How I FIXED My Electric Slide "Bolts"

[Winepress]

So I know I’m late to the party. This mod is for the kitchen and bedroom slides? I have an 18 DS, I suppose I need to check these motors, unless Newmar changed something for 18.

[daveward]

Originally Posted by SLS

See pictures below for some more visual.......

So...what I believe is the most important point is in image #2 above where the original mounting hex-head-bolts appear the be about 5/16" by about 1". Correct me if wrong but these are not sufficiently robust and can come loose over time, hence the wonderful idea for a fix by SLS.

Edit...I thought the images would show here...I'm referring to #2 of the four SLS images on page 1 of the thread

[bruceisla]

Question:


Why use the smaller Nordlock washers between the housing and the serrated nuts?


as opposed to:


skip the smaller washers ... install studs with Loctite, nuts facing bracket, Large Nordlock, bracket, Large Nordlock, nut facing bracket. Torque to sandwich nuts/washers/frame.

[SLS]

Originally Posted by bruceisla

Question:


Why use the smaller Nordlock washers between the housing and the serrated nuts?


as opposed to:


skip the smaller washers ... install studs with Loctite, nuts facing bracket, Large Nordlock, bracket, Large Nordlock, nut facing bracket. Torque to sandwich nuts/washers/frame.

I like how you simplified the entire process (skip the smaller washers ... install studs with Loctite, nuts facing bracket, Large Nordlock, bracket, Large Nordlock, nut facing bracket. Torque to sandwich nuts/washers/frame) THANK YOU!!!!!

The reason I used the small Nordlock washer against the aluminum boss on the motor was just a bit of insurance because if the nut tried to loosen the Nordlock washers would tighten up keeping the nut from coming loose to the aluminum boss. Watch their video on how the Norlock washer works. AND, If you look at pictures of my bosses. They were not a flat surface because of the slotted bracket they were tighten into. I wanted the washer to also give a flat surface for the nut to tighten against.
I did install studs with loctite (green wicking) after I torqued stud 10 to 12 ft lbs. Then used small Nordlock washer and used serrated nut that would be upside down (or face mounting surface) so that the serrated part of the nut would contact the SP Nordlock properly against the slotted bracket mount. You now use the SP Nordlock washer because it is larger in diameter to allow the most surface area against the slotted mounting bracket. Re-install the motor assembly with studs back into slide through the slotted bracket. Put SP Nordlock washers and serrated nut on the otherside. Now when you torque to 24ft lbs the torque is against the NUTS on both sides of the slotted mounting bracket and the aluminum bosses have nothing to do with the assembly staying tight.

If this doesn't help or my posts don't answer all your concerns. PM me your phone number and I will call you.

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by SLS

I like how you simplified the entire process (skip the smaller washers ... install studs with Loctite, nuts facing bracket, Large Nordlock, bracket, Large Nordlock, nut facing bracket. Torque to sandwich nuts/washers/frame) THANK YOU!!!!!

The reason I used the small Nordlock washer against the aluminum boss on the motor was just a bit of insurance because if the nut tried to loosen the Nordlock washers would tighten up keeping the nut from coming loose to the aluminum boss. Watch their video on how the Norlock washer works. AND, If you look at pictures of my bosses. They were not a flat surface because of the slotted bracket they were tighten into. I wanted the washer to also give a flat surface for the nut to tighten against.
I did install studs with loctite (green wicking) after I torqued stud 10 to 12 ft lbs. Then used small Nordlock washer and used serrated nut that would be upside down (or face mounting surface) so that the serrated part of the nut would contact the SP Nordlock properly against the slotted bracket mount. You now use the SP Nordlock washer because it is larger in diameter to allow the most surface area against the slotted mounting bracket. Re-install the motor assembly with studs back into slide through the slotted bracket. Put SP Nordlock washers and serrated nut on the otherside. Now when you torque to 24ft lbs the torque is against the NUTS on both sides of the slotted mounting bracket and the aluminum bosses have nothing to do with the assembly staying tight.

If this doesn't help or my posts don't answer all your concerns. PM me your phone number and I will call you.

That's how I understood it. Thanks!

[ptw]

This looks like a good fix. Newmar should take a look at this one because Loctite alone is not the solution to the problem.

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by ptw

This looks like a good fix. Newmar should take a look at this one because Loctite alone is not the solution to the problem.

After looking at some of the pictures, it appears the bolt length has been changed over the years. I would need to remove mine to check but I think mine are long enough to almost (but not quite) bottom in the threaded bosses. Some pictures I've seen appear to have shorter bolts. But, mine has no lock washers ... just large flat washers and Loctite.

[SLS]

Originally Posted by bruceisla

After looking at some of the pictures, it appears the bolt length has been changed over the years. I would need to remove mine to check but I think mine are long enough to almost (but not quite) bottom in the threaded bosses. Some pictures I've seen appear to have shorter bolts. But, mine has no lock washers ... just large flat washers and Loctite.

The reason I went with studs is because you will remove one load factor from the mounting bosses. With bolts you expect the aluminum bosses to handle the twisting motion of the motor and the mounting to the brackets. The stud will also bottom out into the aluminum boss and create a much stronger boss. Now the mounting is all against the two flange nuts and the twisting motion is all on the aluminum bosses.

