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Old 12-08-2021, 08:42 AM   #1
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DS chassis battery charging question

Replaced chassis batts last spring and house batts a month ago on my 2015 DS 4366. Coach has been parked in my warehouse (plugged in) since last trip in October. I went to bump out slides last weekend & no go chassis batts were dead. I charged them & checking voltage daily they are dropping slightly every day from typical parasitic draws (LP detector etc.). Charged again and this time turned battery cut off to off & they are staying fully charged. I believe my chassis batts are fine they are just not getting charged while coach is plugged in. Just joined Newgle this a.m. to search for a wiring diagram but confirming email from Newmar said it would take 3 days to approve membership? Anyway, while I'm waiting on that any suggestions where to start looking would be appreciated. Also, if anyone has a wiring diagram how Newmar charges chassis batts that would be great. Thanks
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Old 12-08-2021, 01:33 PM   #2
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First step would be to grab a digital volt meter and measure the voltage across the chassis batts. If it's reading 13.xx volts, it's being charged.

Some lower end RV's never installed the OPTIONAL chassis batteries charging system so it's up to the owner to do so. Some RV brands it's not optional, it's standard.

In the case where it's optional, many owners use the Trik-L-Start or the Amp-L-Start system of 3 wire connections between the battery sets. Easy to install but a mite expensive. Others have a convenient AC outlet in the RV where they plug in a simple 1.5 amp or 2.5 amp float charger and connect it to the chassis batts so whenever you're plugged into shore power, they are kept charged.

Sometimes it's just simpler and less expensive to forget the built in float charger repair and just install one of those devices mentioned.
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Old 12-08-2021, 02:02 PM   #3
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Chassis batteries

Had the same problem this year when chassis batteries not charging. Ended up replacing them twice while on the road. It turned out to be a solenoid in the bay where the electrical cord is stored. The factory has changed the original solenoid from the 2015 model. Connections to the new solenoid were different than the old. Mobile rv tech could not do the job and had to take coach to a truck place that also worked on motorhomes.
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Old 12-08-2021, 02:07 PM   #4
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Thanks Jim for the reply. Right now the chassis batts are charged and reading right at about 13 and they are staying at that voltage because they are disconnected. If I connect them they lose a small amount every day. I'm positive my coach charges the chassis batts while plugged in as I've had it almost 6 years. My coach may sit in storage several months (without disconnecting chassis batts) and chassis batts are always fresh. Something has changed & they are not receiving any charge and would be dead in a couple weeks if left connected. I guess my question is to anyone that has a like coach if they know how the chassis batts are wired to receive a charge.
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Old 12-08-2021, 03:24 PM   #5
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Find your isolation/bridging solenoid and see if it's actuated. It will be warm and have voltage to one of the small terminals.

It's the solenoid that clunks when the Boost/Aux switch is pushed.

If actuated, check voltage on both large terminals to ground. Should be the same, if not, it's bad.

If not actuated, check your house battery voltage while in float mode. It needs to be above 13.2 volts before the solenoid will activate .
Low volts ? Check the Battery Temp Sensir reading thru the Inverter/Charger.
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Old 12-08-2021, 04:12 PM   #6
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I think you might have this in your Dutch Star.

https://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/insta...ges/111457.pdf
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Old 12-09-2021, 08:22 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
Find your isolation/bridging solenoid and see if it's actuated. It will be warm and have voltage to one of the small terminals.

It's the solenoid that clunks when the Boost/Aux switch is pushed.

If actuated, check voltage on both large terminals to ground. Should be the same, if not, it's bad.

If not actuated, check your house battery voltage while in float mode. It needs to be above 13.2 volts before the solenoid will activate .
Low volts ? Check the Battery Temp Sensir reading thru the Inverter/Charger.
OK found the solenoid I think. But since I changed house batts a month ago with Lifeline AGM I changed the charge profile to AGM 1. The stock float charge is only 13.1 V. So if I understand correct there may be nothing wrong with the solenoid it's more I'm not letting the charge to the chassis batts because the float voltage is too low? What info am I looking for with the temp sensor? Thank you so much for the assistance. The chassis batters issue is new since the new Lifeline AGM battery install so I suspected it's something I did (or didn't do) right.
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Old 12-09-2021, 08:45 AM   #8
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I think you might have this in your Dutch Star.

https://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/insta...ges/111457.pdf

Thank you but I couldn't open link. I'm still waiting Newmar to approve my membership to Newgle.
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Old 12-09-2021, 09:00 AM   #9
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Set the float voltage up to13.3 and see if it works.

Look thru the inverter remote screens for BTS readings, OR unplug the BTS and see if float volts rise a bit.
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Old 12-09-2021, 09:17 AM   #10
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Set the float voltage up to13.3 and see if it works.

Look thru the inverter remote screens for BTS readings, OR unplug the BTS and see if float volts rise a bit.
10-4. I did check the Lifeline house batts also & got exactly 13.1. No surprise since my float is set @ 13.1. I'll go back & try your suggestions & report back this afternoon. Thanks again!
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Old 12-09-2021, 01:23 PM   #11
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10-4. I did check the Lifeline house batts also & got exactly 13.1. No surprise since my float is set @ 13.1. I'll go back & try your suggestions & report back this afternoon. Thanks again!
Bill,

The AGM1 setting in the Magnum remote panel is not correct for the Lifeline AGM batteries. Lifeline has a recommended float charge of 13.3v. As Twinboat mentioned (and you discovered), 13.1v is not high enough to trigger your BIM to put a charge to your chassis batteries, it has to be a minimum of 13.3v.

You can get the proper charging profile by selecting “Custom” for battery type and putting in Absorb=14.3v, Float=13.3v, and Equalize=15.5v. While you are at it make sure to change the setting of “Final Charge” to Float. Doing so will keep your AGM batteries fully and properly charged.
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Old 12-10-2021, 02:25 PM   #12
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Thank you Twinboat & 757 Driver! I changed from battery type AGM 1 to custom & set profile to what you recommended. Absorb & EQ were already at the correct setting so I bumped float to 13.3v. I also checked Final Charge setting and it was NOT set to float so I set that also. Shortly after that I was seeing 13.5 v across the chassis batteries where they were 12.7 before. I'm comfortable the system is now allowing the chassis batts to be charged properly.
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Old 12-13-2021, 06:48 AM   #13
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I also had set mine to custom for my Lifelines, but I noticed that when I set float to 13.3v it was charging or at least showing a charge of 13.6v and if I set it at 13.1v it showed a charge of 13.3v. Not sure what's up with that. You mentioned a setting for "final charge". My magnum does not have that setting. Yours must be newer than mine. I have a 2013 MA. Just curious what the choices are for that setting.
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Old 12-13-2021, 08:05 AM   #14
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I also had set mine to custom for my Lifelines, but I noticed that when I set float to 13.3v it was charging or at least showing a charge of 13.6v and if I set it at 13.1v it showed a charge of 13.3v. Not sure what's up with that.


The voltages automatically vary based upon temperature. The setting you set is based upon the standard 77F. Voltage goes up as it gets colder, and goes down when it gets hotter than 77F
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