Changing Oasis boiler fluid

[palehorse89]

I have read on here, watched ITR's video, and have a couple question's for getting ready to change the boiler fluid in my Oasis system.
After the drain and fill lines are extended out of the basement , thinking I was going to use air pressure to force the old fluid out of the system, how much air pressure should be used to do this?

Do you clamp off the different zones so the air just pushes the fluid out of one zone at a time? Just wondering as the air pressure will take the path of least resistance and maybe leave old fluid in another zone.......?

Do you flush the system with distilled water? and then use air to blow the distilled water out?
Or do you just put the drain line in a separate 5 gallon pail and pump the new boiler fluid in till the drain line looks like the new Century fluid color?

Is it ok to use a Sureflo 4048 4 gpm water pump for this task? I believe I also have a Sureflo 3.5 gpm spare pump also.

Thanks in advance

[Mr. T]

If you don't get a satisfactory response, just give them a call in the morning.
They're very helpful.

[Kevin Bell]

Originally Posted by palehorse89

I have read on here, watched ITR's video, and have a couple question's for getting ready to change the boiler fluid in my Oasis system.
After the drain and fill lines are extended out of the basement , thinking I was going to use air pressure to force the old fluid out of the system, how much air pressure should be used to do this?

Do you clamp off the different zones so the air just pushes the fluid out of one zone at a time? Just wondering as the air pressure will take the path of least resistance and maybe leave old fluid in another zone.......?

Do you flush the system with distilled water? and then use air to blow the distilled water out?
Or do you just put the drain line in a separate 5 gallon pail and pump the new boiler fluid in till the drain line looks like the new Century fluid color?

Is it ok to use a Sureflo 4048 4 gpm water pump for this task? I believe I also have a Sureflo 3.5 gpm spare pump also.

Thanks in advance

I have attached the flushing instructions for the ITR Chinook which outlines the procedures as we perform them. If you are going to use compressed air, it MUST be regulated at 10PSI or lower or you could seriously damage the system. The 4048 pump should work well for you.

[palehorse89]

Originally Posted by Kevin Bell

I have attached the flushing instructions for the ITR Chinook which outlines the procedures as we perform them. If you are going to use compressed air, it MUST be regulated at 10PSI or lower or you could seriously damage the system. The 4048 pump should work well for you.

Thank you so much Kevin! The last time it was changed was when I bought my Essex from your Dallas location, they pumped the new fluid in till the drain line going into another bucket started to turn from brown to the Century green color, I stood there and watch. Thank you for the instructions and I will read through them now! Have a great Sunday and always being here for all of us!

[Algoma]

Here are the instructions ITR sent me. BTW, they said I would need 16 gallons of transfer fluid, but I only used 14.

[NCC-1701A]

At the time I changed mine out in 2020, the lowest cost I found was directly from Century in 5 gallon pails.

[palehorse89]

Originally Posted by NCC-1701A

At the time I changed mine out in 2020, the lowest cost I found was directly from Century in 5 gallon pails.

Best price with free shipping I found was from Camping world, I did read your thread in my research..........

Originally Posted by Algoma

Here are the instructions ITR sent me. BTW, they said I would need 16 gallons of transfer fluid, but I only used 14.

Thank you! ordered 14........

[flyboy013]

What’s driving you to change out the fluid? My fluid has nearly 6 years of full time use and is brown in color, but a recent Ph test shows it within the acceptable range.

[palehorse89]

Originally Posted by flyboy013

What’s driving you to change out the fluid? My fluid has nearly 6 years of full time use and is brown in color, but a recent Ph test shows it within the acceptable range.

Last test this winter with my calibrated Ph meter said Ph was 7.6 , and after reading the instructions Kevin posted, thinking there was a bunch of old fluid in there from the last time it was done not per the instructions..........
ITR says to change based on Ph.........just figured mine was getting close enough. I never tested new fluid, but they say it is between 9-10 Ph.
Hoping done properly this time, it will go for a long time............14 gallons is pricey
What number did you have for your test?

[Suburbazine]

Originally Posted by Kevin Bell

I have attached the flushing instructions for the ITR Chinook which outlines the procedures as we perform them. If you are going to use compressed air, it MUST be regulated at 10PSI or lower or you could seriously damage the system. The 4048 pump should work well for you.

