Carpet or Hardwood?

[Spk64]

Tonight I decided to go ahead and get started replacing the carpet in the bedroom. The PO had already put new carpet on the front slide and supplied me with the carpet for the bedroom.
Here I am just getting ready to dismantle the bed and tear up the carpet.

And starting to rip it out. As others indicated lots of staples in many areas.
This is not the first time the carpet was replaced as you can see where the original is still under the cabinets.

Here is a shot with the engine cover removed. Lots easy access to the motor when it is opened up.

And about 50 minutes later all the carpet is up. Still have many staples to pull out. Along with replacing the pad.


Now to my question Carpet or Hardwood?
My plan all along was to put the carpet in the PO supplied. But after working to rip it all out I was thinking hardwood might look much better and hold up better. Also I have no problems working with wood so trimming everything out is a piece of cake. I am a confessed tool junkie so have all the needed tools.

I can handle putting the carpet back in and it is free.


My thoughts were if I am going through this trouble of tearing out and replacing. Probably should out something back that will last and be a visual upgrade. New carpet just does not seem to fit being an upgrade as it is still carpet.

[Finelinevan]

Do the hardwood/ High grade laminate will hold up better. I did and have been so happy I pulled the dirty carpet out. I do flooring, finishing and cabinet work so it was another job to me and had all the tools. If you lay wood flooring or (good laminates with attached foam backing now looks so real and hold up nice) you will need to do base molding and 3/4 quater round to finish the floor out nice where it meet wals and quater round under cabinets. You need to do a floating floor either laminate or manufactured solid wood surfaced that locks like laminate. The floor needs to float not be nailed down to plywood and move due to temp changes in coach. I added oak molding stained and matched it all to cabinets and it really adds to total look since not many Rv factories do molding its a nice upgrade along with floor and wall making the job a perfect finish.Even though the carpet you get is free the wood floor will really add value to the coach and if you keep it for year the carpet will get dirty and hold odors;
Here is how mine came out. I did throw a nice Belgium carpet over living room area floor over wood and it really gave the coach a warm feel and cozy look though I dont have pictures of carpet to show right now.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=bef700a26f

[Spk64]

That looks nice.
I was just starting to dig into the best route to go. Staple,Glue or floating. Did not think about the temp and humidity changes. Floating will move better.
Here is a little Photoshop rendering for my wife to approve. (She already has as she loves her hardwood in our S&B.
Excuse the PS just a quick mockup.

["007"]

Question for both of you the rollers on bed frame will they collect dirt or grit and scratch your new floor?
I had a wood floor in the kitchen area and LR slide rollers would pick up grit and dent indentations would appear on dark wood surface.
From than on I would sweep the wood floor to prevent any further action by rollers & grit.
A good looking job Spk64 and thanks for the pictures can use them for reference how bedroom slide is laid out, will be adding your new bedroom floor in QT's # 3.

[Spk64]

007
Have not came up with a solution for the rollers on the new floor. As you stated these rollers are carrying the bed frame and bed. I have read of others using a swiffer to dust before moving the slide.
Once I get the floor in will review the options closer and post back what we decide to do.

Steve

[Ernie Ekberg]

most of the weight is located on the middle rail. There are 2 rollers that are permanently mounted on the stepup of the slide. All will be fine

[Spk64]

Thanks Ernie
I have read many of your post and will be taking your advice to glue down with high quality urethane adhesive.

[Finelinevan]

The slideout I have are set higher rollers are set differently and dont roll on floor. If you use a good laminate I dont think it will depress into it.

[Finelinevan]

Thats a nice look. I think you will be happy with floating floor. Remember your only doing a small area compared to a room in a house buy the best grade laminate ( MAYBE ONLY NEED 4 BOXES) they sell not only does it look like real wood, its better engineered harder, plus it has the foam insalation attached to each board eliminating lumps and issues installing it. I went with single look boards 5 inch width that when I was installed looked like individual real wood boards. Remember to stagger each row so the seams dont meet up close. So many people make this mistake laying laminate you (if ya dont already know this) Really keep the seams at leat 16 inchs apart on and across at least 3 rows, You will waste a couple boards but its well worth the finished look. A busy pattern not as critical to the look but even there 10 inches will look best and a natural layment. Good Luck I really enjoyed doing mine. Remember the Base Moldings and quater round to hide the space you need to put so floor floats. The molding gives it a household finished look that adds to the look of the floor and coach when its all done. Laminate will outlast carpet and easier to clean. Then throw a nice scater rug over areas.

[danleininger]

You could always lay down a Slide Roller Protector and let it take the beating. The tile in my Essex has started to mark from the rollers so I'm about to invest in some protection. That will be way cheaper than replacing the tile.

The floor will look great!!!

[Spk64]

I may have a little setback in getting this floor back in quickly. Went out tonight to try and locate the flooring I found online and no one had it in stock. Hopefully I can locate something tomorrow otherwise I have to order it or choose a style we really did not like. Bummer!

[Spk64]

I ended up finding some flooring like we wanted. Had to go to 5" wide though.
Got side tracked today putting in a 50 amp plug. It was nice and cool with rain so the attic was tolerable to be working in. My run from the panel was not the easiest. Panel in basement on opposite side of house. Had some areas to feed wires from attic down to basement and also down garage walls. Yay now we can plug in and cool down the coach before a trip and can cool it down to work inside. Running generator was noisy and kills grass unless I put something down.
planning on extending this out further from garage and adding a real rv box later.
Now back on topic. I did get my first row glued down so it can setup and I can finish out the floor tomorrow. I still need to locate some trim pieces to finish out the slide and engine cover.

The flooring shop had a pallet of this that that they ordered for someone and then it was canceled said I might be able to get the rest much cheaper. Got me thinking about getting rid of the other carpet on the slide.
Since this is a drop down slide with a carpet flap. Not sure the correct approach to adding hardwood.

[Ernie Ekberg]

the engine cover access panel usually is not the same level as the area it sits on. You will have an outside corner for your trim which may be a little sharp.
I add plywood for flat floor sides so that the drop down part of stair nose rests on the main floor when extended.

[Spk64]

Thanks Ernie. Looks like our coach either was made with the cover being close to flush or a PO added a panel.

My plan at this point is to make a stair nose and then I can radius the sharp corner. This may not be a perfect match nor have the tough aluminum oxide finish but will be a close match as I will use cherry and stain to match. With the beveled ends I may be able to just remove the tongue and have a butt joint between the cover and the fixed portion. Will still need to deal with the small elevated area under the slide.