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Old 04-16-2019, 08:34 AM   #15
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If you turn the hot water faucet on and leave it run for a few minutes the summer loop pump will come on.
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:35 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptw View Post
Yes, it would cause the hot condition.

No, on damage other than unnecessary wear on the pumps.

Here is a better picture. You can't see the switch, but is above the label on top.

If it is not the bypass switch then read Norm's post above.
It that your special label on keep it off.......?
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:38 AM   #17
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It that your special label on keep it off.......?
I did not put that label on the box. Since I bought the coach new, either Newmar or Midway put it there.
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:43 AM   #18
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Label is more visible then the standard printing on the box.
Yes, summer loop light does come on when running hot water. I guess Iíll make a call to CS.
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:29 AM   #19
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My bypass switch is off so the suggestion about a stuck check valve makes the most sense to me. I got my hammer in hand, just need to know where I would find the valve?
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:50 AM   #20
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A couple things before you start hitting things with a hammer, it is not real easy to get to. We should be sure that you have a problem.

Have you been running the furnace?

By under the sink, do you mean directly under the sink or in the basement under the sink? Is your sink in the slide? There would not be any hoses going to the engine radiator in the slide, only for the heat coil of the furnace and the sink plumbing. Is that what you meant?

There are hoses that come out of the top of the Oasis unit and go to the distribution box. Those hoses will be hot nearly all the time. The engine coolant hoses go to the distribution box. The distribution box should be behind the back wall in the half bay near center on passenger side. That would be the location of the check valves.

Here is a drawing from ITR and picture of the inside of the distribution box.
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Old 04-16-2019, 01:44 PM   #21
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Here is a thread about the check valve issue.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/oasi...ff-370298.html

Message #8 shows a photo of the check valve and messages after that describe the procedure for tapping the end to see if it loosens up.

This was a temporary fix for the original poster but it appears to be a more permanent solution for us (6 months and still working fine)

Again, this is only a solution if you have determined that the zone 1 hoses under the kitchen sink are always HOT when NONE of your pumps are running. This problem occurs with the burner and/or the electric elements on.
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Old 04-16-2019, 02:20 PM   #22
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Thanks Norm for the info and the link I believe that's exactly the problem I'm having. We have the half cargo slide so it doesn't look like it will be easy to get there but I will try to tap it. I'll also contact Newmar and see if they will replace the valve under warranty. We are, of course, 2 months over the 1 year warranty period.

Thanks again,
Dan
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Old 04-16-2019, 02:44 PM   #23
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I am having the same problem. Extremely hot under kitchen sink. AC 1 & 2 is on the furnace is off, burner is off, air condition is on.
Not sure that I fully understand the Summer Loop and how it is supposed to work. Can someone explain please???
The system works by pumping fluid through the heat registers located throughout the coach. The system will continue to circulate the hot fluid through the registers even without the Furnace being on.The "Summer Loop" switch by-passes the heat registers and only heats the water.
No more heat under the kitchen sink!
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:06 PM   #24
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The system works by pumping fluid through the heat registers located throughout the coach. The system will continue to circulate the hot fluid through the registers even without the Furnace being on.The "Summer Loop" switch by-passes the heat registers and only heats the water.
No more heat under the kitchen sink!
Here is the description of the switch from the Oasis service manual. It is not a "summer loop switch". It is there to fill the system with fluid and should always be left off. Many people have used it temporarily when the summer loop pump has failed, to get hot water at the faucet. The switch turns on the two heat loop pumps.

"The bypass jumper (activated via a switch mounted on the top of the distribution module zone board) can be used in conjunction with a purge pump to initially fill the system with coolant. When this jumper is activated, the Loop 1 and Loop 2 pumps turn on and push coolant through the entire system. Once the system is filled and purged of air, the bypass switch must be turned OFF."
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:25 PM   #25
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Here is a thread about the check valve issue.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/oasi...ff-370298.html

Message #8 shows a photo of the check valve and messages after that describe the procedure for tapping the end to see if it loosens up.

This was a temporary fix for the original poster but it appears to be a more permanent solution for us (6 months and still working fine)

Again, this is only a solution if you have determined that the zone 1 hoses under the kitchen sink are always HOT when NONE of your pumps are running. This problem occurs with the burner and/or the electric elements on.
Good post Norm! I was trying to exhaust the easier potential solutions to Dan's problem. Hope tapping on it takes care of his problem.
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:58 PM   #26
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My new Essex came from the factory with the same problem. Kitchen sink got up to 90 degrees.
It was the check valve was stuck open. The tech "bumped the check valve" on Zone 1. that is the zone for under the sink. To get to the check valve you must remove the panel behind the electric reel from the passenger side. It is not a convenient place to have it. If you can still bend than you can climb into the compartment. Others have posted how to get to it better than I have. He had to replace a pump on his post, Good luck and iT IS the Check Valve.
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:01 PM   #27
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My new Essex came from the factory with the same problem. Kitchen sink got up to 90 degrees.
It was the check valve was stuck open. The tech "bumped the check valve" on Zone 1. ...
Bill,

Was that all the tech did or did he eventually replace the valve?

Anybody know how to access the valve on a 2018 Ventana 4369? I assume I have to take out the half cargo tray, remove the wall and then the panel to expose the valve? Or is it on the opposite side behind the electric bay?

Thanks,
Dan
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Old 04-18-2019, 06:38 AM   #28
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I assume I have to take out the half cargo tray, remove the wall and then the panel to expose the valve?
This is correct.
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