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Old 10-15-2021, 01:05 PM   #15
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Here are a couple pictures of Stocky Falls


I don't know why I can't post the photos instead of the links.
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Old 10-15-2021, 01:31 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Capt Van View Post
Here are a couple pictures of Stocky Falls


I don't know why I can't post the photos instead of the links.
Ahhh, I never looked at your original links, which included a drawing, or I wouldn't have suggested a drive through approach (to pull a toad in behind it).
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Old 10-15-2021, 02:16 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by tnedator View Post
Ahhh, I never looked at your original links, which included a drawing, or I wouldn't have suggested a drive through approach (to pull a toad in behind it).
That would be great but can't do it because it has to be attached to the house
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Old 10-15-2021, 02:39 PM   #18
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Six inch 4k psi concrete should be adequate enough to hold a heavier coach than yours. I would also suggest a 16' wide door over a 14' wide. That extra couple of feet in door width sure is nice backing my coach in compared to a friends 14' wide door.

I built a 50x60x16 several years ago and have the RV bay separated by a wall which allows me to keep the coach nice and clean without any dust getting on it while I'm working in the shop portion of the building. I would also suggest not skimping on lighting and electrical. I have about 80 foot/candles to the floor in the RV bay and just over 100 ft/candles in the shop and it is great. I put a 50-amp plug mid-way down the one wall where I plug my coach in and then I also put another 50-amp plug right inside of the overhead door as a "buddy plug" for when friends stop by to plug into. They can back up to my RV bay door and plug in. That way I don't have an ugly receptacle on the outside of my shop.
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Old 10-15-2021, 06:04 PM   #19
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We built a MH garage two and years ago and included:
* 14 wide x 15 high overhead door with side mounted “Overhead Door” opener. ( 14’ wide is easy to navigate in or out. I wouldn’t go less than 15’ high. Most coaches are about 13’-4, 13-6”, you get any kind of an incline to your approach and you could hit!)

* 2 side entry doors, front and back for circulation.

* 50 amp left wall toward overhead door, 50 amp right wall toward front. This gives you ability to pull in or back in.

* Exhaust fan , rear wall , up high to pull fumes and heat out.

* Lighting fixtures in the ceiling closer to walls, down each side of coach, not over coach. You need to be able to see when slides are out.
Go LED’s.

* 16’ ceiling is good, along with ceiling and wall insulation.
During the big Texas freeze this year when temps went into the teens for a 10 days, our garage never dropped below 59 degrees.
No furnace, just ceiling and wall insulation.

* If you have a water softener at the house, have them plumb a soft water line for your water supply. Makes it great for washing or filling fresh water tank.

* Lastly have a civil engineer spec your foundation for your climate, soil, and weight. A little extra expense, but then you will not be facing problems down the road.
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Old 10-15-2021, 08:52 PM   #20
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On the floor slab, the sub grade is the most important part. Make sure to compact the subgrade good. Need to make sure there is good drainage under the slab too. The heavy duty sheet wire mesh should be good. Rebar spaced far apart is not much good. Pour 4000 psi concrete. Saw cut concrete after the pour. Concrete is going to crack , no big deal
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Old 10-15-2021, 09:16 PM   #21
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You said LP heat.

I went with mini-split for heat and A/C. The A/C isn't as much for cooling as it is humidity control. I keep it at about 80-85 in the summer just to wring out some moisture.
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Old 10-17-2021, 10:10 AM   #22
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I used 14’x14’ doors and find the size easily accommodates our MH. I used 5.5” 4000 psi concrete with heavy wire mesh. Have not had any cracking issues. I agree with others that prep and compaction are key. I installed 30 amp service inside with 50 amp outside. 30 amp inside is plenty as I don’t plan on living in it. LED lighting with white liner panel for interior.
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Old 10-17-2021, 01:04 PM   #23
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We did 31’x 51’ with a 22’x 14’ door. This way the entire inside space is easily accessible. Our stacker trailer is easier to back in also.
50 amp outlets at back third on the sides, one at the center rear, and one at the front exterior wall.

Water softener points at rear of garage and front exterior wall.

Domestic water at rear of garage.

