Community Forums

GUS2000 · 04-02-2023, 09:21 AM

this will be an interesting to see how those commands (horizon, normal, hitch) for that Sony camera could be managed from a different source to allow video to be displayed on another device..

BayRunner · 04-02-2023, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by evofxdwg

No, im pretty sure its not the same as mine. I dont have the 360 system. Only left/right/rear cameras. I have traced most of the wiring and camera/infotainment components under the dash and my rear camera does not use an RCA plug, it uses a Fakira RF coaxial connector and goes directly to the head unit. And I have observed the actual signals on the coax using an oscilloscope and Y-cable (although installation of the cable did mess up the impedance match and the picture while it was installed, I could see what the signal looked like).

The RV1090 will input NTSC or PAL formatted video from your n360 selector box. Glad that works for you. I could do the same for my switched left/right camera signal (since they are NTSC or PAL Video) but not the rear. And I don't really need to since my camera pix are all on the right 10" display and that's where I want to keep them.

The newer rear "Sony CCD" camera is not NTSC or PAL composite video (which is an analog signal). Its electrical interface is high speed digital messages. Not compatible directly with "video" or HDMI.

That’s interesting and good to know. Glad you were able to figure your camera system out.

evofxdwg · 04-02-2023, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GUS2000

this will be an interesting to see how those commands (horizon, normal, hitch) for that Sony camera could be managed from a different source to allow video to be displayed on another device..

Yes. So far my only possible solution is to leave the Xite in the system, powered up (probably drive it with a relay or solid state switch controlled by the new system) , but disable/disconnect all audio functions

The camera setup controls are on the left (main) Xite touchscreen, which I would replace with the Kenwood or Pioneer system. I cant find any way in settings to move that to the right screen. All I need to really retain are those three (circles) touch commands on the screen, which result in a message to the camera when changed (also probably on power up/initialization).

I thought about adding an HDMI switch with manual select of Xite Main or 2nd HDMI output and plug its output into the 2nd screen, which is also a touch screen. I may try just switching HDMI connectors to see what happens next time I get around to digging into the "rats nest."

Another approach is to open up the Xite and ID the chipset used for the HD camera system, and either build or procure (if available) a new transceiver and wire up my own mode selector switch. Thats a long shot of me ever getting it done.

Another approach is to open up the Xite and ID the board with camera function, and, if discrete or simple digital signals can be found to select horizon, normal, hitch and put in manual control for it. Problem is, that may also be a complex coded interface internal to the Xite.

Memphis · 04-11-2023, 12:01 PM

I wish I had seen your post before ordering mine! I was on the fence about getting the bigger display and decided against it thinking it would be too much of an obstruction on the voyager display. I ended up opting for the smaller size display. One additional add-on I installed was a co-pilot monitor, which seems to have been much-appreciated.

BayRunner · 10-31-2023, 04:10 PM

Revisiting this post as I am considering installing the Kenwood DNR1008RVS in my ‘22 Ventana. Before I pull the trigger, I am studying all of the wiring and especially how to wire and reprogram the Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control module.

Since I don’t cut OEM wires, the 24 pin wire harness from the existing Xite to coach is available from River Park. Useful in case you wish to easily return to stock.

Part # 125X90191HR02
Cost $10

BayRunner · 11-06-2023, 06:23 PM

Getting ready to replace the Xite unit for a Kenwood. I was doing inventory of the wires in my dash to determine what needs to be migrated over to the new head unit. On the 24 pin wire harness in the back of the Xite, the only wires actually used are:

- The 8 speaker wires
- The camera wire (RCA) for the 360 camera system
- The parking switch wire
- The“Remote on” wire (blue wire)

The blue “Remote On” wire has me a bit confused. What is it used for? The blue wire on the Kenwood is the “Antenna on” wire but the Kenwood does have a blue/white wire for “Power Control”. Does anyone who installed the Kenwood know what the remote on wire is supposed to connect to?

Memphis · 11-07-2023, 04:34 AM

I don't recall needing it in my '20 VT but usually your blue is for a relay to turn on an amplifier or other switched 12v accessory rather than having to retap your ignition circuit. I have been incredibly pleased with my kenwood setup. It is everything the X25 wasn't and so much more. The wireless car play / android auto is an absolute game changer.

PetesMH · 11-07-2023, 06:43 AM

I think that wire turns on the power amp. I was surprised to find that my BSS came new with one and I only found it by accident. It was buried under the dashboard and used speaker level inputs so it was not obvious.

