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Jager · 08-25-2017, 10:48 AM

I have a Dometic NDA 1402. It is working on LP but not on AC. I searched the forum for posts and see stuff about the Norcold but not Dometic. I read plenty about cooling them and the defrost issue. I see nothing on this.

Background:
I recently had to replace my basement freezer. This problem with the house fridg seems to have started about the same time. I have the installation manual and have read it. I opened outside lower fridge panel and checked both AC outlets. There is 120ac there so fridge is plugged into AC power with no problem.

In the manual (pg 7) it says that the fridge must have constant +12vdc "to maintain the automatic energy selector system". I checked where they say to with a digital volt meter and in fact I have a nice solid +13.5 at the DC terminal block.

I uncovered the fuse block in there (see photo) and check each of the fuses. Starting at the left I have a solid 13v on the 3A, 7.5A, and 3A. Then just to the left of the "test port" I measure no voltage on either side of the 7.5A fuse there. The manual says this fuse is either for the "heating element drain tray" or the "heating element Fridg" or the "Heating element freezer". It doesn't tell me which of these. NOTE: I have the defrost error 11 or whatever it is on the fridge. I assume this is why there is no voltage on the single 7.5a fuse. I purchased a new defrost ribbon but haven't replaced it yet.

At this point I'm kind of stuck and not sure where to go or what to look for next. Everything is running fine on LP, just not AC.

Why won't it select AC?

shaman52 · 08-25-2017, 10:52 AM

Are the controls at refrigerator control panel set to Auto? There should be a little green lighted dot below the word Auto.

Jager · 08-25-2017, 10:58 AM

Shaman52 - interestingly enough no. I tried to push the "Auto" select button and get nothing. The flashing "ERR 13" and "Call Tech" message just keep flashing and don't seem to allow me to select "Auto" on the controls. Which causes me to wonder if I've had this problem ever since I got the "ERR 13" code?

Maybe when you get that code it will ONLY operate on LP or what ever was last selected? This might be the reason I have this LP only problem and I am just now learning that. Anyone know for sure? Guess I better get that taken care of.

shaman52 · 08-25-2017, 10:59 AM

Trouble shooting at "Call for service" error messages Error codes are shown flashing alternated with the message "CA LL".
Important notes: • Only one error code is displayed at the same time. If more than one error exist, the error with the lowest error number is shown. • Some errors are only detected at the power ON self-test, others are detected all the time and will be shown as soon as they occur. Therefore also some error messages may not be reset until the refrigerastor is restarted (power OFF and the power ON again).
"Er 11": The fault is detected as "open circuit" to the heating element for defrosting in the freezer. Possible faults: - Fuse F4 (7.5A) blown. - Cable on tab connector J5 on the power module disconnected. - Ground cable to the heating element loose - Wrong or loose connections in the interconnection box inside the freezer compartment. - Blown overheating protection fuse in the heating element (heating element has to be replaced) - Broken element (heating element has to be replaced)
Switch OFF the refrigerator. Check the fuse. Measure with an ohm-meter from the cable on connector J5 to chassis ground. The measurement can be made without disconnecting the cable. If the resistance is significantly greater than about 2 ohms, there is a fault in the element or in the wiring.

Per Dometic Manual. This is the defrosting element in freezer. I have replaced mine it was no fun.

For other error code: "Er 13": The fault is detected as "open circuit" to the heating element in the water drain. Possible faults: - Loose wires in cable connector that is connected to P5. - Wrong or loose connections in the interconnection box inside the freezer compartment. - Broken element (heating element has to be replaced)
The fuse F6 also serves this heating element, but if the fuse is blown "Er 12" will be shown, as it has priority over "Er 13".
Switch OFF the refrigerator. Measure with an ohm-meter between cables connected to pins 2 and 5 in the connector P5 on the power module. The measurement can be made without disconnecting P5. If the resistance is significantly greater than about 15 ohms, there is a fault in the element or in the wiring.

Jager · 08-25-2017, 01:59 PM

Shaman52 - Huge thank you for the information. So just wondering . . . is this in a users manual? On Dometics website? You have a PDF of this? This information is not in the installation manual.

shaman52 · 08-26-2017, 05:13 AM

Tom,

I have attached the Dometic Service/Trouble shooting manual.

Send me a PM with your email address and I will send you the other interesting PDFs on the Dometic NDR1402, I have. Due to size they would exceed the attached file limit.

I had a thought last night about your problem. Could you run an extension cord to the refrigerator to eliminate any possible 120V AC circuit problems. I have tested circuits that read normal voltage until a load was placed on them.

David
2007 MADP 4528

Indyspecrace · 08-26-2017, 10:17 PM

I just pulled one of those out of my coach today and installed a Samsung RF18. I retained all of the electronics. Yours for the cost of shipping if you need anything. My fridge was working but not keeping up in warm weather.

Jager · 08-28-2017, 01:47 PM

David - Thanks. I will PM you.

Indyspecracer - Thanks! I will keep that in mind. Honestly I doubt there is much wrong with it. At this point I'm pretty sure it is just the defrost heater tape. It is bad and I know it. I already purchased a new replacement.

On a different thread . . . how much was it to replace the Dometic with the Samsung? Is it a simple one for one swap? Does the Samsung run on propane or 120V?

Old-Biscuit · 08-28-2017, 02:00 PM

"Er 13": The fault is detected as "open circuit" to the heating element in the water drain.

Therefore NO AC operation allowed UNTIL 'electric fault' repaired/cleared

Dometic NDR1402 Service Manual...print out for hard copy
http://www.alpinecoachassociation.co...e%20manual.pdf

Indyspecrace · 08-28-2017, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jager

David - Thanks. I will PM you.

Indyspecracer - Thanks! I will keep that in mind. Honestly I doubt there is much wrong with it. At this point I'm pretty sure it is just the defrost heater tape. It is bad and I know it. I already purchased a new replacement.

On a different thread . . . how much was it to replace the Dometic with the Samsung? Is it a simple one for one swap? Does the Samsung run on propane or 120V?

I bought the fridge on sale for $1099 and installed it myself. Not particularly easy. I had to remove both captains chairs and the overhead TV. The worst part is getting the old one out the door and the new one in. I had a couple of younger buddies stop by for some extra muscle. I've read that $600 will get the installation done for you. My install looks great, but $600 is certainly a fair price. As with anything else, the second time would be easier.