Sewer dumps in slab at back third of depth. One on each side and one in the middle.

We also upgraded to a 400amp main service.

3m makes great warehouse striping tape so once you decide the final locations, you can mark the slab.

A lot of great suggestions on here.
Good luck.
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Old 10-17-2021, 03:30 PM   #24
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Be sure to order four thousand pound mud vs the three thousand pound normally delivered. Now days in order to stretch concrete they put fly ash in the mud. I would use 6 inch mesh and also have them deep cut the concrete so when it cracked, it does so in a straight line...good luck!
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Old 10-18-2021, 10:39 AM   #25
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here is my 2 cents worth... take it for what it is worth... Many good comments here on the concrete slab here. the majority of the cracking you see in slabs on grade is due to shrinkage, caused primarlily to improper curing and not cutting the control joints deep and in a timely fashion. Your contractor I am sure will know this but if not, request he either wet cure, or apply a chemical cure immediately after the slab is hard enough to walk on, and cut the control joints before he leaves for the day as soon as it is walkable. There are saws that contractors will use called soft cut specifically for this so the cutting does not chip the concrete. ACI recommends SOG be cut every 20 to 25 feet, seems like a lot but it will control cracking, and we know concrete cracks....

PS: 4000 psi and wire mesh is fine for your needs, the key to a successful concrete slab starts with the stone if it is outside for drainage or a crushed item 4 processed material compacted if it is an indoor slab....don't forget a vapor barrier 6 mil is fine, and perimeter 2" rigid insulation 2 feet from the exterior edge in.. and vertically around the edge.
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Old 10-19-2021, 10:03 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by tnedator View Post
I think your dimensions look good. I'm 50' x 24'. At the time I had a 30' coach and didn't think I would ever go bigger, so I'm a tight squeeze at 50'. Your 70 is nice, since if you have a toad, you would have room to have it in there too, such as hooking up in the rain.

I couldn't build where I live, so was originally looking to purchase a lot just for this, with ideally a pull through concept. In the end, my sister and brother in law talked me into building on their land rather than buying a lot, and therefore I downsized to what I thought the minimum that would fit me. My original plan was 60x24, thinking that would fit my 30' coach plus toad behind it.

If your lot supports it, and many don't, having a second overhead door on the other end could be handy, such as to pull your toad in behind your RV -- again in case the weather is bad, which can let you hook up under cover.

I went with rebar and either double or triple fiber, and I "think" 6", but it might have been 5".

I'm similar with LP heating, insulation, dump and 50/15 amp service (didn't wire 30 amp, but not for any good reason).

I went with closed cell foam insulation, as it does a good job as a vapor barrier (although truth be told I'm not thick enough for full vapor barrier function).

I also put in a temp controlled attic type fan on the back wall near the peak, and on each side near the front I have holes something like 24"x36" and have louvered and screened coverings. This is to allow some air flow in the Arkansas summers. I have pieces of plywood, with 2" of pink poly foam insulation on them, so in the winter I put them in place (foam towards the outside, plywood inside) to seal up the lower vents.

I will say, it's unbearable to work on the RV in the summer, so I think late this spring, I'm going to have another 1 to 1.5" of foam applied and then put an air conditioning unit in.
Thanks for the info, couple questions
Could you tell me more about the closed cell insulation, how thick would have had done? What does it look like, could you share a picture or 2?
Do you remember what the name and model exhaust fan you went with?

Thanks again
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Old 10-19-2021, 02:04 PM   #27
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The only thing I will add is mount the lighting on the side walls about 10 ft up, not so much on the ceiling, I generally don't care how well lit the roof of my coach is when it is in the shed, instead I care about the sides, looking into the engine compartment, storage compartments, etc. Of course I don't have standing headroom while on the roof inside the shed to do much roof maintenance either.

If I were to build an RV garage from scratch knowing what I know now, I would add a small service pit to change oil, etc., a utility sink and dump station, ideally I would also add a bathroom with shower.
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Old 10-19-2021, 03:23 PM   #28
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What’s the cost of such a project? 100k? 200k?

At some point paying for covered storage or an annual detail makes more sense…

I’ve thought about doing it, but would be cheaper to buy some farmland with an old barn on it…
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