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Old 12-06-2021, 07:30 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilV View Post
Where did you find tires in that size rated for use at speeds over 70 MPH when new?


We have to be careful that newbies will read this and not realize that 19.5 and 22 inch tires are usually only speed rated for 70 MPH MAX and not for extended periods of time or in hot climates since the speed ratings are set at moderate temperatures and relatively short duration's.
My Ventana is equipped with these which have an L speed rating.

https://rvtires.com/catalogue/93499/...xrv-30570r225/

L speed rating is 75 SUSTAINED At MAX LOAD.

We are not running the tires at MAX Load, we are maintaining correct pressure for weight.

Speed ratings are always at MAX Load Sustained, which will never happen.

You can run up to 100 mph on short bursts and nothing will happen.

I set the cruise at 75 pretty regular where the speed limits are 70 MPH.

Now if you run the tires underinflated and over loaded they will fail at 50 mph.

I do appreciate your concern, However this may help you understand tire technology and ratings so you have a clearer understanding of what it all means.
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Old 12-06-2021, 07:52 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadyacht1 View Post
I just donít understand why people want to tow such huge vehicles? I tow a Honda Fit with a 300 hp 3.8 Dutch Star and donít even know it,s back thee.
For us we already had the car prior to the rv and did not want to buy another car. Plus we have two large dogs and grandkids. It cost use about .5-1mpg to pull it. Way less than the cost of another car
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Old 12-06-2021, 08:25 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by Roadyacht1 View Post
I just donít understand why people want to tow such huge vehicles? I tow a Honda Fit with a 300 hp 3.8 Dutch Star and donít even know it,s back thee.
For us we already had the car prior to the rv and did not want to buy another car. Plus we have two large dogs and grandkids. It cost use about .5-1mpg to pull it. Way less than the cost of another car
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Old 12-06-2021, 08:30 AM   #60
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No matter how ďsmartĒ our vehicles become, itís up to the operator to be the smartest component. Adaptive cruise control has its advantages and limitations.

Looking ahead and planning for climbing, descending, traffic, road conditions, and curves are things that should be constantly practiced by the driver in anticipation of whatís coming. Matching the gear selection with current and expected conditions will help keep the engine RPM in the proper range for peak torque and/or horsepower.

If thereís a concern regarding a rigís performance, itís definitely worth investigating, but we each can impact the way our rigs perform by knowing what RPM range to keep the engine for the given situation.

Hopefully, the OP finds a good answer to his concerns.
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Old 12-06-2021, 09:06 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
That's surprising.....I really wanted an MA for the 500HP and 1800lbs of torque. It's got to pull better than my DS towing my 6100 pound Raptor. The grades out west slow me down to 45-50 mph on 6% and down in the high 30's to low 40's on 7% grades and better.

What speeds are you talking about.
I believe these are normal speeds no matter your engine. I get comparable with our 450. Those are big hills. Just chill and enjoy the view. We travel a lot thru the mountains in western US.

And go SLOW back down the other side!!!! Same speed as you did going up!
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Old 12-06-2021, 04:30 PM   #62
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Why weíre towing a large truck?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadyacht1 View Post
I just don’t understand why people want to tow such huge vehicles? I tow a Honda Fit with a 300 hp 3.8 Dutch Star and don’t even know it,s back thee.
Roadyacht1 we run our cars over 150k before we buy a slightly used replacement. We chose a large truck because we use it for our regular life. Where we live, what we tow, how we work…. I could answer it ‘because we can’ but thought I’d give you an honest answer. Some would ask why people want tiny, cramped cars when they travel with dogs, off road etc.
The point is…..
People can tow what works for them, no judging needed
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Old 12-06-2021, 07:56 PM   #63
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steve, we just bought a low mileage 2020 Denali 3500 and plan to tow behind our 2020 40íDS with a 450 Cummins. Is it sluggish at all for you?


Itís not bad at all I drive with the cruise a lot for better acceleration but handles it fine
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Old 12-06-2021, 09:18 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vickie 4369 View Post
My Ventana is equipped with these which have an L speed rating.

https://rvtires.com/catalogue/93499/...xrv-30570r225/

L speed rating is 75 SUSTAINED At MAX LOAD.

We are not running the tires at MAX Load, we are maintaining correct pressure for weight.

Speed ratings are always at MAX Load Sustained, which will never happen.

You can run up to 100 mph on short bursts and nothing will happen.

