Brakes smoked

[mtmsfx]

Traveled north on I-17 yesterday. On the long decent into Camp Verde, I used the engine brake for most of the descent, but clearly used my pedal brakes too much because they were smoking a bit when I got off the freeway at the bottom of the hill. Have a 2016 Newmar Ventana LE 3725, Towing a Jeep wrangler, but have Roadmaster Invisibrake installed on it. Question - did I damage anything that needs fixing?

[vtwinwilly]

Depends on how much smoke/heat. My guess is, probably not, but if you're concerned you could take it in and have the brakes inspected. Smoking the brakes will cause the surface to glaze making them less effective. How bad is the question.

Also, You may have warped the disks/drums, so a mechanical inspection might not be a bad idea.

With that said, If you have no signs of warping, and it still stops well, I probably wouldn't worry about it. Again, depends on how much they were overheated.

Last year coming down out of the Blue Mountains (Oregon) I smoked the snot out of my brakes!!! I managed to complete my round trip back to Texas and took it in when I got home. Required a all new shoes and I had 2 warped drums. To be fair, the coach had 155,000 miles on it with the original brakes, so I figured a brake job was probably due.

[AITG]

You can pick up an infrared thermometer at WW Grainger for less than $100. It's a non-contact gun you point and it locks the temperature.
Brakes should stay under 600 degrees. If you get up in that range wait until everything cools down and be sure the lining material is still hard. If you can pick it off with a screwdriver (sort of like fuzz) it has to be replaced.
You can use the gun to check bearing and tire temps every time you stop. It's point and shoot. I carry one to check bearing temperatures on my boat trailer whenever I go any distance.

[mtmsfx]

Btw I only have 4000 miles on the coach and at least 90% has been on mostly flat roads. Are brakes on this coach really that delicate that I've ruined them after one incident of smoke?

[vsheetz]

I have done similar a couple times without causing damage. If they are still working well and feel smooth, I think you are ok.

[Dan McMartin]

Originally Posted by mtmsfx

Btw I only have 4000 miles on the coach and at least 90% has been on mostly flat roads. Are brakes on this coach really that delicate that I've ruined them after one incident of smoke?

It's not that they are delicate necessarily. It's that if the metal gets too hot, it warps when it cools. Same with the pads, though they are cheap compared to turning rotors or buying new ones. The material is altered if it gets too hot. The only advantage to bigger brakes with more stopping power in this case is that they take longer to heat up. If you get them too hot, they could be damaged too.

If you do need new rotors, see about upgrading. I don't know what's available for your chassis but grooved or slotted rotors stay cooler. Larger diameter rotors provide more braking area and, therefore, stay cooler too.

[HavingABlast]

Originally Posted by mtmsfx

Traveled north on I-17 yesterday. On the long decent into Camp Verde, I used the engine brake for most of the descent, but clearly used my pedal brakes too much because they were smoking a bit when I got off the freeway at the bottom of the hill. Have a 2016 Newmar Ventana LE 3725, Towing a Jeep wrangler, but have Roadmaster Invisibrake installed on it. Question - did I damage anything that needs fixing?

"Smoking a bit" is a relative statement. It is hard to judge. I've driven up and down the 17 a few times with a very similar rig. Don't recall smelling heated brakes (that is the first sign). Did you smell heated brakes?

You are concerned, and that is a good healthy response. Not enough info to say one way or the other if you damaged your brakes. But unlikely that you've done serious damage, if any at all.

If you are concerned, a good brake shop should be able to ease your mind. Not far from the base of the junction of I-17 and I-10 is the best Freightliner Oasis Class repair facility that I've been to (haven't been to the mothership in Gaffney yet). They have a dedicated RV department. They also have 5 or so FHU spots for customers.

http://www.fswaz.net/locations/tolleson/

I am having a senior moment on recalling the RV Service Managers name. It was something like Kirk. Excellent customer service.

