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Old 06-08-2012, 11:45 AM   #1
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black tank flush/water pressure

I normally run a water pressure regulator anytime I am hooked up to water at a RV park. Usually results in pretty low pressure...but I am safe. For flushing the black tank...are any of those lines pressure sensitive..ie...can i remove the regulator and flush even if pressure is pretty high? Thanks
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:56 AM   #2
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I have found that no water pressure devise was ever needed with my Newmars the system is tested for 100 psi.
If you have to use one run direct hose to flush port for full water pressure and clean out your tanks, I have two black tanks.
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Old 06-08-2012, 12:03 PM   #3
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I started by using the small hose that is supplied with the rig and found that the water pressure in the Black Water flush lacked...."positive effect"...so as part of my breakdown routine I put the hose directly from the CG outlet directly on my BW flush water intake and it sped the flusher that whirls around in the tank by 50% and checking the plexiglass attachment I have on my fitting it was apparent there was a difference (description not req'd LOL). So yes I use the CG water supply directly to my BW flush
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Old 06-08-2012, 12:48 PM   #4
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Quote:
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I have found that no water pressure devise was ever needed with my Newmars the system is tested for 100 psi.


Except at the Cam-Plex in Gillette WY where the Newmar Kountry Klub International Rally was held in 2007. They had signs posted warning of high water pressure. The 2012 rally is being held in the same place in 2 weeks, but I don't know if there is still high water pressure.
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:13 PM   #5
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When I first bought my 03 Dutchstar (used), I would connect a seperate hose to the Black Tank Flush because that's what everyone else seemed to do. Monkey see, Monkey Do!
Then one day I figured there is a better way than rolling up hoses all the time.
I bought a Garden Hose Tee with shutoff valves and a short White hose about a foot or so long. I also replaced the Black Tank Flush Connection with a new one that has a Check Valve the same as the Fresh Water connection to prevent any backpressure .
I put the Tee on the House Inlet and connected the CG Water on one side of the Tee and the short hose on the other. The short hose is connected to the Black Tank Flush from the Tee.

When I dump my Black Tank, I close the Fresh Water Supply using the valve at the Tee and then open the other valve on the Tee to allow water into the Black Tank Flush. Works like a charm and now only have to mess with one hose to connect to the CG Water supply.
As for regulators, I agree that when used, the pressure is lowered in the coach. So now I check the pressure at the post before I hook up my hose and if it is over 60PSIG, I install my regulator. If not, I go without.
Knock on wood, so far so good!!!!
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:52 PM   #6
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This is how I fixed all that hose problems. It take a day to do but it works great and one hose.

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Old 06-08-2012, 04:23 PM   #7
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Beacher,

Quite the set-up! Where do the lines to the right of the supply water input (both up and down) go?
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:31 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by litespeed View Post
I normally run a water pressure regulator anytime I am hooked up to water at a RV park. Usually results in pretty low pressure...but I am safe. For flushing the black tank...are any of those lines pressure sensitive..ie...can i remove the regulator and flush even if pressure is pretty high? Thanks
If the pressure through your regulator is too low, get a better regulator. Those non-adjustable in-line ones that Camping World sells are junk. Get a good one that's adjustable with a gauge on it. Like a Watts 263A: RV Water Filter Store: Standard Filter Canisters for Whole RV

joe
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:24 PM   #9
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Bonzocfi the one on the bottom goes to a hand sprayer and the one on the right goes to a built in pressure washer also a sink for washing dishes outside.
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:49 PM   #10
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I have found that no water pressure devise was ever needed with my Newmars the system is tested for 100 psi.
If a system is tested to 100 psi why would you want to run it at pressures near its limits? Normal engineering practice would be to test something to ~2X what you expect to use it at. Furthermore, with no pressure regulator you have no guarantee that you aren't exceeding the 100 psi test pressure.

My MH has a built in regulator and I still use an additional one at the spigot to protect my hoses and hose reel which are ahead of the regulator. To maintain as high a flow rate as possible I use a Watts whole-house regulator; IMHO the RV ones are junk.
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Old 06-10-2012, 06:22 PM   #11
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Beacher...thanks for the info. Always like to see how the other guys do it.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:54 AM   #12
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I have one park I visit where they say right on the check in list that water pressure in the park has been measured at over 100 PSI.

In that park I use a 2-stage regulator setup, Stage one is like 60-70 PSI, Otherwise I use a single stage, the single stage is after the "Y" for the flusher hose.

I'd keep it below 100 PSI, but beyond that the more pressure the better it works.

PEX can take 100 {PSI no problem.. Hose fittings.. not so well.
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:45 AM   #13
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IGet a good one that's adjustable with a gauge on it. Like a Watts 263A: RV Water Filter Store: Standard Filter Canisters for Whole RV

joe
Several 263A listed. Any specific one recommended? I would think 0-160 and not 0-65 .
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:47 AM   #14
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I have the 0-160, stainless steel, oil filled gauge.

joe
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