mean moving a slide when pushing the button fails, this is what I have:
1. portable 12 VDC auto starting battery
2. made some long leads with clips
3. attach the leads to the auto starting battery
4. attach the leads to the slide motor
5. turn the power of the auto starting battery on
WARNING #1: If the leads are on backwards the slide will go in the wrong direction.
6. Turn off the auto starting battery and reverse the leads
WARNING #2: Doing this is bypassing the slide auto stop feature. Watch the slide and one must determine when it is fully extended or retracted.
7. Turn off the auto battery power and disconnect the leads

Gary is the procedure your describing for a bad controller. If so why the need for the 12 volt battery and use the jumper method of bypassing the controller using a jumper wire direct on the controller itself using your house batteries? Is it for simplicity?

[Arch Hoagland]

Had the same problem...turns out there was a tooth broken off the gear of the electric motor that runs the slide out. Replaced the gear and all was well.

To get to the motor I had to remove a wooden encasing under the bed that enclosed it.

As far as lubricating...I lube the track and rail assembly under the slideout once a year. Mine requires lubrication.

[noserider]

Originally Posted by Arch Hoagland

Had the same problem...turns out there was a tooth broken off the gear of the electric motor that runs the slide out. Replaced the gear and all was well.

To get to the motor I had to remove a wooden encasing under the bed that enclosed it.

As far as lubricating...I lube the track and rail assembly under the slideout once a year. Mine requires lubrication.

Arch

I was watching the operation of my slide while observing the assembly you are describing. I did not see any teeth missing but will have another look. I have heard of other coach manufacture slides requiring lube. Not sure why the difference in the Newmar slides not needing lubrication. Maybe some of these smart Newmar owners can explain why lube is not needed or required.

[Bill-MACV21]

It would be a good idea to lube/protect the inner and outer slide seal with 303 at least once a year.

[GaryKD]

Hi noserider,
This is for any problem one might have when a slide will not move when the button is pushed. Could be a bad switch, control card, wires or connections. This will not help if the motor is bad. One can do what you suggested using the coach batteries. For me, the jumper wires must be too long. If one is getting 12 VDC from anywhere except the batteries, there may be a problem with the load placed on that circuit. You are correct by saying simplicity. Everything I'm working with is right there with me, within arms reach. If I mess something up the problem is confined to the portable auto battery. I carry the portable auto start battery as part of my tool kit. Over time helped out a bunch of people.

[GaryKD]

Don't know about how other brands of slide are constructed. Newmar slides require no lubrication because it creates more problems than it solves. The slide frame mechanism is large and made in such a way if it works day one it will slide forever. Over time, there is nothing to make it slide better or worse. Most all Newmar owners know the only thing slower than a Newmar slide is death.

The seals are a different story. I agree with post #8.

[noserider]

Originally Posted by GaryKD

Hi noserider,
This is for any problem one might have when a slide will not move when the button is pushed. Could be a bad switch, control card, wires or connections. This will not help if the motor is bad. One can do what you suggested using the coach batteries. For me, the jumper wires must be too long. If one is getting 12 VDC from anywhere except the batteries, there may be a problem with the load placed on that circuit. You are correct by saying simplicity. Everything I'm working with is right there with me, within arms reach. If I mess something up the problem is confined to the portable auto battery. I carry the portable auto start battery as part of my tool kit. Over time helped out a bunch of people.

Great. I have one of those portables. I purchased mine to use as the power source for my toad Brake Buddy instead of using the lighter plug on the toad. That's a whole other discussion. Now I better go find my slide motor. Being a rookie is a full time job.

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In case you ever run into a problem this post should help.