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Old 03-09-2012, 02:30 PM   #1
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Dash air and heater problem

I have a Dutch Star 38' DP. I can only get warm air out of my dash heating and cooling system. Even the vent air is warm. It seems to have something to do with the tempeture control. Has anyone had this problem?
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Old 03-09-2012, 03:07 PM   #2
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Just something to check is the proportional valve in the coolant hose directly outside the heat fins box area in the dash. These have been known to fail in the open state causing full coolant flow thru the radiator reducing/eliminating any cooling from the AC condensor. On mine it is an Evans product who also makes the dash controller with the knobs.

To check it simply heat up the engine with the heat turned off and check the 2 lines going into the heater core to see if 1 is much colder than the other.

Some people have installed an inline flow control manual valve to shut off this flow as they usually only want the AC system to work at its max efficiency and not spend the $ to fix the heat issue.

Check the coolant valve and controls here
Evans Tempcon, Inc - Service Parts
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:53 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fergietoo2 View Post
I have a Dutch Star 38' DP. I can only get warm air out of my dash heating and cooling system. Even the vent air is warm. It seems to have something to do with the tempeture control. Has anyone had this problem?
I had a similar problem. I couldn't swith over to A/C. I had the Electronic Coolant Valve replaced and it is working fine now. You can get the part number (depending on your year and A/C control type) from the Evans Tempcon site that Qwert66 posted and then buy it online from a dealer. I think it was around $180.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:32 AM   #4
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I too have had a similar problem, but it comes and goes on some whim I haven't been able to pin down. I can be crusing down the road and everything working fine, the next minute the AC is blowing hot air. When I took it in for service it worked fine, as soon as I hit the road again it reverted back to bad behavior! I suspect I have a loose connection somewhere but so far no luck in tracking it down. I think I'd better add this thread to my "watch for developments" list for some better ideas.
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BpK9Miami View Post
I too have had a similar problem, but it comes and goes on some whim I haven't been able to pin down. I can be crusing down the road and everything working fine, the next minute the AC is blowing hot air. When I took it in for service it worked fine, as soon as I hit the road again it reverted back to bad behavior! I suspect I have a loose connection somewhere but so far no luck in tracking it down. I think I'd better add this thread to my "watch for developments" list for some better ideas.
My A/C would come on occasionally, but most of the time stuck on heat. I would still bet on the coolant valve as the problem.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:36 PM   #6
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"DAN", If you have a Ford or Workhorse chassis the Evans control unit may be not working to close the hot water valve for AC operation.
You could have a loose air hose also.
Evans control valve.
Some of use have installed a BALL VALVE in one of the heater hoses during the summer months to aid the AC halve of combination heater/AC unit.
There is more info in the Newmar Quick Tips link.
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Old 08-12-2012, 12:03 AM   #7
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Guys, I just discovered, this weekend, another issue that may be effecting the a/c issues previously discussed. I was under the dash working on another (audio type) issue and while moving some of the wiring bundles around, discovered that each of my four dash vents hoses had multiple 90 degree bends in them running from the cooler box under the pax side of the dash...yeah, surprised indeed. The air restriction was awful.

After cutting the hoses to length - some had at least 18 inches of extra hose - Removing the bends, and making the lines as straight from the box to the vents as possible, my air flow (seems to) increased noticeably.

Don't know if that will help everyone, but it's another on of those scratch-your-head things that pops up.
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Old 08-12-2012, 10:01 AM   #8
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Thanks for your follow up Dan never know what you may find with all the different coach's on market.
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Old 08-12-2012, 06:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BpK9Miami View Post
I too have had a similar problem, but it comes and goes on some whim I haven't been able to pin down. I can be crusing down the road and everything working fine, the next minute the AC is blowing hot air. When I took it in for service it worked fine, as soon as I hit the road again it reverted back to bad behavior! I suspect I have a loose connection somewhere but so far no luck in tracking it down. I think I'd better add this thread to my "watch for developments" list for some better ideas.
The Evans control valve issue can be intermittant, mine was. I was quoted $130 for a new valve, which might, or might not do the same thing. An inline ball valve and brass hose barbs was about $10. I close it in the summer, open it in the winter. Let the Evans control valve do its thing in the winter, which works fine. Seems to be an issue with them opening when they shouldn't, not the other way around. In the meantime, if you see it happening, turn the temperature control way up for a minute, then all the way back down. This worked sometime to get it to reclose. Note, this is a slow moving valve, so don't expect an immediate change.
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Old 08-12-2012, 06:55 PM   #10
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Do you sometimes get a moment when the air comes out the defroster vents and then switches to the dash vents? This is a clue that you have a vacume leak maybe intermitant but it may be affecting the switching of the air control from AC to heat. Find the pump or the line coming from the intake manifold and follow it to the first resevoir. The lines from the resevoir should take you to the "flappers" and controls for the air conditioning system. Had this happen on my MA and it ended up being a line into the reservoir was loose.
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Old 08-13-2012, 03:56 PM   #11
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The Evans valve is just that - an on/off flow valve. Per Evans/Tempcon the heat/AC system is not proportional but rather one or the other is on. Even though there is potentiometer on the dash that turns from blue to red it is simply a switch to turn on the evans valve. Evans says that simply near halfway in its rotation (plus/minus alot) is where this control resistance switches the valve. So if you want heat put the temperature control all the way and if you want AC put the control all the other way.

This evans valve WILL fail so it's a good idea to install the manual ball valve in line as well if you plan to use the dash AC. A 3/4" pex ended ball valve (American Valve #t200bxb from Lowes for $11.00) fits nicely.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:52 PM   #12
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I had the same symptoms with my dash air. The installation of a ball valve at the firewall solved all my problems.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:02 PM   #13
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Welcome to the forum and irv2 L19drvr.
Enjoy the forums and do post often.
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Old 11-02-2015, 12:30 AM   #14
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Hi, the ball valve is a great idea for the warmer climes. My issue is that I want controllable heat. Max AC is OK on the rare occasions it's needed. I'm new at this computer stuff but somewhere in here I read about both GM and Dorman electronic valve actuators that are both direct replacement for the iffy Evans item and a quarter the price in cdn $!! Does anyone know the part #s, GM or Dorman? Also the Actia LCD display for mileage, oil pressure, trip odometer etc on my 03 Damon has vanished. Am i safe if I just soldier on without it or are there important warnings that I will be missing?
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