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Old 05-20-2019, 09:24 AM   #57
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All kinds of ideas are posted and not one of them working for OLD HIKER. I'd assume it's time for a professional person to look-test-cure the system. Yeah it costs a pocket full but maybe the frustration of it all will simmer down. There has to be a cure out there somewhere.
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Old 05-20-2019, 09:46 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn View Post
Yes I am totally aware of the zone temp seeing temperature at255 is a bit odd.
Currently I am running off a dometic thermostat. As we were leaving for Alaska last summer my eplex system decided to throw an error that disabled the whole system. I had to bypass AC, heater, water pump fortunately I had just installed an alternate tank level system and I had upgraded and bypassed the inverter control a while ago.
I have an appointment at newmar 8/1 to see if they can troubleshoot. So tempted to just upgrade to silverleaf
The below is unrelated to OP's problem but of interest !!
For those with oddball remote sensor readings:
If the oddball inside temp displays are on Dometic units have a look at the Freeze Sensor on each unit. Later models have a small sensor in shrink tubing pushed into the fins. Apparently the sensor can short to the fins if the shrink tubing is pierced. It shows up falsely as a remote temp sensor inaccuracy (as opposed to a freeze sensor failure). It looks like corrupt data on the comm bus.
see here:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/cont...lp-363201.html
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Old 05-20-2019, 09:48 AM   #59
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If this eplex system is so temperamental you would likely be better off to modify your existing system to the 5 button dometic thermostat as you can get it to run your ac unit . You could also use dometic remote sensors for the other 2 ac units. At least with a standard dometic setup a lot more help is available including factory dometic help.The main problem I see with this idea is you would need to be experienced enough to run or modify the existing wiring. At any rate good luck with which ever way you go to get your ac units working.
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:14 AM   #60
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Conversion to a Dometic 5 - button is not that difficult.
1) 5 - button thermostat is connected to the telco style comm cable. It is powered by the 12vdc that is in the rooftop unit and carried on the comm cable.
2) a remote sensor is required for each rooftop unit .... they are readily available. At the rooftop the remote gets plugged into the Dometic board(s). Drop each remote into the the warm air return duct (at the rooftop unit) and fish it out the nearest inside ceiling return vent (there are about 10 of them in a Newmar). Fasten the sensor inside each ceiling vent near the filter element. It will be as accurate as mounting it on the wall since it senses the return (warm) air in that room and doesn't pick up extraneous heat from a hot/cold wall.
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:15 AM   #61
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Amen. I read a lot of threads on this forum and have to say I scratch my head at the use of initials that have meaning to some but those like me just wonder.
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:43 AM   #62
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AC’S

It comes down to someone tracking the path of the power and your rig is a challenging one to learn on.
I feel that the quality is there but the only one who can help is a current owner of that model or a factory tech.
So sorry to hear that it’s not a simple fix.
I find issues and so far have been lucky.
There a diagnostic steps and these are the things that have to be preformed without skipping anything. If you could get your hands on a manual you could start there.
Don’t cut, rewire or short anything. Be careful of voltage!
Hang in there buddy and use beer for bate lol
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Old 05-20-2019, 12:52 PM   #63
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This is where I stand now. Newmar customer service rep Jeff has been extremely helpful. I have checked and know that I am getting 12 vdc to the module 33. There is a 4 wire phone cable that goes from module 33 to the board on the #1 a/c. Connectors were replaced at the a/c due to corrosion. I am checking the correctness of these today. If the new connectors were put in correctly, then Jeff at Newmar feels it's the board on the #1 a/c. Hopefully know tomorrow.

I did state earlier in this thread that I spent several weeks on the phone with Silver Leaf until they stopped returning my calls. We hadn't discussed cost at that time. They did a 2007 Newmar Essex that was explained on this forum about 1 year ago. This is why I was committed to replacing the Eplex. Maybe Silver Leaf felt it was too difficult or costly to do another unit. Don't know why they stopped communicating with me.

