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Old 06-06-2021, 10:49 AM   #1
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Dump Valves when hooked up

Ive heard a bunch of opinions on this subject and I leave mine closed even though Im hooked up. Then when the tanks are full, I dump. Some say with the macerator toilets now, they will leave the black open and pull the grey when needed. I ordered my new LA with a conduit to the mid bath so i can install electric dump valves if I want to later. Thoughts?
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Old 06-06-2021, 10:53 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewmarDave View Post
Ive heard a bunch of opinions on this subject and I leave mine closed even though Im hooked up. Then when the tanks are full, I dump. Some say with the macerator toilets now, they will leave the black open and pull the grey when needed. I ordered my new LA with a conduit to the mid bath so i can install electric dump valves if I want to later. Thoughts?
I never gave it much thought until I read some stories of people who got bugs that infested their holding tanks, from the parks's dump system through open dump valves...

That was enough for me to keep my valves closed unless dumping.. it's not really that hard to open/close the valves when needed..

I look at it as one of those things where it's not the odds that it will happen, but what's at stake if it does...
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Old 06-06-2021, 10:58 AM   #3
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Always closed - black and gray.

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Old 06-06-2021, 11:02 AM   #4
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Do what works for YOU until it doesn't
Then figure out WHAT happened and change the way you do things


I don't connect sewer hose until I am going to dump which is WHEN 'holding' tanks are FULL
Dump/stow until next time

Simple......
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Old 06-06-2021, 11:31 AM   #5
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My Fear exactly!!!
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Old 06-06-2021, 12:14 PM   #6
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Dave...when I ordered my coach, I added wiring to my half bath cabinet. I added 7 wires, so I could install an inside switch for the SaniCon and one for an electric black tank valve. I bought this valve (below), because you can buy it with an extra wiring harness, prewired, with two switches, allowing operation from inside or outside the coach.

https://drainmaster.com/rv/products/mini-view2

Here is my procedure when camping.....when we arrive, I always connect the SaniCon hose and open the grey tank valve. The SaniCon has a built in bypass, which allows the grey to drain, without turning it on. Our Dutch Star, with the toilets set on "High" water, will fill our black tank every 2.5 days. Initially, when the yellow light would come on, meaning the black tank is 3/4 full, I would open the black tank valve, from inside the coach, and then turn on the SaniCon. When you do it this way, you have to KNOW that the SaniCon hose end is securely in the sewer drain, as the SaniCon pump is very powerful.

After making the above my routine for awhile, I realized that since both toilets are macerators, my blank tank was all fluid. I started just opening the black tank valve, without turning on the SaniCon, and the tank emptied in about 3-4 minutes. This was great, because the tank was now emptying without being under pressure from the SaniCon pump. No more worrying about an accidental spill.

We eventually honed the above to dumping the black tank when needed, but on departure days, I opened the black tank valve before we showered in the morning. I closed the valve when the tank was empty and let our shower water rinse out the SaniCon hose. When we break camp, I just lift the SaniCon hose at the wet bay and "walk" it down to the sewer drain so it's empty. I screw on the cap and stuff it onto the floor of the wet bay.

A few other things.....First, I here the stories about critters getting into your tank. I've been camping for over 45 years and never had an issue. The critters would have to climb up the sewer drain, into your 20' SaniCon hose, through your SaniCon pump and into your tank. Then they would have to get past the traps/one way valving. That would be quite the journey. Consequently, I don't worry about it.

Second, I found the hose end for the SaniCon to be useless. You have to disconnect the hose from the end and screw it into the sewer, then reconnect the hose to use it. So......I made my own connection that stays permanently attached and has a 3" and 4" threaded cap as part of it. The below takes about 45 minutes to make and all the pieces were bought from Home Depot. It stays attached to my SaniCon hose and threads right onto the sewer drain without removing the hose. The 3" and 4" threaded black caps, spin freely on the pvc drain pipe. The end piece is threaded and allows me to attach a spare hose, by just threading them together. See photo below...

Third, there are a few different brands of electric black tank valves. I like the Drainmaster because they offer the prewired, two way, second switch. I just cut their loom and attached it to the prewire provided by Newmar.

