Head Light Wiring Locations

[Sky_Boss]

I'm trying to find a place I can back probe my headlight wiring to see what voltage I have at the light socket. Problem is that there are no exposed points I can do that so I was thinking of any connector blocks as a possibility. So, I am looking for a wiring diagram for my MH. Any one know where I can get it?

BTW...

Attached is a photo of my chassis fuse and control panel...would any of the connector blocks be a likely place for my lights? The connectors offer me a place I can use a multimeter prove to measure voltage.

[PDR John]

Can't you just unplug the headlight? Or, are you trying to test under load?

[Romeo]

When I was dealing with that problem I was not able to find a place that was exposed and close enough to the headlight bulb to ensure an accurate bulb voltage reading. I decided to pull the headlight bulb from the headlight housing and use a fine tip probe in and around the bulb socket (with the bulb in place and the headlight on). That worked for me and showed me that I had inadequate voltage at the headlight.

I replaced the wiring, sockets, bulbs and installed relays.

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by PDR John

Can't you just unplug the headlight? Or, are you trying to test under load?

Hello John. Yep...the test is suppose to be under load to measure voltage drop.

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by Romeo

When I was dealing with that problem I was not able to find a place that was exposed and close enough to the headlight bulb to ensure an accurate bulb voltage reading. I decided to pull the headlight bulb from the headlight housing and use a fine tip probe in and around the bulb socket (with the bulb in place and the headlight on). That worked for me and showed me that I had inadequate voltage at the headlight.

I replaced the wiring, sockets, bulbs and installed relays.

I'm hoping to get schematics to verify how it is currently wired. I've been told that I should already have relays but when tracing the cable bundle as far as I could I didn't see an obvious relay set up.

Where did you go to find a good 12V source? I'm thinking I could run from the POS and NEG lugs in the fuse bay.

[Romeo]

Originally Posted by Sky_Boss

Where did you go to find a good 12V source? I'm thinking I could run from the POS and NEG lugs in the fuse bay.

In the 2000 Dutch Star there is a full 12v supply lug and Neg lug in the side of the fuse/relay cabinet under the hood, above the generator.

That is where I tied into my 12v and Neg ground for my new headlight wiring. I also installed the new headlight relays in that cabinet.

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by Romeo

In the 2000 Dutch Star there is a full 12v supply lug and Neg lug in the side of the fuse/relay cabinet under the hood, above the generator.

That is where I tied into my 12v and Neg ground for my new headlight wiring. I also installed the new headlight relays in that cabinet.

THANKS!!!

That equates to my fuse/relay cabinet that is on the side of my coach where I took the picture. It has the same lugs that I thought I would be using. My lugs are just above the green circuit board where all the red wires are meeting.

I'm looking at 1 relay for the low beams and 1 for the high beams per the suggestion of Daniel Stern. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html

Where he uses a generic ground point, I would think it just best to run back to the neg lug. Does that make sense? He also recommends a minimum 14 gauge but suggests 12 gauge. Your location is a bit more convenient because I will have to find a path through the compartment into the front and slack for the slide. Because that is a bit long I will stick with the 12 gauge.

I would still like to find the schematics to verify if there are a couple places in my fuse/relay compartment that I can back probe what I have. If I can get a needle probe into the light socket I can use the 12V lugs for the other side of the readings for voltage drop. Those lugs are as close to the battery posts I will be able to get. LOL

The other issue I will have to deal with is that relays will disable the DRLs. Daniel makes a harness that moves the DRLs on my low beams down to the amber running lamps. Since I am US registered it isn't required but I like them. For Canadians...it is a MUST because DRLs are required.

[Romeo]

Originally Posted by Sky_Boss

...I would still like to find the schematics to verify if there are a couple places in my fuse/relay compartment that I can back probe what I have. If I can get a needle probe into the light socket I can use the 12V lugs for the other side of the readings for voltage drop. Those lugs are as close to the battery posts I will be able to get. LOL

The other issue I will have to deal with is that relays will disable the DRLs. Daniel makes a harness that moves the DRLs on my low beams down to the amber running lamps. Since I am US registered it isn't required but I like them. For Canadians...it is a MUST because DRLs are required.

I don't understand why you would have to check the voltage (back-probe) any place other than at the headlight plug. I didn't get much help at all from my schematics, and I had a good set of drawings.

I went ahead and disconnect my DRLs because I could not understand how they were wired in and how to reuse them. It got too complicated so I just pulled the DRL relay and ignored them. I now do what I did for years... manually turn on my headlights when I see that I am on the type of hiway where Daytime Lights would be helpful.

I also was somewhat concerned about having DRL's using my expensive replacement headlight bulbs. I installed the upgraded bulbs that Daniel Stern recommended. They were not easily found in Spokane and more expensive than the auto-store headlight bulbs.

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by Romeo

I don't understand why you would have to check the voltage (back-probe) any place other than at the headlight plug. I didn't get much help at all from my schematics, and I had a good set of drawings.

I went ahead and disconnect my DRLs because I could not understand how they were wired in and how to reuse them. It got too complicated so I just pulled the DRL relay and ignored them. I now do what I did for years... manually turn on my headlights when I see that I am on the type of hiway where Daytime Lights would be helpful.

I also was somewhat concerned about having DRL's using my expensive replacement headlight bulbs. I installed the upgraded bulbs that Daniel Stern recommended. They were not easily found in Spokane and more expensive than the auto-store headlight bulbs.

On the back probe I am trying to measure the voltage drop but I am having a hard time finding a place on the H9 bulb socket to get a probe in. I'm looking for a "needle" probe end for my multimeter.

Daniel has a separate harness for moving the DRLs from the low beams to the driving lights. I prefer them on but may go "old school" because, to be honest, I run with my head lights on during the day anyway. It would be something to consider if I sell it along with insurance break for DRLs.

The H9 bulbs only come in one flavor. There are no brighter versions. I carry 2 with me all the times.

[Romeo]

Actually, now that I am thinking about it, I would be surprised if you needed to upgrade your headlighting system. I would think that with the newer style of headlights you wouldn't have the same problem as those of us with the older headlights.

Are you suffering from lack of headlighting at night?

[Romeo]

For a "needle probe" can't you use a paper clip or something similar. I just attach an alligator clamp lead to the meter probe and the clip a paper clip (or thin wire) to the other end of the lead's alligator clamp, and push it into the headlight plug. You could also use a needle in place of the paper clip and push the needle into the wire behind the headlight plug.

[Sky_Boss]

Originally Posted by Romeo

Actually, now that I am thinking about it, I would be surprised if you needed to upgrade your headlighting system. I would think that with the newer style of headlights you wouldn't have the same problem as those of us with the older headlights.

Are you suffering from lack of headlighting at night?

In short...I think my headlights SUCK! I have verified they are aimed correctly but I need to run my fog lamps at night to get a good feel for the lines. My model uses Hella 90mm kit car, halogen lights (separate high and low beams modules). My Hella Lights :: 90mm Halogen Headlamp Classic Modules

The good news is that if I can't get these to work well, I can upgrade to Hella 90mm xenons. The bad news...$400+ for EACH side. So, that is why I am trying to be so picky and verify I actually have a voltage problem before I go too far. Even at that, the Xenon lights require good current/voltage to get started but less to run so I might still need to do the relay upgrades if I find I have low voltage and the relays don't solve my problem.

[siggyd]

To test the voltage at the socket you can always take some small pins or needles and poke right through the wire and then clip on the probes.
I also have some very sharp pointed probes for that job.
Siggy