Community Forums

tommar · 06-22-2017, 03:20 PM

As a newby Dutch Star owner (1998) one of the first things I discovered is that the so-called salesman switch doesn't work, It's labeled STORE and USE. Nothing happens when this switch is pressed. All 12v systems remain on and also the inverter. So, I went to the battery bay... and there's no battery disconnect switch. A very surprising discovery. As a former boater, such a switch is mandatory for mariners. (1) It prevents your batteries from going dead while at sea. (2) It can stop/prevent a fire in the event of a short. I'm planning to install one. I'm surprised that Newmar doesn't do that. While I'm on my soapbox, why isn't there a master control panel for both 120v systems and 12v? In my boat, the master panel had meters that told me what the voltages were, 120v and 12v plus amp loads. To me, this is a big safety issue. While on shore power on my boat the 120v meter plus ammeter saved my bacon more than once. A shore power receptacle had a loose connection; the voltage was low and the amps were high.... so when I checked the shore power cable, it was way hot. Turned everything off, and after it cooled down, the marina handyman tightened the connections. After that, everything was fine. Just my two cents worth!

Elbridge Price
1998 Newmar Dutch Star
No toad yet
Waco, TX

Dsallach · 06-22-2017, 04:21 PM

Congratulations on your new rig. As far as your salesman switch is concerned, that switch operates a solenoid. Most people never use the switch and it is not uncommon for people to bypass that solenoid if a) the solenoid goes bad or B) they are tired of accidentally bumping the switch and having no power.
As for why the company didn't install certain things, I guess you would have to ask them.

Skip426 · 06-22-2017, 04:30 PM

If your DS is a diesel pusher, ( back in coaches of our vintage DS name was used on gas and diesel chassis coaches) , then the disconnect relay , is on the back wall of the power cable bay. Top right, yellow circle .
Behind the battery tray on the chassis frame , there are master fuses ( 2 -135 amp unit) , one for the run of coach battery cable , the second for the chassis battery . The only system not run through these two big fuses is the power cable to the starter.
I'll agree that a central location for fuses would be nice ; I've found 10 locations and I'm not sure I've found them all.

Some info you could add when asking questions , would be chassis manufacturer , and engine type .

EDIT: BTW. You can set up a signature line with your coach info so you don't have to type it in every post ; by, clicking " Quick links " below your welcome message, then " Edit Signature " type in the info , and click " Save " at the bottom of the page , and the info will automatically appear below all your posts. As mine does below this one.

RKins · 06-22-2017, 04:38 PM

If your coach doesn't already have one you should buy a Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C to protect your coach. With that comes a display that can be remotely mounted and it displays everything you're asking for.

vsheetz · 06-22-2017, 04:49 PM

Ditto on the recommendation for a progressive industry EMS. A must have to protect the coach. It qualifies the power before gating it through to the coach. Also provides a two minute delay to power on - protects against repeated on/off in quick succession.

tommar · 06-22-2017, 06:21 PM

Wow! Thanks for the shore power heads up. Guess I'm going to get one of those Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C units. I did look it up. Still don't know how to turn the inverter in my 1998 Dutch Star off. It was pointed out to me that it would be helpful to add that my Dutch Star is on a Spartan Chassis; it is a Cummins 6.8.3 mechanical injection; is 66.7k miles young. Is there a way to turn off the inverter? Right now, in three days of non-use, the house batteries get drained dead. I'm not able to plug in at this time when storing. I hope that changes soon. Also with the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C can I use a dog bone or adapter so I can plug in via a 120v extension cord to run fridge and battery charger/conditioner?

Lug_Nut · 06-22-2017, 06:29 PM

Well, if you are referring to a 15/20 amp power outlet through an extension cord, the charger and frig okay, but that's it. Definitely no air conditioner.

Peter

dennis45 · 06-22-2017, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tommar

Wow! Thanks for the shore power heads up. Guess I'm going to get one of those Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C units. I did look it up. Still don't know how to turn the inverter in my 1998 Dutch Star off. It was pointed out to me that it would be helpful to add that my Dutch Star is on a Spartan Chassis; it is a Cummins 6.8.3 mechanical injection; is 66.7k miles young. Is there a way to turn off the inverter? Right now, in three days of non-use, the house batteries get drained dead. I'm not able to plug in at this time when storing. I hope that changes soon. Also with the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C can I use a dog bone or adapter so I can plug in via a 120v extension cord to run fridge and battery charger/conditioner?

Lots to learn for sure. First thing, your DSDP is a land yacht, not meant for the water.

Here are a couple of documents that may help acquaint you with the systems in you coach. Happy Trails, keep the Shinny Side Up.

tommar · 06-22-2017, 07:32 PM

Thanks for the pdf downloads. I've downloaded the two files. Of course I know my 1998 DS is not a boat! It would sink like a stone!

But... the Coast Guard regs pertaining to systems DO make sense for motorhomes too. If you've ever seen the master electrical panel on a boat--read yacht--you would understand my point. All labeled per Coast Guard requirements...