[azSkier]

Cannot help with the smoking brakes issue, but recommend you make this a learning experience as I did. I came into Las Cruses last fall and at the start of the decent there was a "no engine brake" sign. I turned off my engine brake and rode the whole way down with my service brake. My rotors clearly got hot and I could watch my TPMS values climb.

The next thing I did was to learn how to manually shift the transmission. The next time you find yourself using the service brakes on a downhill, have confidence in manually shifting the transmission into an appropriate, lower gear.

[AITG]

Originally Posted by azSkier

Cannot help with the smoking brakes issue, but recommend you make this a learning experience as I did. I came into Las Cruses last fall and at the start of the decent there was a "no engine brake" sign. I turned off my engine brake and rode the whole way down with my service brake. My rotors clearly got hot and I could watch my TPMS values climb.

The next thing I did was to learn how to manually shift the transmission. The next time you find yourself using the service brakes on a downhill, have confidence in manually shifting the transmission into an appropriate, lower gear.

You want to descend at the same speed that you would climb the hill. Pick the lowest gear that will allow that speed. The engine will wind right up... don't worry about it. Then use your brakes to scrub off speed. If your target speed is 40, let the coach run up to 40-42 or so, then brake down to 35. Release the brakes until you're back up to 40 and apply them again.
That gives them time to cool between applications.

It works.

Originally Posted by Dan McMartin

It's not that they are delicate necessarily. It's that if the metal gets too hot, it warps when it cools. Same with the pads, though they are cheap compared to turning rotors or buying new ones. The material is altered if it gets too hot. The only advantage to bigger brakes with more stopping power in this case is that they take longer to heat up. If you get them too hot, they could be damaged too.

If you do need new rotors, see about upgrading. I don't know what's available for your chassis but grooved or slotted rotors stay cooler. Larger diameter rotors provide more braking area and, therefore, stay cooler too.

[mtmsfx]

Originally Posted by HavingABlast

"Smoking a bit" is a relative statement. It is hard to judge. I've driven up and down the 17 a few times with a very similar rig. Don't recall smelling heated brakes (that is the first sign). Did you smell heated brakes?

You are concerned, and that is a good healthy response. Not enough info to say one way or the other if you damaged your brakes. But unlikely that you've done serious damage, if any at all.

If you are concerned, a good brake shop should be able to ease your mind. Not far from the base of the junction of I-17 and I-10 is the best Freightliner Oasis Class repair facility that I've been to (haven't been to the mothership in Gaffney yet). They have a dedicated RV department. They also have 5 or so FHU spots for customers.

http://www.fswaz.net/locations/tolleson/

I am having a senior moment on recalling the RV Service Managers name. It was something like Kirk. Excellent customer service.

Thank you! Yes, his name is Kirk. Left him a message to call me.

[HavingABlast]

I've been told (haven't or won't research this legality) that the RV type engine brakes are exempt from those warning signs. This is just me, but I ignore those signs while driving my rig. I use both transmission and engine braking on long declines in addition to "brake stabbing" to take me 5mph under my targeted decent speed.

[JC2]

Originally Posted by HavingABlast

I've been told (haven't or won't research this legality) that the RV type engine brakes are exempt from those warning signs. This is just me, but I ignore those signs while driving my rig. I use both transmission and engine braking on long declines in addition to "brake stabbing" to take me 5mph under my targeted decent speed.

x2

[Dan McMartin]

Another piece of advice. Unhook your Jeep on steep grades, up or down. Taking that extra weight off your MH will help with the brake problem.

Of course, that assumes you carry a passenger with you.

[DAJO]

Originally Posted by HavingABlast

I've been told (haven't or won't research this legality) that the RV type engine brakes are exempt from those warning signs. This is just me, but I ignore those signs while driving my rig. I use both transmission and engine braking on long declines in addition to "brake stabbing" to take me 5mph under my targeted decent speed.

Me too the signs are for trucks, the ones that make so much noise using the brakes you can hear them a mile away. I have the true Jake type brake and it hardly makes any noise.