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Old 02-11-2007, 08:11 AM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Zac:
... The code lights are O L - 7 o ... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
This is the fluid level check (o,L for 'oil) which means "Sump fluid temperature too low" [to measure the fluid level]. This in itself isn't a problem, it just means you can't use the electronic oil level sensor until the transmission is warmed up to between 140-220degF.

To get into diagnostic mode you will need to press the UP & DOWN arrow buttons (together) TWICE since you have a trasmission oil level sensor installed. Once in diagnostic mode you should see any codes displayed, one digit at a time. You will then need to press the MODE button to see the next code.

Once you have recorded any codes you can clear the indicators by pressing and holding the MODE button for approximately three seconds until the mode indicator (LED) flashes. Some codes are self clearing and other require ignition cycles to clear. (If the condition that caused the code is still present the code will again become active.)

To exit the diagnostic mode press the UP & DOWN arrow buttons at the same time and then press the N (Neutral) button.
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Old 02-11-2007, 08:49 AM   #16
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I wouldn't be so sure it is a transmission issue. There are so many computers talking to one another on modern MH and trucks it could be the Cummins computer interpeting conditions that may or may not exist.
This happened on a 2000 Freightliner FL70 we own, it's a garbage truck. The truck had nothing but problems from the day we took delivery, literally. The truck would shut down, not start, or not operate properly. Sensor after sensor was replaced before, after 3 years, the main computer was replaced. We haven't had any problems since. AMAZING.

I would contact Cummins about this problem and have them check for codes possibly stored in their computers.

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Old 02-11-2007, 08:54 AM   #17
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Here is the code.

D135000
D2-
D3-
D4-
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Old 02-11-2007, 09:42 AM   #18
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If I read my Allison 3000/4000 manual correctly, a MAIN CODE of 35 and SUB CODE of 00 (you seem to have an extra zero there, btw) indicates "Power Interruption / Real Time Write Interruption" and it says to check the following:

a) ECU connectors are tight, clean, and undamaged
b) VIM connectors are tight, clean, and undamaged
c) Vehicle manufacturer supplied wiring has correct power and ground connection
d) Power connections are battery direct
e) Ground connections are battery direct
f) Ignition switch connections are correct

I'm definitely not an expert about any of this, however, so it's probably best to check with somebody who is (Allison, Cummins, etc.)
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Old 02-11-2007, 10:31 AM   #19
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Because the coach was just sitting for 4 weeks, what is the likelyhood of wiring being the problem? What other reasons will the Cummins Stop Engine Light Display. Right now the trans light is not going on. Is there a way to reset all codes for cummins and allison? Disconnect from battery for how long? I'm wondering if a bad signal is causing the issue.
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Old 02-11-2007, 05:24 PM   #20
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Zac,

Although your coach has just been sitting, the wiring might still be a problem.

A similar thing happened to us with a Chevy Suburban that had been sitting. The problem turned out to have been MICE chewing on one of the wiring harnesses.

With the colder wheather, mice may have nested near the engine comparment because it's warmer.

Hope you get it figured out.

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Old 02-12-2007, 09:09 AM   #21
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Another thing you might check prior to calling Allison or Cummins is your chassis battery voltage. If your batteries are not putting out enough voltage the electic brain will tell you to shut down the motor. This could be the difference between 12.8 volts and 12.4 volts. We have had that situation also on our newer garbage trucks with Cummins engines.

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Old 02-12-2007, 11:02 AM   #22
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Thanks for the info. I will get the meter out and check. I did have house battery issues, so maybe it is all related.
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Old 02-13-2007, 10:23 AM   #23
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Latest Update. I tested the Chassis batteries and the reading is 12.6. I've called cummins coach care which is about 60 miles away and will be awaiting for a tow to their location tomorrow. As for having our Coach towed, what should I look out for or be aware of? The price for towing is from $400-$700. Does that seem normal?
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Old 02-13-2007, 10:28 AM   #24
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Zac,
Is there a reason you need to have the repair made now? The reason I ask is when the weather gets warm, the problem may go away.