I am extremely appreciative of all the input this has generated and have tried several suggestions, all had no positive results. 2 WEEKS without a/c has been exhausting. I have installed the biggest portable a/c unit that Lowes carries. It can barely keep the temperature below 90! I also have a tower fan and an oscillating fan running constantly in just the front part. I even have the bedroom door closed!

I have been a full timer for 8 years and this is the first issue that hasn't been fixed in a day or two. I have owned this unit since 2007. I have remodeled the inside with residential furniture which is much more comfortable and far less costly then the RV crap!

Thanks again for all the input!
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Old 05-20-2019, 01:23 PM   #64
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Some coaches have a power managemnt computer in them. It is in place to keep all of the air conditioners from coming on at the same time. Mine was located under the bed in my coach and it went bad. The 120 voltage comes into the box and times the power to AC. MIght look for something like that.
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Old 05-21-2019, 05:37 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldHiker View Post
This is where I stand now. Newmar customer service rep Jeff has been extremely helpful. I have checked and know that I am getting 12 vdc to the module 33. There is a 4 wire phone cable that goes from module 33 to the board on the #1 a/c. Connectors were replaced at the a/c due to corrosion. I am checking the correctness of these today. If the new connectors were put in correctly, then Jeff at Newmar feels it's the board on the #1 a/c. Hopefully know tomorrow.



I did state earlier in this thread that I spent several weeks on the phone with Silver Leaf until they stopped returning my calls. We hadn't discussed cost at that time. They did a 2007 Newmar Essex that was explained on this forum about 1 year ago. This is why I was committed to replacing the Eplex. Maybe Silver Leaf felt it was too difficult or costly to do another unit. Don't know why they stopped communicating with me.



I am extremely appreciative of all the input this has generated and have tried several suggestions, all had no positive results. 2 WEEKS without a/c has been exhausting. I have installed the biggest portable a/c unit that Lowes carries. It can barely keep the temperature below 90! I also have a tower fan and an oscillating fan running constantly in just the front part. I even have the bedroom door closed!



I have been a full timer for 8 years and this is the first issue that hasn't been fixed in a day or two. I have owned this unit since 2007. I have remodeled the inside with residential furniture which is much more comfortable and far less costly then the RV crap!



Thanks again for all the input!
Glad to see you are getting somewhere. When my com cables had corrosion we cut them off and replaced with new and added dielectric grease to prevent further issues.
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Old 05-21-2019, 06:18 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by carl.swoyer View Post
Glad to see you are getting somewhere. When my com cables had corrosion we cut them off and replaced with new and added dielectric grease to prevent further issues.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05109-Tec...gateway&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Ele...ateway&sr=8-18

Good to have if in Florida for more than a Year - no mater what the electrical issue.

Best of Luck,
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Old 05-22-2019, 10:53 AM   #67
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re: 3-offline ACs