I purchased a new heat exchanger from ITR and it actually came with a slip in the box stating it was limited to 7psi flush pressure. The fittings are pretty delicate.

[MarkMaxPayne]

This RV repair tech / inspector out of Arizona, who posts YouTube videos, just posted this video this weekend about doing a flush and replacement of fluids on an ITR Oasis unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0-TtjFvL8M

He also shares why he prefers the yellow fluid over the pink/red and why he doesn't like to mix them.

Best,
-Mark

[palehorse89]

Thanks Mark, another member posted that video yesterday here https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/oas...ll-646404.html
My comments follow .........The video is not the proper way to do a fluid change..........

[palehorse89]

In closing this thread I started, just wanted to post how my fluid change went,





I have been working on mine changing the fluid out taking my time the last couple day's and followed ITR's instruction's on how to do a fluid change, only took it just a bit further, like when removing the fluid from the Oasis boiler tank after removing the red inlet and outlet hose's(Mine were 3/4"ID not the 5/8" like instructions state) which holds about 90% or more of the system fluid, I siphoned the tank out by putting a 3/8" copper straight pipe down into the inlet side to the bottom of the tank and then picked it up a bit, took a clear little hose and put it inside the copper tubing and pushed it in till it hit bottom, the reason for this is the clear hose most likely would of curled inside the tank and not been on the bottom. This took some time due to the small size of the siphon hose, got to love retirement...........
Close to 9 gallons came out, when the flow stopped, I put 2 gallon's of distilled water in the output side and started the siphon again and did this twice, second time water was clear coming out, Ok, now the boiler tank is done.

Leaving the boiler inlet/outlet hose's coupled together per ITR's instruction's, I flushed the rest of the system through the inlet/outlet on the distribution module, not to much old dark fluid came out as you are just flushing the hose's and heat register's out.....

Then hooked up air to the inlet side of the module and blew the water out of the system, in doing this I learned as I thought about it and instructions saying max 10 # of pressure, but that is if the air pressure was blocked on the output side, but the air was free to flow through the system, so I used a little more pressure.
Per say, the air purge pressure is just like the flow from the pump putting the new fluid back in............

Went back to the boiler and reinstalled the inlet and outlet hose's........
I use a spare water pump (3.5 gpm) to fill the system, started with the outlet in a empty gallon jug to make sure no dark fluid was going to go into my clean 5 gallon bucket with the new fluid in it.
maybe 2 cups of dark fluid cam out when I started the pump, shut the pump off and put the outlet hose in the 5 gallon at this point and turned the pump on, lots of air came out, and had alligator clips on the pump so I could easily stop the pump to refill the bucket with more new fluid.

Did this till no more air came out and the level in the bucket stayed stable, left the pump run and turned on the Oasis pump bypass switch and ran for 5 minutes, did not see any reason to run longer as level in the bucket was stable and no air coming out the outlet hose. Turned off bypass switch, Closed the 2 ball valve's on the module.

Went to the rear to the over flow tank and used a hand pump to remove all the old dark fluid out of the tank............
Went inside and turned on AC1 and AC 2, and as the boiler heated up, dark fluid was pushed into the overflow tank from the hose coming from the radiator cap on the boiler.

When it was all heated up tested all function's of the Oasis system and all was good. Went back to the overflow tank and once again sucked all the dark fluid out of the tank and filled the tank with fresh fluid to the max level as the system was up to temperature and hot. The second time the fluid was not as dark and pretty much more of the new fluid color.

Shut the electric element's off and called it a day.............going to the shop to see how thing look today..........I suspect all will be good.........


Nice to see a bright green new fluid in the system.............
Hope this helps anyone that is going to do a fluid change, this was my first time doing this, and it feels good knowing it was done correctly and all the old fluid was removed.
On a side note, the new fluid tested with my Ph meter at 8.7...............I would of though it would of come in higher than that? Their print on the gallon jug says 8-10..........

And fired the burner up this morning and the overflow tank went up to a mark I put on the tank yesterday before turning the system off to let it cool down over night........
Everything good.....