Bolts can not accomplish the above.

I've seen some post by you on other threads I follow and I know you like things that are done correct. So "Just Do It"

Take the plastic cover off
Cut the wire ties
Unplug the connector
Take out four mounting bolts
Slide assembly off shaft

Insert four new studs, Nord Lock wash, and flange nut on all four bosses
Slide motor back on into bracket
Put nuts and Nord Lock washers on other side, Torque to 24 ft lbs.
Re-connect and wire tie wires up.

YOU ARE NOW "FIXED"........ IT is not hard to do!!! "Just Do IT!!!!!

Love, SLS

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by SLS

The reason I went with studs is because you will remove one load factor from the mounting bosses. With bolts you expect the aluminum bosses to handle the twisting motion of the motor and the mounting to the brackets. The stud will also bottom out into the aluminum boss and create a much stronger boss. Now the mounting is all against the two flange nuts and the twisting motion is all on the aluminum bosses.

Bolts can not accomplish the above.

I've seen some post by you on other threads I follow and I know you like things that are done correct. So "Just Do It"

Take the plastic cover off
Cut the wire ties
Unplug the connector
Take out four mounting bolts
Slide assembly off shaft

Insert four new studs, Nord Lock wash, and flange nut on all four bosses
Slide motor back on into bracket
Put nuts and Nord Lock washers on other side, Torque to 24 ft lbs.
Re-connect and wire tie wires up.

YOU ARE NOW "FIXED"........ IT is not hard to do!!! "Just Do IT!!!!!

Love, SLS

I'll probably do it at the next 2 week stop (around Sept. 1). I like the idea. My motors are different (2005 Essex). I'll post when I actually get to try it.

[bydnar]

Originally Posted by SLS

...IT is not hard to do!!! "Just Do IT!!!!!

First of all, I like the proposed solution. It's the best one I've read about so far.
Unfortunately, the blanket statement of "It is not hard to do" is apparently not based on seeing all possible installations. On my unit (in signature) the slide gearbox cannot even be seen without mirrors and a contortionist. The only way I can even check for tightness is by braille (wrench in one hand, the other hand feeling around and guiding the wrench). A trap door in the floor of the slide, after taking out the sofa bed would be the easiest way to access the gearbox and motor.

Thanks SLS for documenting your solution. It's the best one going.

[SLS]

Originally Posted by bydnar

First of all, I like the proposed solution. It's the best one I've read about so far.
Unfortunately, the blanket statement of "It is not hard to do" is apparently not based on seeing all possible installations. On my unit (in signature) the slide gearbox cannot even be seen without mirrors and a contortionist. The only way I can even check for tightness is by braille (wrench in one hand, the other hand feeling around and guiding the wrench). A trap door in the floor of the slide, after taking out the sofa bed would be the easiest way to access the gearbox and motor.

Thanks SLS for documenting your solution. It's the best one going.

bydnar,
I understand that access to some of these motors (including my bedroom slide) may be hard. My thought process was if you are removing the OEM bolts to loctite them you probably have access to do my FIX.
I guess I also come from the "Pay me now or Pay me (a lot) more later". I also try to stay away for the "On the Road" break downs.
Thanks for the kind words.

[Rvlegaleagle]

Very interesting FIX to a problem that was supposedly already fixed.

Will this fix work on the "full wall slide" on a 2019 Bay Star 3401? Will be using the coach 9 months out of the year with many ins and outs of the slides.

Wonder if Newmar will do your FIX at a factory pickup?

Thanks

[SLS]

Originally Posted by Rvlegaleagle

Very interesting FIX to a problem that was supposedly already fixed.

Will this fix work on the "full wall slide" on a 2019 Bay Star 3401? Will be using the coach 9 months out of the year with many ins and outs of the slides.

Wonder if Newmar will do your FIX at a factory pickup?

Thanks

I can not say that it will work on your Bay Star because I have not work on that model.
I will say, if you have the drive motor/gear box that has the "Square Drive" as in my pictures. I would definatly think it would be a "Fix". My full slide is hydraulic and my kitchen and bedroom slide use the motor drive/gearbox in the picture.

SLS

[time2bbq]

Originally Posted by SLS

Yes the motor needs to come out. It is very easy. Just extend your slide a bit to release tension on bolts, unplug the wire connector, and your ready to start the fix I described above.
PM me your phone number if you need more help.
SLS

SLS, first of all thank you for all of the great info you have provided on this topic! I have a 2014 DSDP 4364 I read all of the posts on the slide motor issues and checked mine. Long drivers side slide was a little loose on both motors. The kitchen slide was also a little loose. I tightened all of those bolts. Then I checked under the bed. WHOA!! All four tabs on the motor had broken off completely. My question is do you know the procedure on how to remove this motor? It is in the middle and appears to have the shaft running through it. To the rear of the motor, on the shaft, there looks to be some sort of possible union built into the shaft. Is this to separate the shaft into two pieces? Has anyone had to do this project on their own? I will be using your stud technique on all of my motors. I need to find a replacement motor for the bedroom one first. Any source of supply that you know of for these motors?