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Old 08-01-2021, 11:11 AM   #1
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Front Koni shocks on DutchStar - Is it DIY or not

My previous Spartan K2 rode a lot better w the Koni shocks I had installed. Considering putting them on the front of this 21 DutchStar 4369.

I have a considerable amount of tools including impact wrenches but I do not have a vehicle pit, lift, or ramps for a vehicle this size. Has anybody done this in their driveway or garage? Can it be a DIY, or does this require a pit or professional install?
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Old 08-01-2021, 11:19 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogdriver View Post
My previous Spartan K2 rode a lot better w the Koni shocks I had installed. Considering putting them on the front of this 21 DutchStar 4369.

I have a considerable amount of tools including impact wrenches but I do not have a vehicle pit, lift, or ramps for a vehicle this size. Has anybody done this in their driveway or garage? Can it be a DIY, or does this require a pit or professional install?
While your Coach is at ride height, put blocking under your 4 jack's. Now you can use the jacks to raise the Coach to your desired level to work on it.
And......it can never drop down past ride height if a jack failure happened.

The fronts are easy, If I remember correctly the bolt's are 1-1/8"........
The drive tire's, had to take the drive tire's off to get to the shock bolt's, the top one, even if you get the nut off, there is not enough room to take the shock off the stud, it is really close to the inside tire.
The tag axle was easy , but due to the drive's were off......
I put Koni's all around on my Essex just after I bought it, had them on my 2000 Mountain Arie........best money one will ever spend on their Coach!!
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Old 08-01-2021, 11:27 AM   #3
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Thanks. Don’t know about blocks under the jacks but I’ll look at it.
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Old 08-01-2021, 12:01 PM   #4
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Thanks. Don’t know about blocks under the jacks but I’ll look at it.
Big Block's maybe I should of said, I use 12 x 12 hardwood blocking . Have to measure jacks to ground at ride height . The jacks are designed and sized to lift the Coach with no problems .......
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Old 08-01-2021, 12:09 PM   #5
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I'm overly cautious. I would also use jackstands on the frame rails once raised to work height.
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Old 08-01-2021, 12:15 PM   #6
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I did a DIY Koni Shock upgrade in my home RV garage on all three axles on my 2016 4369 (Freightliner). I also installed Centramatics at the same time. Removing the wheels made the shock replacement easy. Lots of room for access. It is a lot more difficult install with the wheels on.

I used a combination of jack stands under the frame and blocks under the jacks for safety before I started the work.
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Old 08-01-2021, 08:09 PM   #7
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While your Coach is at ride height, put blocking under your 4 jack's. Now you can use the jacks to raise the Coach to your desired level to work on it.
And......it can never drop down past ride height if a jack failure happened.
I hope you aren't saying to put blocks under the jack pads....because the rig CAN and will drop and crush someone if any of the hydraulic lines burst.

If you are saying put blocking under the FRAME, then yes.

Recommended is to buy quality jack stands rated for the weight of the rig and put those under the frame and ontop of concrete pad before doing work like shocks.

Yes, shocks are a pretty simple DIY project if you have the tools and strength to remove the fasteners.
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Old 08-02-2021, 01:15 AM   #8
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I'm 6'2" and a little over 300....with my DS aired up, I crawled under the front end and changed my shocks....no need to jack up or block. At most, turn the wheel hard right and then hard left for better access. The lower bolts you can get an air gun on it, the upper may be tougher.
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Old 08-02-2021, 05:04 AM   #9
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I hope you aren't saying to put blocks under the jack pads....because the rig CAN and will drop and crush someone if any of the hydraulic lines burst.

If you are saying put blocking under the FRAME, then yes.

Recommended is to buy quality jack stands rated for the weight of the rig and put those under the frame and ontop of concrete pad before doing work like shocks.

Yes, shocks are a pretty simple DIY project if you have the tools and strength to remove the fasteners.
At "Ride Height" you will not get crushed.....
My post is pretty easy to understand ....... everyone has their own ideas and methods . Do what works for you .
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Old 08-02-2021, 06:39 AM   #10
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At "Ride Height" you will not get crushed.....
My post is pretty easy to understand ....... everyone has their own ideas and methods . Do what works for you .
The RV will move downwards the full height of the extended jacks. If your body is upright ("lots of room down here") or if you are between axle and chassis (like when servicing shocks), then you will get crushed.
That might have worked for you (so far) but it's not responsible to recommend a bad practice to others especially when it comes to a high safety issue. And I am not the safety police. I have done my fair share of dumb things.

It's apparent the OP isn't highly experienced servicing vehicles. Lets not give him dangerous shortcuts to follow. The correct (and approved) way is to support the frame so NOTHING drops (not even the 20 ton body).