Pardon me barging in unannounced. Hey folks...Art here... I picked this thread off that little blurb IRV2 sends out...thought it was worth a read. Maybe learn something new. But in reading it I also found we may have seemed unconcerned or dismissive. I feel kinda bad about that. Its just not the case. At the time we spoke we didn't have a path forward for any future ePlex conversions. Its going to require a specialized group/ company to just only do this. 'Overwhelming' scratches the surface! Yet, what more was there then? Well, at any rate--we see this problem on an unrelated system. *EG* However, I understand the two multiplexing systems to some degree and can say they both share a basic design principle: efficiency. Both ePlex and Silverleaf recognize the efficiency of the ACs drop significantly below 40'. At any point, if ANY external sensor (inner room temps OR ext. ambient(s) hit 39' the AC compressors are idled. Just as seen in load shedding. If I've read correctly, one of the sensors is feeding back a 255. "Wide open". On most systems, this is very cold on a scale that stops at -459'. What is that, Nebraska on Groundhogs day? This will shut down all ACs. My guess is that replacing the sensor that feeds the system that 255 will normalise the system. (A person can jump that sensor with any resistor, 50~10kOhm.) cheers Art Silverleaf Electronics sunny Albany, Oregon
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Old 05-22-2019, 11:34 AM   #68
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Pardon me barging in unannounced. Hey folks...Art here... I picked this thread off that little blurb IRV2 sends out...thought it was worth a read. Maybe learn something new. But in reading it I also found we may have seemed unconcerned or dismissive. I feel kinda bad about that. Its just not the case. At the time we spoke we didn't have a path forward for any future ePlex conversions. Its going to require a specialized group/ company to just only do this. 'Overwhelming' scratches the surface! Yet, what more was there then? Well, at any rate--we see this problem on an unrelated system. *EG* However, I understand the two multiplexing systems to some degree and can say they both share a basic design principle: efficiency. Both ePlex and Silverleaf recognize the efficiency of the ACs drop significantly below 40'. At any point, if ANY external sensor (inner room temps OR ext. ambient(s) hit 39' the AC compressors are idled. Just as seen in load shedding. If I've read correctly, one of the sensors is feeding back a 255. "Wide open". On most systems, this is very cold on a scale that stops at -459'. What is that, Nebraska on Groundhogs day? This will shut down all ACs. My guess is that replacing the sensor that feeds the system that 255 will normalise the system. (A person can jump that sensor with any resistor, 50~10kOhm.) cheers Art Silverleaf Electronics sunny Albany, Oregon

Nope .... that was a comment by another poster. The person with the problem has not observed 255. The person with the problem has commented "BTW, the zone temperatures have no basis with reality. Nor do the set points!" No specifics. Maybe relevant and maybe not.


But, thanks for chiming in! All help is appreciated on the forum.
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Old 05-22-2019, 11:48 AM   #69
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Pardon me barging in unannounced. Hey folks...Art here... I picked this thread off that little blurb IRV2 sends out...thought it was worth a read. Maybe learn something new. But in reading it I also found we may have seemed unconcerned or dismissive. I feel kinda bad about that. Its just not the case. At the time we spoke we didn't have a path forward for any future ePlex conversions. Its going to require a specialized group/ company to just only do this. 'Overwhelming' scratches the surface! Yet, what more was there then? Well, at any rate--we see this problem on an unrelated system. *EG* However, I understand the two multiplexing systems to some degree and can say they both share a basic design principle: efficiency. Both ePlex and Silverleaf recognize the efficiency of the ACs drop significantly below 40'. At any point, if ANY external sensor (inner room temps OR ext. ambient(s) hit 39' the AC compressors are idled. Just as seen in load shedding. If I've read correctly, one of the sensors is feeding back a 255. "Wide open". On most systems, this is very cold on a scale that stops at -459'. What is that, Nebraska on Groundhogs day? This will shut down all ACs. My guess is that replacing the sensor that feeds the system that 255 will normalise the system. (A person can jump that sensor with any resistor, 50~10kOhm.) cheers Art Silverleaf Electronics sunny Albany, Oregon

Why in the world would a designer do that when they can't be assured an alternate heating system is available? I'd rather have heatpumps running at reduced efficiency than have no heat when it's 39 degrees outside. My standard Dometic system will still run (and produce heat) at 34 degrees.
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Old 05-23-2019, 06:18 AM   #70
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Why in the world would a designer do that when they can't be assured an alternate heating system is available? I'd rather have heatpumps running at reduced efficiency than have no heat when it's 39 degrees outside. My standard Dometic system will still run (and produce heat) at 34 degrees.
On later model units even without Silverleaf when the Heat Pump becomes inefficient the unit will go to the furnace mode. My 2002 Mtn Aire did that as well as both of my Dutch Stars, 2015 and 2018.

If it's 34* and the heat pump is just barely working one might as well light candles for heat inside of the coach. Home units have heat strips built in that come on for the same reason.
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