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Old 07-20-2021, 01:47 PM   #1
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Engine Access Hatch not quite ready to open

In the past I read on the forum that you should also perform periodic care of the rubber seal around the engine access. I hadn’t gotten around to it quite yet.

But then along comes the fuel rail problem and I figured I wanted to make sure I was leak free, and the hatch opened smoothly for the mechanic doing the repair once they identify the fix (my understanding is right now it’s an inspection not a fix).

So I removed the tile floor. Plastic putty knife will help with the little black caps on the floor. A few obvious bolts hold the tile floor down. Make sure you have a good spot close by to set the floor down, it is heavy, awkward and will scratch if you don’t put something to protect the tile.

Then with the tile floor removed you will see a dense plastic hatch with 8 bolts holding it (at least on my rear radiator Ventana since the hatch is 2 hinged pieces). See picture one.

Now look close at the right side plywood strip. See the two bolts you need to remove? Well if you can see all the bolts you are done. But in my case picture 2 is a close up of how they covered the bolts. I don’t know what the roadside repairman or tired mechanic would do here but I’m glad I found this at home where I could make it usable without destroying the strip or having to figure out (and buy) whatever they used to bond this together.

I grabbed an old well worn larger drill bit and drilled out the plywood above the bolts (takes a while to avoid the tile edge and bore out on the edge of the plywood). Then I used an old screwdriver that is no longer usable on screws as a chisel to remove the last bit of wood around the bolt heads.

Now my access hatch is usable by whoever needs to get in there. Again make sure you have somewhere tile-safe to store this cover.

While I was there I also shop vac’d up all the construction debris that I found under the tile floor. And I finally got around to the seal.

Picture 3 is what you will see with the hatch removed.

Bottom line I’m glad I took the time to look myself before a mechanic ever needed to do this.

- Richard
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Old 07-20-2021, 05:34 PM   #2
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Someone wasn't paying attention during assembly at the factory, mine were all exposed, so not a common screw up.
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Old 07-20-2021, 06:32 PM   #3
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Is (or are) the fuel rail(s) in the picture? I have no idea what it looks like? I have an ISB Cummins, so it will likely not look exactly like yours.
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Old 07-21-2021, 09:44 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HavingABlast View Post
Is (or are) the fuel rail(s) in the picture? I have no idea what it looks like? I have an ISB Cummins, so it will likely not look exactly like yours.

If you look along the passenger side of the engine there are 6 bell shaped housings that attach the fuel lines from the rail to the block. The mechanic I spoke to indicated you need to check those connections and the ports at the rear of the block that are clearly visible in the picture DSD had on a thread about the fuel rail issue a few weeks back.

- Richard
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Old 07-21-2021, 12:15 PM   #5
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The part circled in yellow are called banjo fittings. They connect the fuel line to the engine. If you have any that have seepage around them, you need to get it repaired.


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Old 07-22-2021, 09:11 PM   #6
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Thanks to both of you for helping me understand.
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Old 08-12-2021, 02:52 PM   #7
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Thanks Richard,
You got me to look at mine before taking in for the fuel rail recall, and mine was similar....
After sitting down in my easy chair and looking at the pictures, I noticed that I missed one of the screws at the back corner... After I had cleaned up all the debris and sawdust. ...sigh:
I'll have a cup of coffee and then work on that one.
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Old 08-13-2021, 06:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrooking View Post
Thanks Richard,
You got me to look at mine before taking in for the fuel rail recall, and mine was similar....
After sitting down in my easy chair and looking at the pictures, I noticed that I missed one of the screws at the back corner... After I had cleaned up all the debris and sawdust. ...sigh:
I'll have a cup of coffee and then work on that one.

Glad this helped someone else.

Saw another poster in a different thread who kept his tile floor removed for the trip to get the recall so he didn’t have to worry about them damaging tiles. I will do that when I take mine.

- Richard
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Old 08-13-2021, 06:54 AM   #9
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HOW TO ACCESS AN INTERIOR REAR ENGINE COMPARTMENT

Provides instructions for accessing an interior rear engine compartment.

Aug 20, 2020•Knowledge Article
Contents
This article provides instructions for accessing an interior rear engine compartment on most coach floor plans.
Notice NOTICE
The rear engine compartment access cover and the associated fasteners may vary based on year, model, and floor plan.
1. To access the rear engine compartment, remove the wood panel. Most coach floor plans have a removable wood panel located at the bottom of the wardrobe or cabinet at the rear of the coach. This panel is typically fastened using clips or Velcro™. Some coaches may use wood buttons and screws.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...l%20SNAGIT.jpg
2. Once the panel is removed, locate the mechanical fasteners and remove them accordingly. This may require a 3/8" nut driver bit and a screw gun/impact driver for quick removal. Some engine covers may fold down on a hinge once the screws are removed.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...0%28271%29.jpg
3. On coaches with ceramic tile, locate and remove the plugs in the tile floor area in front of the removed panel.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...-%20SNAGIT.png
4. On coaches with a vinyl strip around the engine cover, lift the inside lip of the vinyl strip to expose the screws around the inside perimeter of the vinyl edge cover.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...0%2021ksdp.png
5. Coaches equipped with carpet instead of tile typically have fasteners buried in the carpet near the corners of the access cover.
6. Then remove the mechanical fasteners beneath the plugs, vinyl strip, or carpeting to access the engine compartment. Use a 3/8" nut driver bit, a #2 square head bit, or a Phillips head screw gun bit, depending on which fastener type is used in your coach.
7. The cover should then be able to be lifted from the access point. The cover may be dirty, so take the proper precautions in where it is placed during any inspection or service of the engine compartment to avoid any damage and/or soiling of the interior of the coach.
Title
How to Access an Interior Rear Engine Compartment
Article Total View Count
76
URL Name
How-to-Access-an-Interior-Rear-Engine-Compartment
Last Published Date
8/20/2020 9:39 AM
Summary
Briefly describe the article. The summary is used in search results to help users find relevant articles. You can improve the accuracy of search results by including phrases that your customers use to describe this issue or topic.
Provides instructions for accessing an interior rear engine compartment.
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Old 08-13-2021, 08:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandDescape View Post
Glad this helped someone else.

Saw another poster in a different thread who kept his tile floor removed for the trip to get the recall so he didn’t have to worry about them damaging tiles. I will do that when I take mine.

- Richard
Yea, I measured and our tile hatch fit under one side of the under bed storage. Kept me from having to carry it down the stairs.
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