Or worse, the coach is towed to the shop, they put the coach inside overnight and the next morning, all they get is a no trouble found!
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Old 02-13-2007, 10:43 AM   #25
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We use our coach about twice a month. We do dog performance events across the country. We have a event up in Madison, Wisconsin, in 17 days, Amana, IA two weeks later than Nashville on April 1st. I wish it would warm up but we just received 8" of snow today and we are dropping down to zero again and will not warm up till Sunday, which will be in the low 30's. I priced Cummins Tech on-site service they charge $125/hr plus mileage. So just to run diagnostics would be $400-$500.
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Old 02-13-2007, 02:31 PM   #26
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The shop charge will not be much/if any less than the $125/hour. Consider all that has been written about towing and the problems that can happen. Combine this with the bad weather. How about providing all the info you can to the shop take a chance on the on site repair. Ask if the engine and tranny should be at operating temp to make the diagnostic as accurate as possible. If so, get the engine and tranny to operating temp and see if your problem goes away.

Most everything (connectors/sensors, etc) should be field replaceable. Make sure they bring parts!
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Old 02-13-2007, 04:37 PM   #27
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Hey GaryKD,

When I talked with the cummins shop, it is $144 round trip for mileage, plus $125/hr for service to run the diagnostics. If it is something simple that can be replaced, what parts do you think they show bring? I was told that the check engine light and stop engine light can be a soo many different things and most likely if it can be serviced in the field it would most likely be two trips by the tech. I understand that towing should be the last resort and with the weather it does not help. When they tow, does the towing company responsible for any towing damage? The towing company was recommended by cummins. When I talked to one of the senior guys, he asked for tonage, size of tires, make, model, if it was a truck type axle or not. He mentioned that most likely that they would have to put the front wheels on a dolley type device/lift. He even mentioned that RV's are not designed to be towed. I have time to cancel the tow if I let them know early tomorrow morning.

Thanks for any input.
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Old 02-13-2007, 05:10 PM   #28
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The towing company is responsible for damage they cause. The problem is getting them to admit to any damage. If you do tow, consider following the coach in your own car with camera in hand (maybe a co-pilot). Get the driver's card and the dispatch number before you leave your house. You may need to call dispatch to tell him to slow down. Ask rebelsbeach about his recent towing experiences. Take pictures of the coach from all sides before and after it is hooked to the tow truck. Pictures should include under the front of the coach from the front wheels forward. They will, most likely, put the front wheels on a dolly. They will also need to disconnect the drive shaft. Make sure they mark the drive shaft so it can be reinstalled the same way it was originally installed.

For mobile service, as to parts, you are correct, it could be anything. This happenned while the coach was sitting idle and got very cold. I would hope their truck would have many sensors, ECU, ect. the electrical parts that are small, weigh little and take up little space.

I could be very wrong, but I just have this feeling if you got the engine and tranny fluids to over 100 degrees, the problem would go away. You know the coach better than anyone.
Do what you are most comfortable with. This is a tough call, only you can make it.

If it was me, I'd plug in the block heater (I assume this is a DP) overnight. Also plug the coach into shore power overnight (shore power is needed to power the block heatrer). At sun up start the engine and keep the block heater on. Let the engine idle (it make take 30+ minutes). If it shuts down, wait a minute and start it again. Don't do this more than 3 times. The goal is to get the fluids to over 100 degrees. If you can do this and the problem goes away, you may still want to get it fixed, but it is not an emergency and you can drive it to the shop. In addition, if this happens only when the coach gets very cold, getting a shop to find the problem may be a bit difficult. If you can not get it to run long enough or when it does get to over 100 degrees the errors remain, then it's back to plan "A". Mobile service or towing.

Best of luck and please post what the problem is.
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