Thanks, 007. We had pretty different setups -- the exchanger he ended up with is similar to what I had to begin with. The dash appears different, but I do appreciate the link and research!
I finished this project up last night. It took every bit of 7 hours to complete, though I think I could get within the Newmar specified time of 5 hours if I had to do it again (which I hope I never have to!) I thought I'd provide an overview of the steps in case another MADP (07-09 Essex should be similar) needs to replace the dual squirrel cage fan motor in their heat exchanger. Note: There is NO way the motor can be removed without taking the whole exchanger out -- don't even bother. There's screws in the bottom, back, side, etc.
- Remove the 8 center dash panel screws and air brake knob pin/knob.
- Remove the two bottom drawers.
- I had to label and disconnect several harnesses to get the faux wood grain panel out of the way enough to work. Your mileage may vary on this, but be careful - the panel is not infallible.
- You will see a sheet metal enclosure -- left side, right side and a plate on the top. Remove the two screws holding the top plate to the right side. You may have to gently shove aside dash ductwork and wiring to get to the back screw.
- While still working from the top, extend your go-go-gadget arms and remove the bolt holding the heat exchanger to the floor bracket on the right side.
- Move to the floor/drawer area. Remove the left side bracket bolt to allow the exchanger to rotate upwards. There's hardly any room because of the steel plate, but with the little room you have, reach your hand behind the steel plate on the right and remove the sheet metal screw holding it to the floor bracket. A right angle power screwdriver will save you some agony.
- Once the bottom screw is removed, flex the sheet metal to the left (careful of the ductwork!) -- yes, flex it; it will not permanently bend! Give yourself enough room to get your arm allllll the way to the back of the right side of that sheet metal and remove the two 4" screws holding the sheet metal to the wooden support found in the center of the dash. This is a challenge. Again, a right angle power screwdriver will reduce the time and profanity required to get past this step.
- Now the sheet metal is free from bracing. You must now finagle and flex the sheet metal up and around the exchanger to get it pulled out from the dash (which can only be done corner-to-corner; it's too wide to come straight out.)
- With that gone, you'll have full access to the exchanger. Get the rags out and stuff them under the supply and return hoses on the back right side of the exchanger. It will get messy!
- Move the clamps off each hose -- this bit is easier said than done as you can't entirely see what you're doing. A couple of tips though -- leave the rubber elbows on the core; they're practically fused onto the copper and removing is very difficult. You don't want to wrench on it and crack the core. Work from where the plastic supply/return lines enter the rubber elbows. Tip #2: Slide the clamps to the LEFT, leaving them on the rubber elbow. This will make re-installation MUCH easier as you'll be able to get a grip on them with pliers. You can only get one hand in there at a time (at least, I could) so if you remove the clamps to the plastic side, they'll just spin around when you're trying to grab them on reinstall.
- The hoses should pop right off once the clamps are out of place.
- At this point, you can cut the wires to the exchanger and pull the unit out of the dash. Try to keep the inlet/outlet tipped upwards... again, it's messy!
- Once out and on your bench, remove the two edge screws on the bottom front. You can then release the top tabs with your fingers and simply pull the manifold (with duct) off the exchanger, exposing the core.
- There are 2 screws on each side. 2 on the back (note: you will have to peel back the sealant tape around the inlet to access), 2 on top of the motor and 2 that are somewhat hidden underneath. Finally, remove the 4 or 5 screws on the endcaps for the squirrel cages. The cover should now lift off!
- Before pulling the motor off, which should be free now, take note of the position of the squirrel cages within the housing. The cages are adjustable and whether you replace them or move them over (I opted to replace) - you need to get the alignment right to avoid hitting the endcaps or either side of the housing.
- Replace motor and put everything back together!
Some projects I enjoy -- like converting the 3 heat pumps to the new comfort control center 2 system. This was not an enjoyable project. Nobody has ever worked on my coach except me, apart from alignments, but if I could overcome that level of anal retentiveness, I think I would have cheerfully paid $500 in labor to have this done.
On the upside, there is some satisfaction to doing things yourself and knowing, without a doubt, they were done right.
Good luck! I did take some pictures, which I'll post later.
Hope it helps.
LindyT your detailed description sure will make the pictures mute.
register gives everyone problems and not a easy removal as the others.
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