Lastly, you'll need to buy the sheathing that goes over the SaniCon hose. The new, more powerful unit, REALLY pressurizes the hose and expands, then shrinks when it's off. Consequently, the corrugated hose, collects rocks when it expands and then shrinks, causing small pinholes. The sheathing protects the hose. There are several threads about that on here. A 25' roll of the sheathing can be bought on Amazon.

For me, my system makes connecting the coach sooooooo simple. Before the slide is extended, I connect the water hose (pressure regulator installed in wet bay), thread the SaniCon hose into the sewer drain and connect the power cord. I can have all my connections done in under 5 minutes. By keeping it simple and always connecting, I NEVER worry about overflowing the tanks, especially with a dishwasher, washing machine and unlimited hot water.
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Old 06-06-2021, 12:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hattitude View Post
I never gave it much thought until I read some stories of people who got bugs that infested their holding tanks, from the parks's dump system through open dump valves...
I always put a "dip" in my sewer hose to act as a trap. Mostly to keep the stink of the whole park from venting thru my roof but it keeps most critters from finding a way up the inside of the hose too.
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Old 06-06-2021, 12:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
Dave...when I ordered my coach, I added wiring to my half bath cabinet. I added 7 wires, so I could install an inside switch for the SaniCon and one for an electric black tank valve. I bought this valve (below), because you can buy it with an extra wiring harness, prewired, with two switches, allowing operation from inside or outside the coach.

https://drainmaster.com/rv/products/mini-view2

Here is my procedure when camping.....when we arrive, I always connect the SaniCon hose and open the grey tank valve. The SaniCon has a built in bypass, which allows the grey to drain, without turning it on. Our Dutch Star, with the toilets set on "High" water, will fill our black tank every 2.5 days. Initially, when the yellow light would come on, meaning the black tank is 3/4 full, I would open the black tank valve, from inside the coach, and then turn on the SaniCon. When you do it this way, you have to KNOW that the SaniCon hose end is securely in the sewer drain, as the SaniCon pump is very powerful.

After making the above my routine for awhile, I realized that since both toilets are macerators, my blank tank was all fluid. I started just opening the black tank valve, without turning on the SaniCon, and the tank emptied in about 3-4 minutes. This was great, because the tank was now emptying without being under pressure from the SaniCon pump. No more worrying about an accidental spill.

We eventually honed the above to dumping the black tank when needed, but on departure days, I opened the black tank valve before we showered in the morning. I closed the valve when the tank was empty and let our shower water rinse out the SaniCon hose. When we break camp, I just lift the SaniCon hose at the wet bay and "walk" it down to the sewer drain so it's empty. I screw on the cap and stuff it onto the floor of the wet bay.

A few other things.....First, I here the stories about critters getting into your tank. I've been camping for over 45 years and never had an issue. The critters would have to climb up the sewer drain, into your 20' SaniCon hose, through your SaniCon pump and into your tank. Then they would have to get past the traps/one way valving. That would be quite the journey. Consequently, I don't worry about it.

Second, I found the hose end for the SaniCon to be useless. You have to disconnect the hose from the end and screw it into the sewer, then reconnect the hose to use it. So......I made my own connection that stays permanently attached and has a 3" and 4" threaded cap as part of it. The below takes about 45 minutes to make and all the pieces were bought from Home Depot. It stays attached to my SaniCon hose and threads right onto the sewer drain without removing the hose. The 3" and 4" threaded black caps, spin freely on the pvc drain pipe. The end piece is threaded and allows me to attach a spare hose, by just threading them together. See photo below...

Third, there are a few different brands of electric black tank valves. I like the Drainmaster because they offer the prewired, two way, second switch. I just cut their loom and attached it to the prewire provided by Newmar.

Lastly, you'll need to buy the sheathing that goes over the SaniCon hose. The new, more powerful unit, REALLY pressurizes the hose and expands, then shrinks when it's off. Consequently, the corrugated hose, collects rocks when it expands and then shrinks, causing small pinholes. The sheathing protects the hose. There are several threads about that on here. A 25' roll of the sheathing can be bought on Amazon.

