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Old 02-07-2020, 01:06 PM   #1
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Fuel Filter Change for 2007 400 Cummins ISL

Good afternoon folks.
I am in need of some clarification/direction.

My MH is a 2007 Dutch Star 4023 with a 400 ISL Cummins.
I have decided to take over the annual service of this unit. I have been reading many threads regarding the oil/filter and fuel filter service. I have watched You tube videos on Oil/filter changes.
Unfortunately, there are none on fuel filter changes.

I feel comfortable with doing the Oil and oil filter changing as I have a 2500 Ram 5.9L diesel, and I have been doing that service for many years, so the MH is just the same but larger. The fuel filter for the Ram is also quite simple.

My confusion is what to do for the MH fuel system.

My filters are all Fleetguard. Oil- LF3000, Fuel filters are FS1003-water separator, and FF5488-purely fuel.
The threads I’ve been reading state many approaches regarding the fuel filters.
Some are saying -DO NOT PRE-FILL/ per Cummins. Use the electric pump to load the fuel, for sanitary reasons. I’m good with that and I understand the why. Here is the confusion. I have read and been told he following;

1. Put BOTH filters in place, DRY, and use the pump to fill both (on off for 20 sec x 10) and this will do the job. ?????

2. Do the above approach, but one filter at a time starting with the water separator filter (1003) then repeat this procedure for the purely fuel filter (5488)

3. Fill the water separator filter-(1003) with fuel, but not the Fuel filter-(5488) and fill that filter via the electric pump.

4. Fill both but be cautious and careful no to get dirt into the filters. “Impurities in the fuel are not enough to hurt the injectors”. THAT I REALLY DON’T FIND COMFORTING. (told to me by a diesel truck shop)

5. I called the Cummins dealer near me and the service tech said “Fill the Primary”, the fuel filter, and Prime the water separator. That approach makes me very skeptical because nowhere have I read that.
From all that I have read, the water separator, 1003, is the first line of defense and the purely fuel filter, 5488 is the last line of defense before injectors.

There you have it. I realize opinions are like navels and everyone has one, as I have discovered with my reading, but I really could use some direction. I know this opens me up to “more opinions” but at least they will be regarding my direct questions, I hope, and be in one place to review vs searching.
Thanks in advance for your input.

Therapy Guy
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Old 02-07-2020, 01:20 PM   #2
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I’ve done it both ways. Personally, I find pre-filling the filters from a clean container with fresh fuel is my preference. It’s hard to tell when you’ve run the pump enough to fill both filters, so you end up trying to start the engine with insufficient fuel, taxing your starter. Just the experience and opinion of a backyard mechanic, no formal training.

You are right about filling the water separator if you were going to fill only one as that is the first filter.

Walt
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Old 02-07-2020, 02:30 PM   #3
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On the first fuel filter change on my 2005 Monaco Diplomat, I installed the filters dry and did the key thing. I couldn't get the coach to start and never did it that way again. I think some of those who preach the dry filter fill install have only read about it and have never done it.

You need to look at your motor, I believe the motor home builder, not Cummins, specifies if an engine came with a primer pump. My 2005 Monaco Diplomat did not have a primer. Both my Dutch Stars had one. The primer is attached to the top of the primary fuel filter housing and may have a cap over it.

After the first fiasco, I began filling my filters before install. Take the primary filter, (water separating filter) and fill it with clean fuel. When filling, you should fill the filter from the outer holes while plugging the inner hole. This way, the fuel you're adding will be filtered before entering the engine. You can find a threaded cap that fits or do as I do. I use a clean thumb to plug the hole and fill.

Once the filter is installed, use the primer, if you have one, to fill it to the top. If you don't have a primer, you can do the key on thing a couple of times and then start the engine. Since this is new to you, let the engine smooth out and then shut it down. Remove the secondary filter, fill it and then reinstall. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes.

OIL CHANGE - If you wan to make life simple, add a Fumoto valve to your oil pan. It allows you to just turn a lever ON/OFF to drain the oil. The Fumoto valve has a small brass drain tube that you can put right into a five gallon gas can and drain. No messy oil drain pan.