The more experienced one is at servicing vehicles, the more you see. And air / hydraulic systems DO FAIL. And drop like a rock when they do. Especially when you are working on a subsystem so close to the lift system (shocks). Count yourself lucky.

It is just as easy to fit cribbage / jack stands under the frame then it is to put boards under jack pads. You just need the right sized timbers and even better, service stands. Do it the right way.
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Old 08-02-2021, 07:04 AM   #11
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The RV will move downwards the full height of the extended jacks. If your body is upright ("lots of room down here") or if you are between axle and chassis (like when servicing shocks), then you will get crushed.
That might have worked for you (so far) but it's not responsible to recommend a bad practice to others especially when it comes to a high safety issue. And I am not the safety police. I have done my fair share of dumb things.

It's apparent the OP isn't highly experienced servicing vehicles. Lets not give him dangerous shortcuts to follow. The correct (and approved) way is to support the frame so NOTHING drops (not even the 20 ton body).

The more experienced one is at servicing vehicles, the more you see. And air / hydraulic systems DO FAIL. And drop like a rock when they do. Especially when you are working on a subsystem so close to the lift system (shocks). Count yourself lucky.

It is just as easy to fit cribbage / jack stands under the frame then it is to put boards under jack pads. You just need the right sized timbers and even better, service stands. Do it the right way.
We are talking shock's here! you do the work on the rears from the outside, you are not in between nothing! As for the front, can only come down to ride height!
When I am under working big hardwood blocking put under the rear frame rails where the hitch is after raised.......
I don't consider my post's dangerous or bad information, sorry you see it differently
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Old 08-02-2021, 07:10 AM   #12
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We are talking shock's here! you do the work on the rears from the outside, you are not in between nothing! As for the front, can only come down to ride height!
When I am under working big hardwood blocking put under the rear frame rails where the hitch is after raised.......
I don't consider my post's dangerous or bad information, sorry you see it differently
Well, at least the OP has now read both ways and now has some degree of education to make his / her own decision.

And yes, I have done "your way" before myself...but at least I know what the gamble is and try to work around it (stay low, don't put anything inbetween the potentially falling chassis). And I know it's a "Dumb Ass thing to do".

So, back to shocks. Hopefully we have the rig lifted and properly supported by now...

On my K2, one has to remove the tie rod end to remove the lower shock bolt. And no way is one doing that type of work without getting underneath, and wacking, muscling stuff. On mine, a previous knucklehead left the tie rod bolts loose (and no cotter pin) so changing the shocks might have saved my life.
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Old 08-02-2021, 12:01 PM   #13
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I hate to derail the OP's original question , but, as an ardent DIYer shopping for my first DP, I want to make sure that I understand the safety issue discussed here.


Palehorse suggested to raise the coach to ride height, put blocks under the retracted hydraulic jacks, then raise the vehicle with the hydraulic jacks for servicing. If the hydraulic system fails, the coach will drop down to ride height.


Dav L, is your concern that if the hydraulic AND air system failed at the same time, they would be scraping me off the driveway with a putty knife?
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Old 08-02-2021, 12:02 PM   #14
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I don't think that Dav_L is really understanding what palehorse89 is saying!

You do NOT extend the jacks and then put blocks under them. Dav_L is right, that can kill you if the hydraulics fail. Instead, you fully air up the coach and measure the distance between bottom of the UNEXTENDED jack pad base and the ground. Then either custom cut/build some heavy duty wood blocks, or stack whatever you have to the right height. Once you have placed the blocks under the fully retracted jack stands, you can then air down the coach. It will settle a little onto the wood blocks with no chance of any further drop, as the jacks are still fully retracted with no where to go and supported by the wood blocks underneath them. Or, you can simply leave the rig aired up with the blocks as a safety backup, incase the air bags were to suddenly fail. Either way, assuming you used decent sized wood blocks, you are absolutely safe.

I far prefer this method over the jack stands that I used to use. The two pair of 20,000lb jack stands that I have are very heavy, tall, and expensive. You have to get under the unsupported coach to get them properly placed on the frame, and again to get them out. You have to be sure they don't slip when the weight is applied, they too can collapse when loaded, and you have to be sure of proper frame placement to avoid damage to the frame if the rig comes down on them. On my DS4369, it is very difficult to find a good place for the jack stands on the front end with the independent front suspension.

I think that wood blocks under the jack stands are safer and easier. I know that the jacks and jack pads are rated to carry the full weight of the coach. Wood blocks are cheaper, lighter, and simple to place under the jack pads without getting under an unsupported rig.

I have to admit though, that I recently built six 10" tall wood ramps. Now I just drive up onto the ramps and air down, easy peasy and plenty of safe work space! I do still carry wood blocks with me when I am on the road though. It scares the crap out of me to get under an unsupported rig!
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