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Old 10-22-2021, 07:47 PM   #99
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Septic system: if you are keeping tabs on cost…septic system cost place holder…$10k to $15k.

Oil sand/ separator…$6k to $8k.

If you can’t do a septic system and you need to discharge to the city utilities…or if your garage is lower than the sewer main out in the street and you need to collect in a manhole and grind/pump out to the street…allow $8k to $10k.
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Old 10-23-2021, 08:26 AM   #100
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Be sure the sewer "dump " is lower than your foundation.
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Old 10-23-2021, 11:35 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by dvredc5 View Post
Congratulations on building your new garage. Just finished our new RV garage this year and it’s so rewarding to finally be able to keep our coach here at home rather than in a costly storage facility. You will just love it. I planned well in advance but it seems like you never think of it all so great you are asking for input. We have a 44 foot coach and I would have really wanted 60’ deep garage but for budget reasons we ended up with 34’ by 50’. It works very well but we can’t open the front generator compartment or rear engine access grill without opening the garage door so bigger would be better if you can afford it. Here was my list of must haves we incorporated into our project:



RV dump station with 500 gallon tank and fresh water spigot for cleaning.

Separate wash tub/sink with a small on demand hot water heater.

Cold and hot water sil cock with mixing valve to provide warm water for washing.

Trough style floor drain that runs across the width of the garage about 1-1/2 feet inside the overhead door.

The floor is sloped 6” back to front to promote draining into the floor trough. By code we needed it connected to a triple basin catch system.

50amp RV plug

220 plugs on each wall.

Numerous 110 volt outlets on each wall.

Ceiling fan.

Ceiling mounted gas heater.

16’ high walls.

28’ by 14’ single 2” insulated overhead door. Provides east access with no worries about a post if we had 2 doors.

Air compressor with 50’ hose reel.

Electric cord reels on each wall. (We also store some of our cars inside and makes for easy battery maintenance charger connections.)

12 LED high bay ceiling lights switched in 3 different rows.

3 LED wall lights on each side wall - needed to provide light as t coach blocks some of the overhead lighting. These have 1 fixed and 1 positional light in each unit. Again switched on separate switches.

Residential refrigerator where we keep our normally used items for RV trips as well as east access for water & drinks while working in the garage. (No need to run the coach fridge unless we are going on a trip.)

Epoxy coated floor - priceless for looks and keeping the garage clean.

Wall mounted garage vacuum.

Some base and wall cabinets for storage, cleaning, vehicle washing and a counter top for a workbench.

A center mounted LED “parking lot” light at the peak for lighting the driveway area when needed if we are leaving or coming home at night. On a separate wall switch.

Motion activated LED lights also on the front for security as well as providing lighting when needed.

Side porch with a lower roof for esthetics as well as functionality to provide a large overhang for protection over side entrance door. Makes for nicer loading unloading of supplies etc. if it’s raining. Our faces our side and rear yard and pond.

Exterior outlets so you can add landscaping and/or holiday lighting if wanted.

2 by 6 walls for adequate insulation.

Use semi-gloss or Matt finish paint - NOT flat interior paint for easier cleaning.

Dehumidifier with auto pump to reduce humidity.

Stereo system - must have music while I tinker in the garage.

A few windows for natural light but place up high on the walls for better security.

Adequate strength in the slab for your current coach as well as for something heavier if you are ever considering a larger heavier coach.

If you plan on washing and splashing a lot of dirt and water around consider a plastic or highly water resistant wall panel on the first feet up from the floor rather than just drywall.

We skipped any exhaust outlets in the wall or garage door to better protect from rodents and animals from getting inside. I’ll pull the coach outside the few times needed when not being used to run the diesel, generator and aqua hot. Good idea to also use the jacks, transmission, brakes and moving it will force us to do that.

