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Old 05-15-2021, 06:14 PM   #1
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Dutchstar Plumbing Diagram

This request is for a 2015 DSDP but I suspect is probably the same for any DSDP plus/minus 5 years (or even more). In particular I'm looking for the flow in and out of black tank flush valve.

TIA!
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Old 05-15-2021, 08:37 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky_Boss View Post
This request is for a 2015 DSDP but I suspect is probably the same for any DSDP plus/minus 5 years (or even more). In particular I'm looking for the flow in and out of black tank flush valve.

TIA!
I just learned a bit ago that the one way valve for the black tank rinse is located within the 1/2 cabinet just under the sink in my 2015 DSDP. Of course the inlet is in the water bay. From the one way I'm not sure exactly where it entered the black water tank.

Hope that helps a bit.
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Old 05-15-2021, 08:46 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutchstar411 View Post
I just learned a bit ago that the one way valve for the black tank rinse is located within the 1/2 cabinet just under the sink in my 2015 DSDP. Of course the inlet is in the water bay. From the one way I'm not sure exactly where it entered the black water tank.

Hope that helps a bit.
HMMMM...

I'm going to have to check that out. The port on the water bay panel for the black tank rinse is a check (one way) valve. It would be curious to have 2 check valves but stranger things happen.

THANKS!
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Old 05-15-2021, 08:53 PM   #4
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HMMMM...

I'm going to have to check that out. The port on the water bay panel for the black tank rinse is a check (one way) valve. It would be curious to have 2 check valves but stranger things happen.

THANKS!
I'm going to change mine out with two 90 degree Shark bites and a Shark Byte 1 way valve tomorrow. Currently it's the black plastic type with hose type connections just under the 1/2 bath sink within the cabinet. I want to run real hot water through it and I'm afraid of the plastic check valve and it's hand tightened fittings.

Also mine is a 40 footer not 43 foot. If yours is behind a panel within the cabinet, run the water through it and go into the 1/2 bath and listen for the water running. You'll hear it as well.
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Old 05-15-2021, 08:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
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I'm going to change mine out with two 90 degree Shark bites and a Shark Byte 1 way valve tomorrow. Currently it's the black plastic type with hose type connections just under the 1/2 bath sink within the cabinet. I want to run real hot water through it and I'm afraid of the plastic check valve and it's hand tightened fittings.

Also mine is a 40 footer not 43 foot.
GOOD LUCK!!!

I'd be interested is seeing some progress photos if you take them.
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Old 05-15-2021, 09:18 PM   #6
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https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/wha...is-533138.html

Here is the thread that I learned about the one way check valve under the 1/2 bath sink. There are pictures of it as well.
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Old 05-15-2021, 09:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutchstar411 View Post
I just learned a bit ago that the one way valve for the black tank rinse is located within the 1/2 cabinet just under the sink in my 2015 DSDP. Of course the inlet is in the water bay. From the one way I'm not sure exactly where it entered the black water tank.



Hope that helps a bit.


Correct. For code,you must have the check valve located above the black tank.
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Old 05-15-2021, 10:21 PM   #8
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There’s a gap of about 2-1/2 inches between the gray and black tanks that acts as a pipe chase for a few runs. The black tank flush line runs from about the panel area right into this gap between tanks, then elbow directly up, toward the bathroom (which is directly above the water bay.) The anti-siphon is mounted inside the bath vanity cabinet, at a level point above the black tank. From there it goes directly down to the point from which it elbowed off, then another elbow resumes its original course (between the tanks) to the flush port on the rear sidewall of the black tank. That port is located near the top of the tank, about one foot in from the water bay.
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Old 05-16-2021, 09:06 AM   #9
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OK...I think get it now!

I was wondering why 2 "check valves".

I found the check valve in the 1/2 bath but it was late so I haven't messed with it yet. Clearly, that is the primary protection to ensure black tank sewage doesn't back into the fresh water source used to rinse the tank.

It would appear the only real purpose of the check valve located on the water bay panel is to stop water from backing down from the high point. This would keep clean water in the hose between the connection and the high point from draining into the water bay. Nothing dangerous but still enough to make a mess. Of course, if the primary check valve some how failed, it would be a second line of defense.

Based on what I am seeing that the pipe between the water panel and primary check valves is retaining a lot of pressure for several minutes my hope is that the primary check valves is stuck. However, there is no guarantee that is the case.

I should also say the I noted that the sound of the sprayer in action seems to have diminished over the last few months. It is entirely possible that started getting clogged to the point it couldn't clean itself out.

So...

I now see my trouble shooting and repair path on the "blocked" black tank rinse is as follows.

1. Verify the water panel check valve is working normally. I've done that and see no issues. Water flows through it and the internal check valve stops water from backing out of it when the hose is disconnected.

2. "Charge" the black tank rinse lines. By that I mean I will attempt to do a rinse and then disconnect the hose from the connection. I'll come back after a few hours to see if it is still pressurized. Assuming I fully understand the workings of that check valve I would...
A. Determine if the primary check valve is broken and mechanically "jammed" for no other reason. Unfortunately the casing for the valve is not a clear plastic like some I've seen so I can't visually inspect it. I will depressurize the line first then disconnect the outflow. I will then turn on the flush and see if water comes out. To be honest, I hope it is broken. If the valve appears to be working correctly then...

B. The black tank rinse is totally blocked and the line between the primary check valve and the rinse sprayer is pressurized thus locking up the check valve as it should.
Does anyone know if that primary check valve is something I can get "off the shelf" at Lowes, Home Depot...?
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Old 05-16-2021, 09:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutchstar411 View Post
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/wha...is-533138.html

Here is the thread that I learned about the one way check valve under the 1/2 bath sink. There are pictures of it as well.
Thanks for the info...

If my trouble shooting reveals a bad check valve I may go that route. However, if I can get a check vale off the shelf I will try that first.

Fortunately a blocked rinse is not an immediate emergency.
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Old 05-16-2021, 04:41 PM   #11
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Before and after pics, once I put on the SharkBite check valve I had to open the hole to allow more room between the two plex pipes since the SharkBite check valve and 90's were wider then the original Vacuum breaker and check valve.

Also a bit of caution, BOTH the hand tightened ends on the original vacuum breaker/check valve were extremely loose. For anyone who is not planning on changing out their check valve, I would definitely tighten their fittings to help prevent any water or smell from getting into their mid bath.
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Old 05-16-2021, 10:30 PM   #12
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Hi - A word of caution. If you are not a full timer and live in a cold climate your new set up does not seem to allow for protecting the line from freezing. The air admittance valve that you removed allowed water to be drained from both sides of that valve by breaking the siphon in the line.



Tom
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Old 05-16-2021, 10:33 PM   #13
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Hi - A word of caution. If you are not a full timer and live in a cold climate your new set up does not seem to allow for protecting the line from freezing. The air admittance valve that you removed allowed water to be drained from both sides of that valve by breaking the siphon in the line.



Tom
I understood what he was trying to do but something in the back of my head said something was missing. Otherwise, why wouldn't RV manufacturers get rid of the vacuum breaker?
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Old 05-17-2021, 03:19 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Hi - A word of caution. If you are not a full timer and live in a cold climate your new set up does not seem to allow for protecting the line from freezing. The air admittance valve that you removed allowed water to be drained from both sides of that valve by breaking the siphon in the line.



Tom
I appreciate your feedback. We live in Florida and in 15 years of RVing we've never had to prep for freezing temperatures. But if we ever do, I'll blow that line out with air if I believe there would be a possibility for freezing. BTW, the fill side before the vacuum breaker was full with water. Is there a one way valve at the input as well?
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