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Old 11-22-2021, 04:36 PM   #1
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Fixing old parts on an old Newmar Scottsdale

Hi,



I'm a recent owner of a 2003 Newmar Scottsdale. I've owned 3 Newmar Dutch Stars in the past so I'm familiar with the brand. But this one is 17 years old and has a couple of issues that have my services guys stumped. I've talked with Newmar about it as well, but nobody has much info on these old coaches any more.



The windshield wiper motor only works on Hi - the intermittent wipers don't work. Newmar can sell me a replacement motor but told me the wiring may be slightly different - '5 in a row' pins versus '2 over 2'. I'm hoping someone out there may have had to do something like this, where an adapter or some form of re-wiring can be done to get the new motor to work with an old pin harness.



The headlights on this coach also don't work - we've checked the fuses, Newmar doesn't have a wiring diagram, I'm checking with the Workhorse Chassis folks, anyone have any experience dealing with fixing the main headlights on an old Newmar?


Thanks in advance, folks, for any guidance or ideas!


John Chmaj
Sammamish, WA
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Old 11-22-2021, 04:45 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forum.

You are joining a good group of friends here with good information to share. Read the various threads here and ask questions as they come up of add information if you can.

Good luck and enjoy the adventure!Welcome to the forum.

You are joining a good group of friends here with good information to share. Read the various threads here and ask questions as they come up of add information if you can. You might want to check out the newmar thread on the forum for some answers.

Good luck and enjoy the adventure!
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Old 11-22-2021, 04:49 PM   #3
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Hi John! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined us!

Congrats on the new rig! Have fun and keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 11-22-2021, 11:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnchmaj View Post
The windshield wiper motor only works on Hi - the intermittent wipers don't work. Newmar can sell me a replacement motor but told me the wiring may be slightly different - '5 in a row' pins versus '2 over 2'. I'm hoping someone out there may have had to do something like this, where an adapter or some form of re-wiring can be done to get the new motor to work with an old pin harness.
Hello John, Congrats on the new to you coach.
If the wiper motor works on high, with the dash switch. The main part of the motor (brushes, armature & bearings) are probably just fine. Not sure how your motor is wired. Some older wipers, grounded the motor housing, instead of using a separate wire. So your four terminal motor, may have power to each terminal at various times from the dash switch.
I'd start by seeing if I could find a part number and manufacture printed or stamped into on the motor. Then do a google search for a match. Then you can do a searches for a wiring diagram for the motor.
If yours is a Denso,... this might be yours?
https://comfortairgr.com/shop/denso-...r-159100-3220/
https://comfortairgr.com/shop/denso-...r-159100-7370/

PDF for Denso wipers in various RVs.
http://www.rometruckparts.com/catalo...0RV%202012.pdf
Page 71 has the four pin wiring diagram.

Your other option is to pull the motor from the coach, and bench test it. You can also pull it apart and replace the old grease. As grease dries the motors slow down. Let us know what you find.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnchmaj View Post
The headlights on this coach also don't work - we've checked the fuses, Newmar doesn't have a wiring diagram, I'm checking with the Workhorse Chassis folks, anyone have any experience dealing with fixing the main headlights on an old Newmar?
Headlights usually do not use traditional fuses. Normally you will find a self resetting circuit breaker. Give us a pic of the headlight switch. You may find the switch has given up the ghost. Often the Chevrolet headlight pull switch commonly used years ago. Here is the commonly used unit.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D1588...7644576&sr=8-4
Attached Images
  
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Old 11-25-2021, 05:51 AM   #5
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We have a 2001 DS. The driving/fog lights went out. I found that the relay switch failed. It was located behind the instrument panel. Replacement part found at local auto parts store. There should be a diagram showing the location of them. Our diagram was on the removable dash cover.
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Old 11-26-2021, 12:08 AM   #6
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John, look at the Zoro wiper motor #7835447
$94.00 at Autotext. It has 5 wires. You will have to match them up and might have different wire color codes. I found one 2 years ago. Good luck.
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Old 11-26-2021, 11:56 AM   #7
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John,

Do you own a multi meter or a 12v test probe? Ready to put on your detective cap and do some troubleshooting? I don't know any specifics about your coach but you should be able to trace down the headlight problem with a meter and/or probe. There are several ways to locate the problem and of course a schematic would make it easier, but you can troubleshoot without one. First way is to start at the headlight, and work your way backwards until you find power, If there's no power at the headlights, trace the wires back to the next component and test there, or start at the switch and see if you have power there, then move forward toward the headlight if you find the switch ok, or backwards toward the fuse panel if there's no power. Look for components like the breakers listed above or connections. Also check your grounds as you go. Use a good ground when checking for 12v then verify that the ground wire is good at that point too. That way you can isolate a bad positive from a bad negative. Make sense? With electrical issues don't assume anything. Move from one section to another until either the power stops, or the ground test bad.

I usually start simple, checking the easy stuff first, fuses, switches, connections, and ground points. I've run into some mystery problems that stumped me at first because everything looked good but I still had no power. I started over from scratch and started walking though the system starting at the fuse panel, yes the fuse was good, but I noticed when replacing it that one side went in with resistance, and the other one didn't. I removed the fuse and slight bent the socket ears to make a tight connection and the problem was solved.

If you don't find the problem, go back to the beginning and walk it through again. Don't make the mistake of skipping something because you tested it before. I've done that and only discovered I'd THOUGHT I'd tested it before, skipped it the second time and only caught it on the third run through. When I'd checked the first time I saw a good fuse and ASSUMED that the problems wasn't there.

Sometimes it's almost impossible to easily trace wires as they can go into bundles so you are limited to testing at accessible sites. A couple times I couldn't find the actual break, but narrowed it down to a spot between two components. The solution was to run a new wire between those points.

Some tips:

On older vehicles, the first place I'd go, after checking the fuses, is the dash switch since it's gets the most physical use.

With one of the probe type testers you can frequently push the tip into the back side of a plug and test the switch in situ.

You can test relays in place by slightly pulling the plug out far enough to get a test probe in yet still have the relay function. If most relays will have their internal circuit marked on the case, Sometimes this is on the plug side so you'll have to unplug the relay to look. If not you can get the relay model# and look it up online. Posts will be numbered.

If you come across any ground points on the frame or body that look like they are part of your circuit, it can't hurt to take them apart and clean them. Bad grounds on older vehicles are not uncommon.

I don't know if Newmar did/does it, but one thing that I have run into, is some 12V stuff seems to follow automotive standards where black or green are grounds, but I've found others, that in some places use household coding where white is ground(neutral) and black is power. I can understand that with 12V house wiring but I've encountered it under the dash too.

Relays can go bad too. If you have relays under the dash and you can't figure out which one might be for the headlights, try turning the headlight switch on and off and listen for a click, or hold the relay while doing the same thing and you can feel them when they activate assuming the coil side of the relay hasn't gone bad. If relays are in other places get a helper to listen and touch relays or to work the switch while you hunt.

There's people who are against using a pointed probe to pierce a wire's insulation to test, and others who say it's ok. I prefer to use piercing the insulation as a last resort and if there's any concern for moisture entering the little hole, just dab a little silicone over the hole.

Good luck with your problem. Hope this helps.
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