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05-31-2014, 01:32 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ft wayne Indiana
Posts: 479
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Just for a test open the drain on your black tank then have someone flush the toilet. Watch your hose and see if it is draining faster if it is you have a vent problem if not drain and rinse the tank good before tearing into the drain valves.
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05-31-2014, 02:45 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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If it was a vent issue, opening toilet while draining should provide more air into tank and flow would dramatically increase. There have been a number of people tracing slow draining to the fact that when openings are made in the black tank for installation, the large disks of plastic that drop into the tank are left and can block the drain. Back flushing with the cap with a hose fitting or section of clear drain line with hose fitting can help blow it out of the drain path.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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05-31-2014, 03:14 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Elgin, SC
Posts: 291
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I was told by a campground manager to allow the black tank to be at least 3/4 full before dumping...
I was a newbie as I was leaving the black tank value open on extended camping in the park...
He said the terds will settle to the bottom of the black tank & cause all sorts of problems...
So now 3/4 full, pull the black value, fill commode Full & flush, then pull the gray value for & leave black value open for a small flush into the values.
Then I close both values...
He also said a good idea to fill black tank 1/2 full before you hit the highway as it slouches around & washes the black tank... (gets the crap off of the sensors)...
__________________
2001 Dutch Star 3666 (Workhorse gas)
Lugoff, SC
KE5FTF...Bob & Kathy
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05-31-2014, 03:31 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181
If it was a vent issue, opening toilet while draining should provide more air into tank and flow would dramatically increase. There have been a number of people tracing slow draining to the fact that when openings are made in the black tank for installation, the large disks of plastic that drop into the tank are left and can block the drain. Back flushing with the cap with a hose fitting or section of clear drain line with hose fitting can help blow it out of the drain path.
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Where do I put the hose to blow out a potential piece of plastic? Would it block grey and black?
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05-31-2014, 05:42 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181
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Did not know there was a cap like this. I will get one and try it. Thanks allot for the pictures and your advice.
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05-31-2014, 06:07 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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I personally like the section of pipe better. With the cap, it's very messy when it's time to unscrew it. Even with slide valve closed, you might get more than a bucket full according to how much volume between valve and cap.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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05-31-2014, 07:30 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Posts: 164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadtraveler
I took the vent off the roof to the grey water tank, put a garden hose in the shower and let it run for 6 to 8 minutes, drained it and it worked much better. I put the vent cap back on added water and it did not drain well at all. I then took the cap back off and it still did not drain well. Called Newmar customer service and there is a vent to check under the bath sink (which I did) and out side of that he said it may be the valves where you pull the handles to drain and stop. I said both of them and he said maybe and to take it to someone and have it checked out. He said it should drain in 10 minutes or less. 2/3' real fast and the last bit would take a little longer. I am thinking about using a snake in the outlet drain and see if that does anything.
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What you're describing, to me, is a vent pipe that extends above the roof too far — when you replace the vent cover, it's blocking air from going into the vent. Remove the cap and measure the inside depth of it just to the bottom of the opening. Then measure the amount of vent pipe sticking above the roof. If the measurements are greater than ¼" of each other, trim the vent pipe by ¼" to ½"; no more than that at one time. Then replace the cap(s), fill & drain again and see if that helps. Also, I x2 the suggestions for clearing the vent pipe(s) as well. You can't have TOO much air flowing into the tanks!
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05-31-2014, 07:33 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181
I personally like the section of pipe better. With the cap, it's very messy when it's time to unscrew it. Even with slide valve closed, you might get more than a bucket full according to how much volume between valve and cap.
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Hydro Flush 90 degree is the way to go? So cap off the bottom run the hose wide open and if stuff comes back out get a bucket or plastic bag to let it drain in? If there is plastic of some sort in there it would be hard to get out wouldn't it? Thanks again!!
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05-31-2014, 08:19 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraciesDaddy
What you're describing, to me, is a vent pipe that extends above the roof too far — when you replace the vent cover, it's blocking air from going into the vent. Remove the cap and measure the inside depth of it just to the bottom of the opening. Then measure the amount of vent pipe sticking above the roof. If the measurements are greater than ¼" of each other, trim the vent pipe by ¼" to ½"; no more than that at one time. Then replace the cap(s), fill & drain again and see if that helps. Also, I x2 the suggestions for clearing the vent pipe(s) as well. You can't have TOO much air flowing into the tanks!
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One pipe is flush and the grey water pipe is up 1/2 to 3/4" from where it actually comes through the roof. Could cut the grey water pipe flush to match the other. Sure it would not hurt. Also I guess stick a hose down the vents and run water to make sure they are clear? Being a new unit you would think it would be but who knows?
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06-01-2014, 07:57 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 146
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Once your problem has been solved, I would suggest using a product such as Odorlos to aid the process of keeping the black tank functioning efficiently. We have used this product for the last 7-8 years and have no issues with sensors, drainage or odors. As for flow, our tank can be emptied and flushed in less then 10 minutes. Just a suggestion...
__________________
G & K Marshall
2004 DSDP 3810-2010 Ford Edge
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06-01-2014, 08:10 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
New Horizons Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 481
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I believe I have read on this forum of all kinds of construction debris occasionally getting into the tank draining plumbing. I recall one member finding a 90 degree 2" fitting lodged in his drain line. Once it was removed the tank(s) drained as they should. Sounds like you have an obstruction in a common section of your plumbing for the grey and black tanks. Certainly could be the plastic hole discs from cutting the tanks. Has to be something in there. If it's new and under warranty I would attempt to enlist assistance from the dealer/manufacturer. Stay after it, you will get it straightened out.
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06-01-2014, 11:22 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pullin' Chocks
I believe I have read on this forum of all kinds of construction debris occasionally getting into the tank draining plumbing. I recall one member finding a 90 degree 2" fitting lodged in his drain line. Once it was removed the tank(s) drained as they should. Sounds like you have an obstruction in a common section of your plumbing for the grey and black tanks. Certainly could be the plastic hole discs from cutting the tanks. Has to be something in there. If it's new and under warranty I would attempt to enlist assistance from the dealer/manufacturer. Stay after it, you will get it straightened out.
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It really does seem like there is an obstruction of some sort in the line. I am going to snake it here in a few minutes. If that does not help it will go in to an RV repair shop. I have called Newmar customer service and they took all my info and put it in the computer for warranty work.
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06-16-2014, 10:37 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 270
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Holding Tanks
I filled my tanks with water and drained them and they drain fairly good at first and then slow way down. The grey tank keeps draining and draining to the point I shut it off and leave. I had mentioned this before and had a response from Luv2go and was curious if the pipe coming out of the tank is level, sloping down toward the drain or sloping up. I noticed mine is sloping up before it makes a turn to the drain and then slopes down. It has two pieces of approx. 1/2" plywood for shims. I would like to take one off and see what it does but i might throw the other pipe going to the drain off. Is your s the same? Thanks
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