Can a locked exterior door still come open?

[Leland0311]

I lock all exterior storage doors before driving off. It's part of my walk-around. I'm a long time pilot. I triple check things. I say these words out loud: lock sideways (meaning it's locked) as I walk around examining the doors.

So, after driving on the road all day, I exit and at a red light, a car is honking it's horn and signaling me that something is wrong. DW opens the entry door and sees the front storage door, closest to the front entry door, is open. She slams the door shut, and I pull over.

I"m thinking maybe I didn't lock the door but see the door is locked. I try to open it and can't. I unlock it, everything looks fine, and lock it again.

I've examined the lock, experimented with it, always keep it lubed, can't find a thing wrong here. I can't pull the door open when it's locked. IT's possible to open the door, lock it while open, slam it, and it's locked.

I don't want this happening again. I might duct tape it and ask the factory for advice as I travel there next week.

Any advice or clue as to what's happening? I know I locked the door. It had to open while locked. No big bumps on the highway. 3,000 miles of road and this is a first.

[tom chelbana]

We have a 18 LA and had a Essex that had the cabinet doors open during travel. Did adjust the latch for a tighter fit. And yes the doors can open even if the doors are locked. We go around before we leave to push the cabinet doors hard which 99% now we don't have that problem. Last time out we saw a KA with a cabinet door opening going down 10 here in California. Adjust and push hard.

[Rollin101]

All that locking the external doors does is lock the handles. Doesn't physically lock the doors to the frame. So the short answer is yes they can come open even if handles are locked.

[Luv2go]

On our Canyon Star, the door can look latched but is not, the gas shocks will keep it closed until you go over a big bump. Don't ask me how I know.

[Ljwt330]

I suspect the tongue of the door latch, not the lock, is the problem. Not knowing your set up, my guess is the tongue is separating from the catch or holder in the frame of the compartment due to twisting/vibration while driving. I know on my coach the tongue faces downward into a loop that is affixed to the bottom frame rail. I could easily see where if the tongue is just barely inserted into the loop, some twist or movement of the frame could cause the tongue to slip out. YMMV.

[nothermark]

If the frame where the latch mounts can flex enough the latch will disengage while driving. I would be looking at that as a first cut. The latch might be able to be adjusted to increase the latch bite or the frame might be able to be stiffened.

[V3600]

Bay doors coming open is fairly common as motorhomes flex, especially coming out of driveways. Where I work we always check the mirrors coming out of the dealership for open bays.

I forget which diesel Class A I was driving but twice I had the main entry door come open going down the interstate. Now I use the deadbolt.

[Stuart W]

If you have compartment latch that is barely engaging when closed and locked, a flex of the frame could cause the gas struts to open it.

[NealC]

Wouldn’t it be nice if Newmar actually had an indicator that a door is not closed? Ya know, like we have in cars? Trivial to add for them and can save thousands in repair costs. Basement doors are not cheap to repair. I know!!

[Dutch Star Don]

When I read your post, the first thing that came to mind is what "Stuart W" wrote. The "U" shape bracket on the door frame probably needs some adjustment. The lock is catching, but not fully engaging, allowing the retractable latch mechanism to fully engage. It can be just barely reaching behind the "U" shaped bracket and allowing it to slip out when the coach flexes. You might want to adjust the arm out an 1/8" away from the coach body so the latch can get behind the arm fully.

[Craig36]

I had that problem with my 2007 Kountry Star. Took to the RV repair center twice only to have one of the doors open a third time. Typically the same doors that had just been adjusted.

Finally, I found out the secret on mine.

I took off the plastic housing cover over the lock mechanism and discovered the lock assembly was held on by only two sheet metal screws and they were loose. This allowed the locked assembly to wiggle side to side, and ultimately forced open when going over bumps.

I applied Locktite and tightened it up. Checked all other bins and most were somewhat loose.

[Bob_C]

Could washer up the striker plate...

[Mike and Cha]

That has happened on ours when We first got it. I adjusted all the latches and made sure the U shaped bracket was adjusted so the latches were fully engaged. It hasn't happened since but I still always double check them after leaving a CG especially if we have driven over speed bumps or steep site curbs where the MH might flex a little bit.

[Algoma]

For some reason, Newmar decided that on the 4311 floorplan the basement door for the pegboard bay would be hinged at the rear; i.e. a "suicide" door. Needless to say, last year the door flew open while traveling down the road and the wind pressure tore out the gas spring and the door was left rubbing against the drive wheel. A trucker pulled alongside and pointed that I had a problem so I pulled over and found the issue before I had traveled too far. Now I go around and actually push each door hard against the latch on each door to make sure each is firmly closed.
As some have said, locking the handle does nothing to ensure the door is properly closed.