No outside gutters, I hate cleaning them and here in northern IL they cause ice dams in the winter months. Instead we have 2’ of stone around the perimeter so roof run off won’t ruin grass or landscaping and won’t splash dirt onto the siding. We laid drain tile for proper drainage and we have a sloped lot so this works well for us. Might not work well for a flat site.



Have fun and enjoy the process and the end result!
@dvredc5 - better idea on the door (28x14l)... can you provide specifics on manufacturer, distributor, cost and added strength needed for support? Pics would also be much appreciated. I was considering aircraft hangar doors, but...
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Old 10-23-2021, 11:50 AM   #102
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I built a 50x60 hangar/RV steel building. Walls are 14 ft, but plenty of head room with trussed roof. Huge footings below the 40x14 bi-fold door and truss supports below the frost line. Insulation (2” solid) along the foundation. Insulated ceiling only for noise and summer heat.



Compacted stone below 5” fiber/concrete floor, saw cut crack reliefs. Sloped floor 1”/10ft. In NH floor drains and maintenance pits (unless ventilated) aren’t allowed. Full hookups, 50A. Holes in knee wall for generator and Hydro-hot.



15x20 workshop for me, 15x20 art studio for the DW. Mezzanine above both for storage. Currently living in the MH while our house is built. All our furniture, house stuff and Piper Cub are also in the hangar.



30 2x4 LED lights on the ceiling. Building side faces true south for solar panels on roof. No heat/cooling except in the studio as we’re snowbirds.



I was planning on a ‘normal’ foundation until my structural engineer son-in-law looked at the wind loads on the building. I had to hire an engineer on short notice to design the foundation. The foundation and floor cost nearly as much as the building.



Good luck with your project!



Walt
@photopilot - as a fellow pilot, I am also thinking a hangar door is a great option, albeit a more expensive one. Who did you source your door from? Schweiss? Diamond? Other? Did you hire a separate contractor for the steel and the door install? It's your entire structure steel? I'm leaning that direction...

I wish I could use my street as a landing strip... life would be perfect I wonder what the roof load factor would have to be if I crossover to a helicopter, like a Rotorway... yeah, right!
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Old 10-24-2021, 01:25 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by pflightnut View Post
@photopilot - as a fellow pilot, I am also thinking a hangar door is a great option, albeit a more expensive one. Who did you source your door from? Schweiss? Diamond? Other? Did you hire a separate contractor for the steel and the door install? It's your entire structure steel? I'm leaning that direction...

I wish I could use my street as a landing strip... life would be perfect I wonder what the roof load factor would have to be if I crossover to a helicopter, like a Rotorway... yeah, right!
Schweiss Bi-fold hangar door $11K. Built the building and installed the door myself. Rented a Lull and a scissor lift. 11x7 ft footings under the door supports. Building by Worldwide Steel Buildings, all steel except one wall sided in wood for aesthetics. Couldn’t find a contractor to build because I didn’t order the building from them. Took me 4 months from ground breaking to closed in building. Good thing I’m retired! Lost 15 lbs.! Still have interior work to do.

Bi-fold doors require specific building structure. ‘Hydro-swing’ doors have their own support independent of the building.

Walt
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Old 10-24-2021, 05:40 PM   #104
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Schweiss Bi-fold hangar door $11K. Built the building and installed the door myself. Rented a Lull and a scissor lift. 11x7 ft footings under the door supports. Building by Worldwide Steel Buildings, all steel except one wall sided in wood for aesthetics. Couldn’t find a contractor to build because I didn’t order the building from them. Took me 4 months from ground breaking to closed in building. Good thing I’m retired! Lost 15 lbs.! Still have interior work to do.



Bi-fold doors require specific building structure. ‘Hydro-swing’ doors have their own support independent of the building.



