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Old 10-24-2021, 08:01 PM   #1
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Engine battery dying

Ok… TIA!
What on the dash or in the coach would be draining the chassis batteries? Coach is 2020 with less than 10k. We are original owners
Lights are off, nothing on the dash appears on. Genie is powering the coach but when I start the engine to check battery it’s sluggish and I have to jump the battery….
We have had the batteries completely drained and required jumping 2 times.
Any ideas?… something pulling charge I’m not aware of?
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Old 10-24-2021, 08:06 PM   #2
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How long does the drain down take ?

New doesn't mean good , batteries have to charged then load tested .

Chassis batteries , could have been run dead many times during the coach manufacture, and chassis batteries won't survive that.
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Old 10-24-2021, 08:17 PM   #3
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Many times.. manufacturers put in cheapest battery to get rv out door.. I would install new battery.. but you can.... go to nearest auto parts store and they will use computer to tell if battery is weak.. free.. they seem reliable for me.. in the past.. but I live in area they just kills batteries.. so I just replace every 3 to 4yrs.. just me.. I reuse the old ones somewhere else..
Also have them test alternator.. it's free anyway..
You can run these test your self eng on.. eng off.. but unless you have the computer it might be inaccurate..
Good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you
Oh.. you do turn chassis battery off and switch at steps.. right?
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Old 10-24-2021, 08:20 PM   #4
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I've got the same issue... Chassis Batteries Dead I thought keeping the rig plugged in would charge both the chassis batteries and the house batteries.
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Old 10-24-2021, 08:30 PM   #5
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Oh.. now I cannot see what kind of coach and chassis you have.. sorry.. but there are things that are never switch off.. I had to add battery combiner to charge chassis battery and because l.p. and co detector is wired to stay on all the time.. you could go to disconnect and wire differently.. but that is on you.. use all safety precautions.. and find out at chassis battery disconnect is draining your chassis battery.. I don't remember how long you state chassis battery runs down.. many times you can look at battery disconnect and see what is always wired on.. one side of disconnect is always hot.. just look and see what is on that post.. then check wire and see if drawing voltage.. warning if you move steps off hot side.. you will most likely destroy them.. by accidentally leaving down while drive and maybe injure someone.. so find out why before changing anything.. and use cell phone with camera and flash and record wiring before you do anything.. so you can understand change or what you temper with.. so you can trouble shoot.. now..
Good luck and keep us posted Google BATTERY COMBINER.. it will solve the problem.. you buy based on your alternator amp size ..
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Old 10-25-2021, 08:45 AM   #6
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It’s about 10-12 hours before it’s sluggish. We do keep our coach plugged in at home in the barn but the second time they drained we were plugged but the circuit blew and we did not know it. Of course, this is the 2nd time we didn’t use the AGS system which is stupid on us. I’m kind of worried that the CO2 from the generator running could kill our cats that might wonder in or us which is why I’ve hesitated to set the AGS at home.
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Old 10-25-2021, 01:52 PM   #7
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Auto Store...not always good

Quote:
Originally Posted by donr103 View Post
Many times.. manufacturers put in cheapest battery to get rv out door.. I would install new battery.. but you can.... go to nearest auto parts store and they will use computer to tell if battery is weak.. free.. they seem reliable for me.. in the past.. but I live in area they just kills batteries.. so I just replace every 3 to 4yrs.. just me.. I reuse the old ones somewhere else..
Also have them test alternator.. it's free anyway..
You can run these test your self eng on.. eng off.. but unless you have the computer it might be inaccurate..
Good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you
Oh.. you do turn chassis battery off and switch at steps.. right?

I tow a Toyota and had some trouble starting it. Took it to the local AutoZone and asked them to check the battery. They had me start and stop the engine several times while they looked at their instrument. After they were done they told me, "the battery is fine, your alternator is bad." Then they took me in the store and were kind enough to give me a sheet of prices for all the replacement alternators so I could give it to "my mechanic."


After that I went home and since I am "my mechanic" I pulled out my meter and did some checking. Engine off 12.3 volts, Engine running 14.0 volts. Next morning before starting engine 10.5 volts. After starting engine 14.1 volts. Went to a different Auto Parts store, bought a battery, installed it and I haven't had any problem since.


Were they trying to scam me into buy an alternator? Did the clerk not know what she was doing. Was there a problem with their tester. I don't know what the answer is but I know the AutoZone solution wasn't the correct one.
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Old 10-25-2021, 02:33 PM   #8
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Update all and thanks for the help. We think it’s a bad regulator and probably bad batteries. Anyone know if it’s hard to change the Regulator? We can do a battery no problem.
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Old 10-25-2021, 02:37 PM   #9
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We have an appt at Newmar and were wondering whether we should have them do it or if it’s a DIY?
Our Spartan book seems to imply Regulator
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Old 10-25-2021, 04:23 PM   #10
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10/12 hours to drain while plugged in .

Have Newmar check out the coach/chassis battery interconnect , that should be maintaining chassis battery charge ( not sure if they still use the BIRD system )

Don't know what brand of alternator your coach has but most times on newer coaches the regulator is internal in the alternator .

What voltage readings do you get about three minutes after start up; high idle , should run to 13.8 /14 volts + with low batteries.

My money is still on bad chassis batteries.
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Old 10-25-2021, 09:42 PM   #11
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Once in while.. just like at home some tests don't work.. but as you are mechanic.. you should just be able to look at a battery and see if it is questionable.. here is ohio.. they only last about 3yrs.. I always start at battery if anywhere near 3yrs..
That being said.. I told you to start with battery because manufacturer puts junk in them.. and rv dealers like to swap them around..
But I am glad you got it..
Good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you
Oh.. I bet AutoZone makes more on batteries than on alternators..
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Old 10-26-2021, 05:11 PM   #12
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Update:

Ended up to 1 �� battery and one very low… it actual caused some error codes and as we arrived home it wouldn’t shift. We turned it off, back on and called an Allison shop. They walked us through the codes, clearing them and said that was all so to dead batteries. One of the batteries did have some corrosion. Thanks to everyone for taking the time to respond! We were told to also check connections but those were all fine! Allison said sometimes poor connection will also through those codes.
Happy Trails ALL!
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