I set the cruise at 75 pretty regular where the speed limits are 70 MPH.

Now if you run the tires underinflated and over loaded they will fail at 50 mph.

I do appreciate your concern, However this may help you understand tire technology and ratings so you have a clearer understanding of what it all means.
My father was a Chemical and Design Engineer in the tire and rubber industry for 47 years and got his Masters in Engineering from MIT in the 1920's, my Uncle was in charge of setting up and maintaining Vulcanizers and Cousins involved in making the presses so I am familiar with how the tire speed ratings get bracketed for short bursts at MAX speed at moderate temperatures until reaching the stated MPH goal. Most of my family was involved in the design and manufacturing of tires for Civilian, Aviation and Military use. The customized rubber formulations my Dad designed for tires set aside for Civil Defense had a 50 year storage life but were much more expensive than the 5 or 6 year consumer tires we get. The tires for vehicles used to fight aviation fires were highly specialized formulations too as were the rubber suits used by the front line firefighters.

Had a senior moment on the speed rating and the MAX common speed rating is 75 MPH for which I would still be considering 65 MPH sustained the reasonable limit especially after the tires were over a few years old. Setting the cruise control at 75 MPH is something I would not recommend on a tire with a just a 75 MPH MAX Speed Rating. If its Temperature rating was below A then I would lower the sustained speed even further to just 60 MPH sustained.

Those unfamiliar and unaware of how things worked might be inclined to misinterpret things as giving them a cart blanch to just put the pedal down and exceed the speed rating of their tires at extremely unsafe levels.

As far as tires are concerned the old adage holds true that the candle that is burned more brightly burns out more quickly which too many people find out the hard way where I live which some consider the blowout capital of the US.
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Old 12-07-2021, 04:59 AM   #65
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FOR ALL THE TIRE INFLATED COMMENTS on this threadÖ
What a tire COULD do in sustained speeds and what it SHOULD do are two different things. At our Spartan class they stressed. Not sustaining. Speed over 65 mph.. If youíre advocating for going over that OR reading all this. Wondering what you SHOULD do ask yourself these extra questions:::
1) whatís the impact on you, your coach and anyone traveling around you if the tire blows?
2) what does the additional speed above 65 mph do to your stopping distance or ability to evade anything that may be in the road, crossing the road, etc.
3) what does the 10 extra miles save you in minutes at the end of your. Day?
4) what does the additional. 10 mph add to fuel usage and cost?

IMHO The risk of significant financial loss/damage to coach, loss of life to you and others, increased cost etc is not worth the couple of extra minutes you think you might save cranking it up to a higher speed. Youíre in a Coach presumably to enjoy a slower, more enjoyable life. Slow down, be safe and enjoy life. Itís not just YOUR life you risk but all those traveling around you Ďmurphyí visits.
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Old 12-07-2021, 05:19 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HMCSW View Post
For us we already had the car prior to the rv and did not want to buy another car. Plus we have two large dogs and grandkids. It cost use about .5-1mpg to pull it. Way less than the cost of another car
Same here. My F250 is an every day driver, work and farm truck. The cost of towing it is a fraction of owning, insuring, and licensing a separate vehicle.
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Old 12-07-2021, 03:44 PM   #67
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I pulled a GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD, 7,800 lb. across the west from Tennessee with a 2010 underpowered 42' Phaeton. Too much truck, too little torque. Colorado mountains at 22 mph. I was passed by a herd of bison. Keep the dinghy light if you possibly can.
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Old 12-07-2021, 05:39 PM   #68
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Not sure of your route, but once you get off the major highways/roads on the east coast around the Smokey's, Shenandoah, central PA etc, many don't really give you a chance to get up to speed given up/down turns etc. Once you give up the velocity may be difficult in those situations to get it back unless you know the routes and where you can roll.

I don't have the HP/torque you have so have to rely on shifting strategy and get stuck frequently on routes I'm not familiar with. Major roads are much better IMO, but we bought this thing to explore so we just look around a lot more...

I even got hung up this way when I had my F150 and Airstream.
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Old 12-07-2021, 05:57 PM   #69
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I was passed by a herd of bison.
Hahaha. Awesome.
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Old 12-07-2021, 07:43 PM   #70
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We have a 2015 4369 Ventana 400 hp and always tow a Jeep jku on a trailer, total weight is 11000 lbs and we run all over Colorado mountains minimum of 35 mph up the biggest passes!!!!
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