Walt
Thanks Walt. I'm not retired, unless I opt to do so a year early in April. I like the extra usable overhead space the trusses give. And using a hangar door gives more flexibility getting equipment in and out. Since the opening will be facing south, the door will also provide some added shade when it's open. Lots of decisions before I break ground!
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Old 10-26-2021, 05:31 PM   #105
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First, I would get some input on the slab size and design from a competent PE Engineer. This depends a lot on your soil conditions. I have a Super C and live just west of the Dallas/Ft. Worth area and my engineer added piers underneath and a 10” slab with #5 Rebar on 12” centers and I am. Only dealing with a 27,000 LB unit not 40,000+ like you are. Other considerations are in addition to those comments attached are to use large LED Shop light fixtures, my shop is 40X30 and I have 4 fixtures and could have used a couple more. I added another door out the back side of my shop so I could pull the rig out rather than back in/out. So great. I had a small panel added that provided circuit breakers for all the RV connections plus the 120V outlets. Install from the overhead iron 2-3 pul down roll up extension cords. I use these everyday rather than drag an extension cord around. Harbor freight has these cheap! Add a couple of 120V plugs outside, one for heat tape to wrap the pump/Faucet handle with. I keep all my tools out there and have a nice shop to work on anything with the RV. Lastly from the overhead iron, hang a couple of safety hitches so you can tie off your self while on the roof. Good luck!
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Old 10-27-2021, 03:06 AM   #106
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We have a 2022 DS 4369 on order so it looks like a new garage is on the horizon. I'm building a 30' x 70' x 16' with a 14' x 14' OHD.

First, does anyone know the weight of the coach? I'm going to go with a 6" slab with fiber, might also add rebar.

Looking for suggestions anything that you have or would have done.

Some of what I have planed so far

Insulation, LP heat, 20/30/50 amp service, sewer dump.

Here is a drawing of what it will be

https://photos.app.goo.gl/nZSgDAS1U5sgJqjPA

https://photos.app.goo.gl/1zPQoprccWgs89fN7

http://https://photos.app.goo.gl/dt4QeY3mGhhhQYhn7

This about what it will look like

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZDaFSHReFm1wsrVe7

Thanks for any input.

My own view is without question rebar. Concrete C35 grade especially if using the slab for post supports. Fibres are useful but likely not required for this slab. Your concrete batching supplier will advise. Depending on your climate and time of year of the pour, consider some added retardant to slow the thermal setting down and pour water hourly for 12 hours if warm. Will reduce cracking. If in very cold/wet climate, consider poly barrier sheet before pouring.

in the long run small extra cost for the above. Just one view.
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Old 10-28-2021, 08:18 PM   #107
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I've read with interest all of this as we are also moving and planning to build a combo barn for our 4310 plus cars, workshop and storage. LOTS of great info here, so thanks to all! One thing to point out: the weight info you have is probably close but don't forget your payload. Here are the '21 DS4369 specs including the 10,600 payload. We'll be planning ours for the max for tummy comfort - 26 tons on the RV section of the floor.
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Old 10-28-2021, 11:51 PM   #108
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Looks nice! We're looking at doing something similar. In my opinion, 6" poor is overkill when 4" with fiber and rebar should work just fine. I'd look up the specs on your rig online to get approximate weights. It would be great to see the end product. Good luck!
AFMSGTRET- 4" thick concrete is fine for walkways, sidewalks & patios but not heavy enough for 45,000# + vehicles! 6" 6 bag mix (540# of Portland cement/yard) reinforced with # 4 rebar on 12" centers or #6 rebar on 16"centers- all set up on 3" chairs is the correct way to go. Be sure your rock base -6" min- is compacted to at least 95%. Saw control joints every 120-144 SF & you'll have a crack free good heavy floor for your coach. Been there - done this several times!

I've installed over 3 million SF of concrete slab on grade in my businesses & learned how to do it correctly.

Happy Trails
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Old 10-29-2021, 09:54 AM   #109
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Has anyone used in floor heat?


When I built my 36 x 48 (too short) pole barn, the cement guy said he would put in the floor heat tubing in the concrete for $3k. The other expense would be adding a small boiler or hot water heater. Wish I would have done it.
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