For me, my system makes connecting the coach sooooooo simple. Before the slide is extended, I connect the water hose (pressure regulator installed in wet bay), thread the SaniCon hose into the sewer drain and connect the power cord. I can have all my connections done in under 5 minutes. By keeping it simple and always connecting, I NEVER worry about overflowing the tanks, especially with a dishwasher, washing machine and unlimited hot water.
Attachment 331045
Now that’s a reply!!
Thanks Don. Newmar wouldn’t run wires but would run a conduit for me.
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Old 06-06-2021, 01:06 PM   #9
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They originally denied my request for wiring, but approved it when I went from 14 gauge to 12 gauge. I think they were afraid I would burn something up.
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Old 06-06-2021, 01:16 PM   #10
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We never leave the black tank valve open. Even with macerator toilets, the solids can precipitate out of the slurry (polite term) and build up on the bottom of the tank over time.

Our routine is to leave the gray tank valve open when hooked up; black tank valve closed. When it is time to drain the black tank, I close the gray tank valve and hook up the black tank rinse. After letting the rinse run for a couple of minutes to get things stirred up, I open the black tank valve and start the SaniCon.

When the black tank is empty and I hear the SaniCon pump start to free-wheel, I shut it off and close the black tank valve. After letting the rinse continue for 3-4 minutes, I again open the black tank valve and activate the SaniCon until I hear it start to free-wheel, then shut it and the rinse off. Finally, I close the black tank valve and re-open the gray tank valve.

This procedure has worked well for us in the three years we’ve had the MADP with macerator toilets and SaniCon.

TJ
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Old 06-06-2021, 02:32 PM   #11
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I've had the Sanicon in both my Newmars and I find that the Sanicon hose is gas permeable. They won't admit it, but if you leave it hooked up to the sewer, the hose begins to smell, and smells up the entire wet bay. Not sure why we don't see more complaints about it. (The sanicon should NOT be in the wet bay to start with. It should be in a separate isolated box) The only fix is to throw the sanicon hose away. Newmar warrantied my first one, I bought a spare ever since then because they get tiny holes in them anyway.

So I pull out the hose only when I'm ready to dump. Cleaner appearance in the campground too.

HTH

Bill Belanger
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Old 06-06-2021, 03:59 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by hohenwald48 View Post
but it keeps most critters from finding a way up the inside of the hose too.
So what your saying the critters can somehow navigate the sewer system but that little crimp keeps them out. mmmmmmm
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Old 06-06-2021, 04:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJ View Post
We never leave the black tank valve open. Even with macerator toilets, the solids can precipitate out of the slurry (polite term) and build up on the bottom of the tank over time.

Our routine is to leave the gray tank valve open when hooked up; black tank valve closed. When it is time to drain the black tank, I close the gray tank valve and hook up the black tank rinse. After letting the rinse run for a couple of minutes to get things stirred up, I open the black tank valve and start the SaniCon.

When the black tank is empty and I hear the SaniCon pump start to free-wheel, I shut it off and close the black tank valve. After letting the rinse continue for 3-4 minutes, I again open the black tank valve and activate the SaniCon until I hear it start to free-wheel, then shut it and the rinse off. Finally, I close the black tank valve and re-open the gray tank valve.

This procedure has worked well for us in the three years we’ve had the MADP with macerator toilets and SaniCon.

TJ
I think you can save some time and water. Keep both closed. When you dump, first do the black, close black, then the gray.
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Old 06-06-2021, 05:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBelanger View Post
I've had the Sanicon in both my Newmars and I find that the Sanicon hose is gas permeable. They won't admit it, but if you leave it hooked up to the sewer, the hose begins to smell, and smells up the entire wet bay. Not sure why we don't see more complaints about it. (The sanicon should NOT be in the wet bay to start with. It should be in a separate isolated box) The only fix is to throw the sanicon hose away. Newmar warrantied my first one, I bought a spare ever since then because they get tiny holes in them anyway.

So I pull out the hose only when I'm ready to dump. Cleaner appearance in the campground too.

HTH

Bill Belanger
The 3" hose from the SaniCon to the discharge port has always been permeable. When I had the older style and used the 3" hose, I replaced it with a section of Rhino sewer hose, which solved the issue. On my 2019 DS, I direct connected the SaniCon turbo to the discharge outlet, no odors.
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