BayRunner · 11-07-2023, 07:19 AM

Ahh, thank you both. I looked at my photos closer and see the the “Remote On” wire going into the Xite head unit is a solid blue, however it connects to a blue/white wire going into the coach dash. This should cross reference to he Kenwood power control wire which is also blue/white and is intended to power up a separate amp.

evofxdwg · 11-07-2023, 09:17 PM

(2021 Newmar Canyon Star 3927)
I have an XSNG3A Xite head and the blue/white wire labeled "remote on out" goes to a "Harman JBL" amplifier to control its on/off state. At least some of your 8 speaker wires probably also go to the amplifier. On mine, the front L and R speaker wires go thru the amp. But the rear L and R speaker outputs directly drive the speakers on the bedroom. Even though the amp is a 4 channel amp, they are not using it for the bedroom speakers.

If the blue/white wire is connected, you probably have an outboard amp. Im curious if you are going to keep it, drive the speakers directly from the Kenwood, or replace with another amp. At some point, I will have to make the same decision.

I have documented most of the infotainment wiring in my coach. It is not the same model Xite as yours and does not have the same camera system. If you want, I can email a PDF of the diagram to you. Send me a PM if you do.

BayRunner · 11-08-2023, 08:46 AM

Thanks for the info and offer for your wiring info. I think I now have a fairly good understanding of the head unit wiring in my ‘22 Ventana. There is most likely an amp buried somewhere in the dash for the front speakers, which is why I have a connected “remote on” (blue/white) wire. I’m not going to go digging for it because I’m just going to keep the amp like it is. If the amp is there then the front speaker wires are directed to it “after” the coach’s wire harness plug. I am building the wire harness that will go from the Kenwood and plug into the coach’s harness so I don’t want to disturb any of the coach wiring. I’m just waiting for a delivery today that includes solder seal butt connectors to complete the harness. BTW. Those new style Solder seal butt connects are great. Not sure if you are aware of them but they are longer heat shrink butt connectors that have solder in the middle. So when you use a heat gun to heat shrink, the solder in the middle melts onto the copper wiring for the bond. Much quicker than hand soldering.

PetesMH · 11-09-2023, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BayRunner

Thanks for the info and offer for your wiring info. I think I now have a fairly good understanding of the head unit wiring in my ‘22 Ventana. There is most likely an amp buried somewhere in the dash for the front speakers, which is why I have a connected “remote on” (blue/white) wire. I’m not going to go digging for it because I’m just going to keep the amp like it is. If the amp is there then the front speaker wires are directed to it “after” the coach’s wire harness plug. I am building the wire harness that will go from the Kenwood and plug into the coach’s harness so I don’t want to disturb any of the coach wiring. I’m just waiting for a delivery today that includes solder seal butt connectors to complete the harness. BTW. Those new style Solder seal butt connects are great. Not sure if you are aware of them but they are longer heat shrink butt connectors that have solder in the middle. So when you use a heat gun to heat shrink, the solder in the middle melts onto the copper wiring for the bond. Much quicker than hand soldering.

I have not had very good luck with those connectors and I’m not crazy about using a heat gun in such crowded quarters. I’ve used thes for years and recommend them highly. Simple, easy, quick and removable.

BayRunner · 11-09-2023, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PetesMH

I have not had very good luck with those connectors and I’m not crazy about using a heat gun in such crowded quarters. I’ve used thes for years and recommend them highly. Simple, easy, quick and removable.

Yea, those are good to use if you’re working in the dash. However, I still believe soldered wires are our best friend when dealing with stereo wires. I’m building my wire harness on a workbench so no fear of the heat gun there. The solder seal butt connectors are pretty much fool proof as long as the wires are prepped correctly. Many simply press the wire strands together or overlap them in the connector before heating. My opinion is this is not correct and allows the possibility of error. The wires should be twisted together with a small gap in the vinyl wire shield just as if you were hand soldering. When the solder seal connector is centered on the exposed copper wire and heated, then the magic is done and the results are exactly as if you hand soldered but a fraction of the time.

Scottmn · 11-10-2023, 01:50 PM

Just bought a 2023 Dutch Star 4369. I’m not very familiar with the system. Used it in a 400 mile drive. What is wrong with the system, that makes people want to switch it out and use something else?