The Fumoto valve can be installed before the first oil change two ways. If you're quick, remove the drain plug and quickly screw in the Fumoto, over a drain pan. You'll lose about a pint. Once the oil pan is drained, removed the Fumoto, clean the pan and reinstall the Fumoto tightly. Some will take a shop vac, place the hose over the dipstick tube, turn it on and replace the drain plug with the Fumoto.

Lastly, I use the 2.5 gallon Rotella oil jugs available at Walmart. The first time you drain the oil, you'll need to use something to drain it into. After the first oil change, I save the 2.5 gallon jugs (perfect size) and use them to drain the oil into, next oil change. Always fill the oil filter before installation.
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Old 02-07-2020, 02:54 PM   #4
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I read enough horror stories of changing them dry that I never attempted it!

Like Don said, one filter at a time, starting with the WS filter, then start the engine and let it run a few minutes in between.
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Old 02-07-2020, 07:45 PM   #5
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I've been changing all my filters annually for 15 years on my coach. The first year I followed the instructions and tried to prime the filters with numerous priming/start cycles. Terrible experience. Since then I prime the new filters from a clean container of diesel fuel obtained from the same source that I have used for many years. Starts right up. Another thing, I drain very little fuel out of the system. I have the new primed filter ready to go and as soon as I get the old one off, I screw the new one on. Works great for me.
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Old 02-07-2020, 11:33 PM   #6
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On my 2005 400 ISL i always prefilled my filters. On my current 2011 450 ISL do it the same way. It just makes sense to do it that way !
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Old 02-08-2020, 02:14 AM   #7
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Primer pump / fuel filter, water separator Unit that came on my Signature. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-08-2020, 06:39 AM   #8
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Thanks very much to all of you. I too was leaning toward Pre-fill but needed reassurance. Don, re: the Fumoto valve. I have read and heard about these and have been concerned about the old "what if" scenario of the valve opening while driving. Is this valve really secure? I'm willing to try but again I'm not all that comfortable. Thoughts guys?
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Old 02-08-2020, 06:57 AM   #9
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I watch the pros at the service center and they have a fuel filter filling bench

Why? Because they don't have time to mess around with the next truck waiting

The only fuel filters I ever installed dry were on engines with priming pumps

The best way is to fill the filters and cycle the start sequences to purge any air

Start the engine and log the change
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Old 02-08-2020, 07:00 AM   #10
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on the newer engines, 2013 to present with the high pressure fuel rail and small injectors you should install the filters dry. I have a prime pump on my fuel water separator so when i install the filter i take out the bleed screw on the top of the filter and pump the manual pump till fuel comes out, i install the bleed screw on the separator and remove the bleed on the main filter then pump some more till fuel is present, install that screw then cycle the lift pump twice and it fires right up. I've been doing it this way since Cummins went to the high pressure fuel rail and have never had an issue. the manual pump is under the red round cap on the fuel/water separator.
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Old 02-08-2020, 11:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THERAPY GUY View Post
Thanks very much to all of you. I too was leaning toward Pre-fill but needed reassurance. Don, re: the Fumoto valve. I have read and heard about these and have been concerned about the old "what if" scenario of the valve opening while driving. Is this valve really secure? I'm willing to try but again I'm not all that comfortable. Thoughts guys?
That's always something people ask about, but not a concern. I've been running the Fumoto valve for over ten years on three different coaches. It has a lock on the valve that prevents it from opening.

Do a search, they've been in use for years and I've never seen a report of one failing or opening.
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Old 02-08-2020, 01:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfix View Post
on the newer engines, 2013 to present with the high pressure fuel rail and small injectors you should install the filters dry. I have a prime pump on my fuel water separator so when i install the filter i take out the bleed screw on the top of the filter and pump the manual pump till fuel comes out, i install the bleed screw on the separator and remove the bleed on the main filter then pump some more till fuel is present, install that screw then cycle the lift pump twice and it fires right up. I've been doing it this way since Cummins went to the high pressure fuel rail and have never had an issue. the manual pump is under the red round cap on the fuel/water separator.
Both Cummins shops I have watched prefilled fuel filters

My 2016 Engine doesn't have a primer pump

What advantages do you see in cycling the fuel pump to clear air?
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Old 02-09-2020, 06:22 AM   #13
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Thanks Don. I've done some investigating and I think I'm going to install a Fumoto. Seems the one recommended by Fumoto is the FG2NS with the nipple. Larger opening for faster draining.
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